Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Grets]

The Kim Jones/Matthew Williams/Virgil Abloh era in fashion has been on the decline for some time. I wonder who would replace Kim Jones at Dior or Fendi if it happens.

 

[Kimihiro]

After the Fendi clusterf*ck, does Kim still have a chance at the big houses? He did blew it, no?

Few years back people were expecting him to get Dior womenswear.

 

[Kennnnn]

However if not Burton, i think givenchy needs someone fresh who could produce desirable merch. it wasnt really such a big task for the past designers as Givenchy sells itself already. So it took some really really bad talent and bad decisions from the suits to arrive to where they are at now. maybe someone like alexandre mattiussi be great for givenchy.

Alexandre Mattiussi is a good candidate for Givenchy. But he would really be great for Gucci. Ami strikes a really good balance across tailoring, sportswear and casual separates.

 

[perhydrol]

After the Fendi clusterf*ck, does Kim still have a chance at the big houses? He did blew it, no?

Allegedly, he was one of the candidates for the Givenchy position, but I don't think it's gonna happen after what he has done to Fendi.

 

[AlbertNoir]

I read that WWD interview with Michael Burke from earlier this year. He is the chairman and overseeing several brands including Fendi, Celine, Givenchy, etc...

“A number of the Fashion Group houses now have enough depth and enough heft to be more into risk-taking when it comes to people. That means hiring people, training them and getting them ready for the biggest jobs in the group,” he said.
...
“At any given time, there’s one or two houses that are in need of repositioning, rebuilding, re-dimensioning or redirecting, and with what Sidney has achieved, we now have more freedom to do that.”

The 2 houses most in need of repositioning are Givenchy and Fendi. Considering Fendi has lost its top 3 spot to Celine. Loewe is probably on track to outperforming Fendi, if they aren't already.
Fendi has failed to have an it bag or it shoe or it anything. Sure some influencers have carried the Fendi First bag 3 years ago, but it's forgotten about now by the consumer. What's keeping Fendi afloat are the re-edition SATC baguettes and the Peekaboo. I'm surprised LVMH couldn't secure Alessandro Michele

The fact with AM and Fendi was that he wanted total control, but they wouldn’t get rid of Silvia who controls menswear (and who IMO was behind fendi best collections for womenswear in the period between Karl and Kim), so no agreement

 

[Frederic01]

Pierapolo Piccioli should go to Fendi. He would be a massive success there, especially since the accessories are already strong and commercially successful, so he can focus solely on clothes, which at the moment are a non-event.

He also has experience with Haute Couture, he is Roman so he understands fundamentally the know-how and traditions, and he can bring the menswear up to scratch. It's perfect.

Givenchy may be a more alluring offering for him though considering the prestige of the brand and the opportunity to do something completely new and without pressure....

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Let’s bring Vauthier to Fendi (I need him somewhere at this point. 😂)

 

[Lola701]

Alexandre Mattiussi is a good candidate for Givenchy. But he would really be great for Gucci. Ami strikes a really good balance across tailoring, sportswear and casual separates.

Alexandre comes from Givenchy (he worked under Oswald Boateng and did the menswear collections between OB leaving and RT taking over) so I don’t think he take over…Even more considering how big his brand has become recently.

I’m still all for Sarah Burton (as I guess that Haider is out of the discussion) but I think that maybe they should give the job to a LVMH prize winner or contestant.

The fact with AM and Fendi was that he wanted total control, but they wouldn’t get rid of Silvia who controls menswear (and who IMO was behind fendi best collections for womenswear in the period between Karl and Kim), so no agreement

I found it so disrespectful of him.
Silvia is the heart of Fendi and I think Delfina being there is a plus too.

@Frederic01 i agree about him taking over Fendi (even if im still not sure tbh) even if the perfect candidate would be Fabio Z!
But if PPP takes over, I think he should be appointed CD with Silvia on all lines.

Silvia has that very progressive thinking that is necessary. I would be terribly pissed to see another parade of Big gowns.

 

[tourbillions]

Let’s bring Vauthier to Fendi (I need him somewhere at this point. 😂)

id love him at anyy house... celine, givenchy, fendi, gucci, balmain

 

[GivenchyAddict]

^ Ideally Tom Ford but i think he can do well at Fendi and let Silvia brings the fun.

 

[Wolkfolk]

I agree with Lola about Haider at Givenchy; he seems to make the most sense technically. But can he deliver in accessories, which I believe Givenchy needs to make a mark again? He already has a celebrity and industry following, which could benefit the brand significantly. There's a Parisian elegance to his aesthetic, but it's also distinct. Itcould help Givenchy become current again on a global scale while maintaining its desirability. And he can so beautifully do both couture and menswear. But they should start small ! However, they should perhaps start small and let the fashion speak for itself again.
At the same time, I don't understand why they don't tap into the pool of fresh and talented individuals from the LVMH Prize for their houses. Some clearly need a big name at the helm, but what made LVMH a true powerhouse was the gamble Arnault took on new talents with strong visions to revive iconic houses. It's up for debate, of course, but Galliano or Marc became superstars because they led these huge maisons. On the other hand, it was their irreverence that made the houses interesting again. I think we are all quite tired of star designers; we need fresh perspectives. And suits who are willing to take risks.

Vauthier at Tom Ford would be excellent, but can he actually do menswear?

I would love to see Silvia take charge at Fendi. Maybe someone like Maximilian Davis could bring something interesting under her direction. She really embodies the soul of the house, and I don't think removing her would be a good move at all.

I don't think AM should join a big house, to be honest. What he's doing with his own brand is impressive. He stays in his lane with no pretension but great confidence. I admire his evolution, even if his clothes don't excite me much. I'm not sure he's versatile enough to lead AMI and another big brand.

It's hard to imagine Celine with a different direction than Hedi's. He has shaped the brand more than any of his counterparts at their own brands, even more than Demna. It will probably take Demna's successor a year to completely erase what he's built. There's such a feeling of fatigue. But I don't feel it with Celine, for now.

A wild idea: Tisci would be an interesting choice for Gucci. He could generate buzz, bring back a certain sexiness, and he's an amazing merchandiser who can create a whole universe. However, his tenure at Burberry showed that he might be creatively limited at the moment. If he were to take over Gucci, we'd need more than just lazy "streetwear" influences. But it will never happen and anyway, I still want him taking over Versace one day.

 

[gallianostan]

At the same time, I don't understand why they don't tap into the pool of fresh and talented individuals from the LVMH Prize for their houses.

is this talent in the room with us right now? i can't think of a single prize winner or finalist whose work has merited that kind of investment lmao

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Did anyone say Riccardo at Cavalli cuz that would be fun

 

[Creative]

I really hope Haider, Vauthier, Burton and Tisci stay away from any big job at a “couture” fashion house.

 

[tourbillions]

yes lets have more mcgirrs and de sarnos... As much as id like new and fresh names, these days all houses only care about how their choice will influence social media. If they pick a "fresh face" its because they either have a good following or its because they are well connected. Its not about talent anymore so between a veteran vs a talentless fresh face chosen because of social media, id always choose the veteran at the big couture house. These fresh faces can handle smaller houses and develop their couture sensibilities there first.

 

[Creative]

We can’t recycle the same names over and over… it’s exhausting. Ackermann was a thing 16 years ago… Fashion needs to go on.

If not, you have things like Burberry under Tisci, which was next level boring. I rather have a little bit of amusement seeing Gucci going downhill than witnessing another chapter of Tisci. No thanks.

Btw, seeing Vauthier and talent in the same sentence was kind of unexpected.

 

[Olaffo]

^ As much as I’d agree with most of it, I wouldn’t say Haider was a thing 16 years ago which we saw when he did exquisite HC for JPG. Burberry under Tisci was a misery only because of laziness of Gobetti who thought he will repeat success of Givenchy by installing a designer who refused to progress and push forward his own aesthetic. Vauthier has exited fashion conversation long time ago…

 

[yslforever]

is this talent in the room with us right now? i can't think of a single prize winner or finalist whose work has merited that kind of investment lmao

Thebe Magugu

 

[gallianostan]

Thebe Magugu

yeah... i don't think so lmao

 

[Kanzai]

Fashion needs to go on

Fashion needs to go to...nowhere ? I don't expect Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior, Gucci etc becoming as big as Apple, Google, Alibaba, Microsoft,...

Fashion corporations can never reach the market capitalization of technology corporations and many other sectors. Nor should they ever be. And I can still see a bunch of fashion houses not affiliated with Kering or LVMH still supporting and desiring talents like Haider. I am not a shareholder of fashion companies by any means, hence I couldn't care less about their business operations and revenues etc, irdgaf. Just throw out good collections, ad campaigns,...and i will be happy