Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[LadyJunon]

Could Chloé get yet another designer?

"The sales of Richemont’s Chloé may be on the rise and the French fashion label may be set to be profitable in 2022 for the first time in many years, but morale at the brand is low, several sources told Miss Tweed. Chloé’s design and management teams — including CEO Riccardo Bellini — are finding it difficult to work with Chloé’s creative director Gabriela Hearst, in place now for two years, industry sources say. “That’s what happens sometimes when someone doesn’t need the salary,” one senior industry source said about Hearst’s diva behavior. The time may have come for Richemont to hire yet another creative director for Chloé. There is talk that British designer Clare Waight Keller could return, several industry sources said."
From Miss Tweed

I'm not sure this is a reliable source, but that's some juicy bit of gossip anyway.

Honestly, the main reason why Hearst was hired at Chloé was for her sustainability advancements rather than her aesthetical choices (even Vogue admits this on the review of her debut show/film thing).

Now that Chloé has sustainability and ethics initiatives in place, along with the acquisition of a B-Corp certification, the next designer should be able to continue those practices beyond Hearst's tenure without much difficulty.

^I can see why she decided to leave, though. She claimed it was time to go because she felt limited by the aesthetics of the brand. Furthermore, in an interview published after leaving Givenchy, she said she would like to design for mature women as she feels that group is left behind in fashion now. That said, it would be such a pleasant surprise to see her following the steps of Karl who, after all, also had the story of coming back to Chloé.

It would be interesting to see Chloé shift to that 30, 40, 50+ bracket and I believe CWK could pull it off and serve that clientele something outside of the overly classic, sad, matronly look that plagues that market. I always felt that her 3 years at Givenchy represented that customer better than MGC's Dior or Viard's Chanel.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Speaking of Givenchy...

Apparently Julien Dossena is in advanced talks with the brand according to Miss Tweed.

 

[THD96]

Besides a bigger salary, I don't think LVMH can offer Julien at Givenchy that he didn't already have at Paco Rabanne. Except for the fragrance (which is tacky) Julien has total freedom at PR, doing Givenchy is more pressure because the suits are expecting a hit in the first season. Also, he has to do menswear and that is not his forte, the PR men's collections that he showed so far weren't that impressive.
Though, I would love to see Julien's takes on Couture.

But I think it's possible, being alumni Nicolas and MAS has an advantage.

 

[perhydrol]

^He was already considered for the job after the departure of CWK so I wouldn't be surprised if the talks were talking place again. The question is, do they even have a budget to hire Julien? Because from what I've heard so far, the brand is seriously damaged.

 

[yslforever]

The December sales at Balenciaga are nearly null in Americas and Western Europe, Kering is searching for a suitable replacement for Demna when his contract expires next spring.

 

[THD96]

^He was already considered for the job after the departure of CWK so I wouldn't be surprised if the talks were talking place again. The question is, do they even have a budget to hire Julien? Because from what I've heard so far, the brand is seriously damaged.

I think the question is how much Bernard wants Givenchy to succeed. It's not like LVMH is short on money. He revived the whole Patou house just so Dior can have the right to sell their mediocre parfum. If Bernard wants to bring Givenchy back into the fashion conversation he will do it, just like he did with Loewe.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I think the question is how much Bernard wants Givenchy to succeed. It's not like LVMH is short on money. He revived the whole Patou house just so Dior can have the right to sell their mediocre parfum. If Bernard wants to bring Givenchy back into the fashion conversation he will do it, just like he did with Loewe.

I agree, I don't think budget is their main concern.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Besides a bigger salary, I don't think LVMH can offer Julien at Givenchy that he didn't already have at Paco Rabanne. Except for the fragrance (which is tacky) Julien has total freedom at PR, doing Givenchy is more pressure because the suits are expecting a hit in the first season. Also, he has to do menswear and that is not his forte, the PR men's collections that he showed so far weren't that impressive.
Though, I would love to see Julien's takes on Couture.

But I think it's possible, being alumni Nicolas and MAS has an advantage.

There is huge appeal in doing Givenchy.

I'm sure there's a lot LVMH can offer that Puig cannot.

I'm still not sure Dossena is the right guy though.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Nensi Dojaka already got the job.

 

[LadyJunon]

Nensi Dojaka already got the job.

Givenchy will eat her alive.

 

[bc collector]

Nensi Dojaka already got the job

Supposing that is true: best way to end her career before it even starts.

 

[donyan]

The December sales at Balenciaga are nearly null in Americas and Western Europe, Kering is searching for a suitable replacement for Demna when his contract expires next spring.

is there a source

 

[eugenius]

is there a source

I don’t know.

But, here at the Boston store (which is situated next to LV, Moncler, YSL, Dior, Burberry, Ferragamo, McQueen, Tiffany, and a thriving Saks mens store), I can definitely assure you that there’s never any customers present. And in the days leading up to Christmas, that’s something that no retailer ever wants to see.

 

[jeanclaude]

Givenchy will eat her alive.

Poor Givenchy...it is going to keep being hungry! Nensi is merely a little snack there.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Nensi Dojaka already got the job.

I really hope not.

She reeks of a one schtick pony.

 

[yslforever]

is there a source

Sorry, I can't name them, I just happen to know many suits in Kering (and LVMH), who are really worried about their position.
When I said "quasi-null" is it literally: some small shops have not reported any sales some days last week.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Sorry, I can't name them, I just happen to know many suits in Kering (and LVMH), who are really worried about their position.
When I said "quasi-null" is it literally: some small shops have not reported any sales some days last week.

Do we know for sure his contract expires next spring?

 

[LadyJunon]

Do we know for sure his contract expires next spring?

Next spring as in spring 2023? I would have thought it would expire in the fall of that year or in fall 2024. Like Wang's did.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Next spring as in spring 2023? I would have thought it would expire in the fall of that year or in fall 2024. Like Wang's did.

That's what YSLforever stated.

 

[Drusilla_]

Nensi Dojaka already got the job.

oh dear god, I hope not.

well, she is a one-trick pony but I suppose that one trick can be refined or expanded on with a bigger house, and her one trick is still more than Matthew Williams' who has 0.