Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

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While his Burberry wasn't as successful as people anticipated, it's very obvious that it's due to the fault of executive meddling (namely the pricing) and I imagine that the Arnaults are intelligent enough to recognise that. If they pivot Givenchy towards a brand structure and positioning like 00s Balenciaga, Givenchy by Daniel Lee could work very well.
 
Creative said:
I’m just asking for no more silly streetwear, that trend has been demodé for at least 3 years now 😭

I agree, Lola , not a huge fan of Daniel here but that’s the only option that makes kind of sense.
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Tbh, even if there weren’t really « on theme » the looks he did for the Met Gala, specially the one on Naomi, could have worked perfectly for Givenchy. He seems to be complete as a designer (menswear, womenswear, accessories and dressmaking).
Thefrenchy said:
I love the idea... Although...

He is at its best when he has full control over a brand, from design to image, he has proven that at Bottega Veneta. He gets a lot of heated reactions here at tFS but like it or not, he made BV the hottest brand while he was at the helm. Everything made sense from his collections to how he showed them. It looks like he has way less control at Burberry, and you can tell as the whole thing looks like he's suffocating -- and I suspect he is not getting along so well with the top execs (which allegedly contributed to his demise at Bottega...).

Now I don't know how willing would LVMH be to take on this kind of profile, as they are known to be hands on with their brands.

There is also the issue of all these "Burberry doesn't sell" articles that don't play in his favour... I'm always baffled when the responsibility is put entirely on the shoulders of creative directors, when there are multiple key positions within a house that have the responsibility to ensure that products are selling and these people are never questioned... but I digress... I doubt one would want to poach a designer who's been giving a very mid performance creatively along with poor sales to save a fashion house that's currently suffering.

I would have believed in him for Givenchy... But only if he hired back his footwear and LG designers from Bottega. LVMH would want to kick off a new Givenchy era with a it bag or a it shoe, and I'm sure they'd have been capable to produce that. I think he would have really benefited from the craftsmanship and savoir-faire of the house. You see the difference between what BV provided to him vs at Burberry now.

In the end, it's a pity he took on Burberry. Everyone knew that MW would end up getting fired he should have waited some extra time because he would have been great for the job imo...
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He was at LVMH with Phoebe so IMO, he is more equipped to evolve in the LVMH environment.
Yes, I think he could be good there only if he has total control indeed but I wouldn’t want him to touch on the branding at Givenchy for example.

I think he has that ability to design real desirable RTW.

Tbh, Lee either at Fendi or Givenchy would be great for me. That being said, Fendi HC would need to be back to Haute Fourrure. I really like his work and his aesthetic. It can be gimmicky sometimes but there’s something very approachable about his woman.
 
gallianostan said:
daniel lee at givenchy? yeah now we're just picking names out of a hat aren't we
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I love his taste personally. I think he is quite an interesting creative director. There’s something real and approachable in his vision of women (and men). He is not afraid of commercialism.
He seems to be confident in his vision. He needs however to be at a brand where he will be supported by the suits but also a brand that has a tradition in making clothes.

He is trying to push craft through embellishments at Burberry, much like he did at BV and maybe they would work better with a more refined Atelier.

I lost faith in Haider so, I promised myself to not throw his name around anymore.
 
Im gonna quote Regina George "stop trying to make Daniel Lee happen!" What he did at Bottega was great, fresh and it was what fashion people wanted at the time it picked up right off where Phoebe left Celine and the products served in the right aesthetic for the time. The brand had the atelier to really elevate his vision. (Even though nothing can beat Maier era.) But I think the moment that it went down hill for me was when he deleted Instagram and kinda took a piss out of social media. It was your whole demographic! why shoot your own foot and I think it didn't help the brand until today.

Him at Burberry, my take is that his taste and vision is too forward for Burberry. They he did some nice campaigns here and there thanks to Carina Frey and Stefanie Barth but once the clothes hit the racks doesn't seem to respond have the same spark as BV. Burberry clients are just not kind of fashion and Burberry is too big for him. All of his bags at Burberry looks sad but some shoes were cute. I wish he had a team that could really take his vision on a more realistic level.
 
Daniel Lee at Givenchy would work only if there was a full backing to his ideas and he had a team that worked well with him. At the moment he's floundering at Burberry, but that's also because a lot of people around him have little faith in him (despite being the ones that appointed him so it's a really strange predicament to be in). His approach works better than Tisci, it just isn't priced or marketed - let alone written about - right at all. This is also coming from someone that isn't a huge fan of Daniel at all, but I've come to respect where he's coming from now with a touch of empathy.

Galliano at Givenchy just... doesn't make sense. Okay, he was already there nearly 20 years ago so there's some history but that was purely interim as they waited to place him into Dior. Most of what he did there was more Dior than Givenchy which made sense at the time but I don't see what he can offer for Givenchy in this day and age besides couture offerings. And again, I don't think being back at LVMH is something Galliano wants to do mentally. He's happy at Margiela, doing a lot of non Margiela, so really if he went to Givenchy I feel like it would be more of the same just under a stricter pressure filled conglomerate.

Givenchy hasn't had a couture collection in 4 years, prior to that CWK couture offerings were very hit and miss. I think this umming and ahhing over who should go to Givenchy is just clear that none of us really know what will make Givenchy actually work. Maybe they should just take it behind the shed and end its misery...
 
i will always rally for burton at givenchy. it will be perfect and she could do her crazy stuff in the couture collections and her more commercial repetitive sillhouettes for rtw. And ofcourse her menswear will be amazing. I think mcqueen really missed out by poorly marketing her works, she was establishing the mcqueen codes to make it into a future heritage house. Now that they have the new guy at mcqueen i see their ads all over and it keeps reminding me how bad the new directon is.
 
NoInvite said:
Im gonna quote Regina George "stop trying to make Daniel Lee happen!" What he did at Bottega was great, fresh and it was what fashion people wanted at the time it picked up right off where Phoebe left Celine and the products served in the right aesthetic for the time. The brand had the atelier to really elevate his vision. (Even though nothing can beat Maier era.) But I think the moment that it went down hill for me was when he deleted Instagram and kinda took a piss out of social media. It was your whole demographic! why shoot your own foot and I think it didn't help the brand until today.

Him at Burberry, my take is that his taste and vision is too forward for Burberry. They he did some nice campaigns here and there thanks to Carina Frey and Stefanie Barth but once the clothes hit the racks doesn't seem to respond have the same spark as BV. Burberry clients are just not kind of fashion and Burberry is too big for him. All of his bags at Burberry looks sad but some shoes were cute. I wish he had a team that could really take his vision on a more realistic level.
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His Burberry bags are atrocious lol
 
I’ve always wanted Givenchy to have the clientele Dior has now—a bit conservative. I guess you can’t have too many of those brands at one company. I reckon if people don’t go to Dior they go to Celine for their lifestyle basics.

It’s a pity because Givenchy has all the right structure to thrive. You just don’t know what to do to it. Of all the people that succeeded Hubert it was only Riccardo who hit strides. Maybe the house foundations aren’t really strong enough. They really need a designer with a strong conviction. Someone who has a 360 approach.
 
Seems obvious: Lee at Givenchee.

I think Galliano has long long eclipsed Givenchy.
 
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