Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Lola701]

First of all, America has been the largest and most important market for high fashion (European or otherwise) since the 1920s. Jean Patou ruled the 1920s with an American clientele. Why do you think the French were even designing so much sportswear at that time? It was for the Americans.

This is why some of the best Dior and Balenciaga archives IN THE WORLD are in Texas, Philly, Chicago. It was the American heiresses who were the top clients and who were buying the most extravagant models. The 1950s couture boom was funded by American industrialists via their wives.

America’s answer to Vionnet, Dior and Balenciaga was Charles James who Balenciaga once praised as the “only one in the world who has raised dressmaking from an applied art to pure art.” His words, not mine.

America’s answer to Cardin was Rudi Gernreich who was actually more radical, innovative, and influential.

It also had Bonnie Cashin who is probably one of the most innovative designers of all time. Her clothes were so well made that Hermes sold them at their stores in Paris. Ghesqueire, Phoebe, JW Anderson have all knocked off Cashin at least once.

America could not have had an Yves Saint Laurent because it had Halston and Geoffrey Beene who were more technically advanced and skilled. Certainly their clothes are more modern. Especially Beene who could have cut circles around Alaia.

And America did have its “invasion.” It’s literally called the “Battle of Versailles.”

America has had plenty of visionary designers:

Charles James, Claire McCardell, Halston, Geoffrey Beene, Bonnie Cashin, Rudi Gernreich, Isabel Toledo, James Galanos, Adrian, Giorgio di sant Angelo, Pauline Trigere, Kos van den Akker, Mary McFadden, Zoran, Shamask, Yeoh Lee, etc.

But I think it’s more a question of brands or branding than real talent.

When you compare the ratio between influential American designers and actual heritage brands, it’s very sad.

Ralph Lauren may represent a certain idea of an American way of life but not at all of US creativity.

It’s a bit like cinema in a way.
Hollywood has created some extraordinary talents with daring POV but it image has unfortunately been about blockbusters/fast food-ish films.

French cinema is a lot more confidential anyway. People rush to see Fast and Furious but French cinema is celebrated for championing indies projects. That’s because of great marketing and I must say gatekeepers.
A Korean movie that wins the Oscar will still be more successful in France than a French movie that wins the Palme d’Or.

But back to fashion, i’ve always found that concept of American Sportswear a bit reductive…Glamour is an American concept after all.
When I discovered the brilliance of Adrian, I definitely was sad that his name or heritage wasn’t around more.

 

[Kennnnn]

I always admired the quality of Donna Karan (Collection) clothing, much of which was produced in 7th Ave, at least up to the early 1990s i think. The Row seems to be the inheritor of that kind of streamlined, modern American luxury - a look that I think has really trickled down to the street in recent years.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I always admired the quality of Donna Karan (Collection) clothing, much of which was produced in 7th Ave, at least up to the early 1990s i think. The Row seems to be the inheritor of that kind of streamlined, modern American luxury - a look that I think has really trickled down to the street in recent years.

I forgot Donna!

 

[Kennnnn]

Donna used to have a massive store in Tokyo... this was years ago. It was really beautiful, the essence of quiet luxury. An aunt of mine was diagnosed with cancer about 10 years ago, and I wanted to gift her something cosy to wear to her chemotherapy appointments. All I could think to get her was something from Donna, and I found just the perfect cashmere shawl there.

 

[Drusilla_]

I think Marc is capable of anything, its just his brand's current state that may have people think other wise.

Same - Marc absolutely has the fun-kitsch aspect of Lagerfeld-era Chanel in him so I think he'd bring a sort of spiritual continuity to the brand, and he also has a certain edge that Virginie lacks, and, let's not forget, a good hand with accessories. I'm not a fan of the Z-ified Heaven line, actual 00s Marc was so much better both in the mainline and in Marc by Marc, it's a shame that the brand acts as if it never existed.

That said, I would love to see what Nicolas can do at Chanel, this year marks 10 years since he took the LV job so leaving to go somewhere even more exclusive to do couture, would be quite the exit. I've really enjoyed his later collections over the pandemic years, those insane pannier dresses (like Jung Hoyeon wore to I think the Critics' Choice awards?) were precient about the emphasis on the hips.

 

[FashionFanatico]

Bally appoints Simone Bellotti as new Creative Director

After the brand separated from designer Rhuigi Villaseñor in early may, Bellotti will now take over the management of the design studio, the Swiss label announced on Wednesday.

The designer worked for Italian fashion house Gucci for 16 years before joining the Bally design team last year. Before joining Gucci, the Milanese also held senior positions at Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta and Gianfranco Ferré.



fashionunited.de

 

[eugenius]

The “Mean Girls” quotes don’t pique my interest, but I’ll say “Stop trying to make Bally happen.”

 

[fashionista-ta]

Marc Jacobs at Chanel could also be an interesting proposition. Albeit his designs lately have been quite confused, he does have the skills and imagination to push the house codes forward and create buzz, and yet maintain simple and elegant clothes. Marc Jacobs collection clothes pre-pandemic have always been romantic, simple, and very well made.

I had heard from an interesting source that Marc was the original pick by the Wertheimers to succeed Lagerfeld and that they had already begun training him in all the ins and outs of the of the ateliers before Lagerfeld died so that Marc could hit the ground running when he started.

Either this wasn't the case (although my source adamantly believed it was) or, somehow, the deal fell through and they decided to go with Virginie instead.

But regarding Marc's current state, I would not blame LVMH as if they've been screwing Marc over. He's lucky they haven't sold the busines.

Fortunately their current strategy has allowed them use his mid-life crisis to turn MJ into the new Gen Z Michael Kors but who knows how long that will last.

Sad to say but I think Jacobs is past his prime.

I know Chanel has been Marc's dream job forever, but despite his very solid performance at LV (and his legacy living on with their highly successful artist collabs), I'm skeptical. He's talented, but not that talented. I'm no fan of Karl, but he was a genius, and I'm just not convinced Marc is on his level. Maybe Marc does his best work at heritage labels though.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Does anyone here seriously see Chanel hiring a celebrity designer? Unless they want to do a total revamp of the brand, that would make no sense. Chanel is way too big of a company and too far into the "heritage" of it all to make such a drastic change hiring someone to design with a different lens. It's not a brand to be made into caricature of itself whatsoever.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ I thought it already was a caricature of itself

 

[Deleted member 7575]

^ I thought it already was a caricature of itself

Right?!

Look up caricature in the dictionary and you'll find a picture of Lagerfeld standing next to some costumey rehash of the same tweed suit.

 

[tourbillions]

Since we are already talking personal wishes i would love to see thom browne at chanel or sarah burton (would love to see what she'll do in a metiers d'art collection).

 

[LadyJunon]

Bally appoints Simone Bellotti as new Creative Director

After the brand separated from designer Rhuigi Villaseñor in early may, Bellotti will now take over the management of the design studio, the Swiss label announced on Wednesday.

The designer worked for Italian fashion house Gucci for 16 years before joining the Bally design team last year. Before joining Gucci, the Milanese also held senior positions at Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta and Gianfranco Ferré.

View attachment 1231131

fashionunited.de

The full article for WWD:

Bally Names Gucci Alum Simone Bellotti Design Director

Bellotti's first collection will bow in September. Creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor exited the Swiss house earlier this month.

MAY 31, 2023, 6:00AM

MILAN — Bally has named Simone Bellotti design director of the Swiss brand.

The appointment follows the exit earlier this month of Rhuigi Villaseñor, who held the title of creative director and had joined the company in January last year.

Bellotti’s first collection for Bally will be presented with a show during Milan Fashion Week in September.

The designer quietly joined Bally last October after a 16-year tenure at Gucci. Previously, he held senior design positions at Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta and Gianfranco Ferré, boasting an experience in both both ready-to-wear tailoring and accessories — the latter category Bally’s core business.

Chief executive officer Nicolas Girotto said Bellotti’s work over the past nine months with the Bally team will allow him to “continue to interpret and rejuvenate our signature codes in the context of today. Simone’s passion and appreciation for Bally’s heritage, coupled with his extensive industry experience, will enable us to continue to execute on our vision of creating timeless and elegant products that uphold our legacy of craft and stand the test of time.”

Bellotti lauded Bally’s “extraordinary legacy. The house’s unique Swiss heritage, coupled with its beautiful history rooted in a pioneering spirit and relentless pursuit of excellence, is a powerful inspiration.”

Milan Fashion Week in September will also see the debut of former Valentino designer Sabato De Sarno at Gucci, following the exit of Alessandro Michele last November.

Bally is headquartered in Caslano, Switzerland, and has 1,500 employees worldwide.

It has more than 320 stores worldwide and 500 multibrand points of sale spanning across 60 countries. Its e-commerce platform serves 61 countries.

Menswear accounts for 60 percent of revenues and Girotto is set on growing the womenswear category, originally Bally’s core business.

Shoes account for 40 percent of sales, followed by accessories, which represent 35 percent of the total. Ready-to-wear makes up the remaining share.

While declining to provide a sales figure, as per parent JAB Holding Company’s policy, year-to-date sales rose 20 percent compared with 2022.

As reported, adding buzz to the brand, Academy Award-winning actor Adrien Brody is designing capsule collections to be unveiled in January next year.

I don't know why, but the picture of Bellotti creepy me out a little...

 

[perhydrol]

I don't think they know what to do with the brand anymore, but let's see.

 

[youthinasia]

that was very quick

 

[eugenius]

Antonioli says: "Stefano immediately demonstrated a strong creativity and a clear vision for Ann Demeulemeester. He represents the DNA of the brand with an eye to the future."

That should've been the criteria for selecting any new designer, but they went w/ that LDSS trash instead, and look where that got them.

 

[Lola701]

So they are doing now what they should have done in the first place….
This industry sometimes!

 

[IndigoHomme]

One question: Ann Demeulemeester doesn't will show a collection this june? Or will be a co-ed runway for september?

 

[fenty]

I think it'll be co-ed

 

[Tchi]

Do people still care?