Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Lola701]

I don’t think Marc Bohan was creatively bankrupt. History is unfair to him because his Dior is largely unknown. He stayed there from 1960 to 1989. He is a major designer for Dior. Beyond having invented the oblique Dior logo, he expanded the brand and he helped Dior transition in many decades.

I genuinely don’t think that Dior would have existed if it wasn’t for Bohan. 1960’s and 1970’s fashion in spirit were the opposite vision of what a Dior silhouette was. So it’s almost as if he had to build a language from scratch through the spirit of Dior.

after reading that mary grace was basically fired and not given a chance to renew at Dior. I expect her to 100% be in the offices at Kering right now.

Mary Grace to McQueen?

I think that John was at Giv for like 6 seasons before being promoted. Why did JWA do loewe for 20 seasons before being promoted ?

I think the Jeff Koonsing of Dior probably wont work.

I wouldve given him Celine bc the Jeff Koons works on top of Hedis look. Then of course Hedi Slimane to Christian Dior Femme and Homme.

You are comparing eras that are totally different.
John took over Givenchy from Hubert not so long after LVMH took over. Most the agents of influence of Bernard Arnault are totally different now.
Delphine is responsible for most of the creative shifts in the group since Raf Simons at Dior. The influence of Anna Wintour has decreased for example.

JWA at Loewe and Dior is happening because of the desire of Delphine. When John took over Dior, Sydney Toledano had to work with the decision made by Bernard and influenced by Anna.

And JWA taking over Dior is a « reward » for the miracle he did for Loewe much like Phoebe having LVMH invest in her own brand is a reward for the miracle she did for Celine.

JWA happens to be very ambitious so the project seems fitting for him.

 

[youthinasia]

Francesco Risso out at Marni. 10 years is way too long 𝘭𝘰𝘭.

 

[Marc10]

 

[vogue22]

About time!

 

[Norden]

He made an absolute mess of marni

 

[oioioi]

My fear is who is going to be appointed next.. I'm always confused by Renzo's appoointments (apart from Glenn at Diesel, Margiela).

 

[helmutnotdead]

who wants some f*cking champagne? 🥂

 

[GivenchyAddict]

10 years ?? I don’t remember one collection or campaign or anything…😩

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

10 years ?? I don’t remember one collection or campaign or anything…😩

so many nightmares

 

[Gazillion]

Only Consuelo can save Marni. No one else can. Period.

 

[Lola701]

I would love from the ex-Missoni guy to get the position but in reality, the brand needs someone who respect the ethos of the brand and who is not obsessed with making it another design project.

 

[Thefrenchy]

Friends from Milan told me Corriere della Sera is speculating about his replacement being Nicolo Pasqua letti

 

[Rigida]

Only Consuelo can save Marni. No one else can. Period.

I don't mind her daughter too, Carolina. I love her brand (Plan C)

 

[carla56]

Friends from Milan told me Corriere della Sera is speculating about his replacement being Nicolo Pasqua letti

Pff he is soooo beige. Zzzz Marni is funny bourgeois, mix of prints, colours… all those young italian designers are monochrome, beige, black, nude…

 

[oioioi]

Renzo is obsessed with Pasqualetti, he was offered Jil by Renzo but apparently thought it was too large a brand/scale to focus on whilst doing his own brand. Some other gossips, but too specific to go into.
I would've liked to see Jil and Marni under women again, not that good designers are based on genders, but I guess for me both those brands represent different ends of the spectrum of types of working women or types of women in those niche.

 

[Avonlea]

Pff he is soooo beige. Zzzz Marni is funny bourgeois, mix of prints, colours… all those young italian designers are monochrome, beige, black, nude…

This is so true. What happened to Italian fashion? It used to be so colorful, full of beautiful prints and interesting fabrics.

 

[oioioi]

This is so true. What happened to Italian fashion? It used to be so colorful, full of beautiful prints and interesting fabrics.

There's still Etro, No21 by Alessandro dell Acqua, Missoni. Versace and Pucci are colourful, with prints and fabrics but we need to omit beautiful and interesting..

 

[bc collector]

I'd like to know why Renzo Rosso is wising up all of a sudden, after years of very contentious appointments (and I include JG for Margiela in the lot, sorry for the Galliano-freaks in here)...is he not listening to Anna anymore? Has he got a better choice of consultants on the line? I mean, the guy is obviously clueless himself but both Martens at Margiela and Bellotti at JS make sense to me, if only hypothetically...
As for Marni, my beloved, lost, mistreated Marni, I doubt the Castiglionis, either mother or daughter, want to keep Rosso at less than a mile of distance at this point and they have every good reason to. I want to see what Pasqualetti is soon delivering for his menswear debut at Pitti Uomo before I make up my mind on him...but his womenswear is interesting and I can see points of contanct between him and Consuelo. I hope the rumour is true at this point, I have no idea who else might want to rebuild the brand form the depths of pretentiousness Risso has pushed it to.

 

[jeanclaude]

The circus is over!!

 

[oioioi]

I get the impression Renzo sometimes does an appointment release post or pre buzzy event but its maybe just my bad memory.
There've been so many OTB collaborations with H&M, Glenn did a H&M collaboration immediately post Y/Project (wonder if it was to get his name to a broader audience), then couple months later Margiela announcement.
Maybe something happens after Pitti Uomo?