Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands | Page 53 | the Fashion Spot

Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

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I'm happy for Louise, now she can utilize her talent with a house that has a fashion foundation. The only way for Carven to go is up, so it's a win-win for both parties.

They have a talented designer, now it is up to the management side to help to bring her vision into reality. With the right strategy, they can have success like Courrèges.
 
kasper! said:
In : Loro Piana - Paul Surridge
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I am quite afraid they are going to turn Loro Piana into another LVMH circus.

I have started to appreciate and wear Loro last few years but I never feel they ever need a designer (with a name) ever, the basic staples are classics and surely no star designer is needed, I am not familiar with Paul Surridge but it seems he comes from Corneliani, so maybe that is a relief.

ps. Loro`s last collaboration with Hiroshi Fujiwara did not exactly do well I believe, although admittedly it did give the brand some twist, but the staunch customers probably did not take too well to that. And the prices are too high to lure regular young, trendy ones.
 
vetements said:
I am quite afraid they are going to turn Loro Piana into another LVMH circus.

I have started to appreciate and wear Loro last few years but I never feel they ever need a designer (with a name) ever, the basic staples are classics and surely no star designer is needed, I am not familiar with Paul Surridge but it seems he comes from Corneliani, so maybe that is a relief.

ps. Loro`s last collaboration with Hiroshi Fujiwara did not exactly do well I believe, although admittedly it did give the brand some twist, but the staunch customers probably did not take too well to that. And the prices are too high to lure regular young, trendy ones.
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Aside from his puzzling assignment at Cavalli, I would suggest you look at his past tenure at Z Zegna to get an idea where he stands aesthetically. I think he can be a great fit, and if his designs for Zegna and Jil Sander men's under Raf Simons are an indicator, he will bring some streamlined modernism to Loro Piana.
 
tricotineacetat said:
Aside from his puzzling assignment at Cavalli, I would suggest you look at his past tenure at Z Zegna to get an idea where he stands aesthetically. I think he can be a great fit, and if his designs for Zegna and Jil Sander men's under Raf Simons are an indicator, he will bring some streamlined modernism to Loro Piana.
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A move from the current Loro Piana menswear is deeply needed, it is always so drab and just old. The clothes and shoes used to be expensive but sturdy, extremely reliable for traveling, now the quality is down, they are just expensive and too delicate. That Hiroshi Fujiwara collab was the last time I bought from them.
The womenswear style has definitely improved though, compared to 3/4 years ago.
LVMH, as always, has really pushed the handbags pedal, their mini bags are kind of cute.
 
I remember when LVMH bought Loro Piana from Sergio & Pierluigi Loro Piana, they had a mutual agreement that LP would never need a creative director. Now pandora box is open...
 
kasper! said:
I remember when LVMH bought Loro Piana from Sergio & Pierluigi Loro Piana, they had a mutual agreement that LP would never need a creative director. Now pandora box is open...
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Every fashion house requires a creative lead, the question is rather how the assignment is written out and who is hired to execute the given target.

I'm sincerely happy to see at least one LVMH-owned fashion house to have hired an actual hands-on designer with extensive experience over any of the recruitments that were purely based on the expected PR and reach to Gen Z. Paul Surridge speaks to a totally different audience and I sincerely hope that creates a successful mix of modernism and tradition in the spirit of Jil Sander.
 
kasper! said:
I remember when LVMH bought Loro Piana from Sergio & Pierluigi Loro Piana, they had a mutual agreement that LP would never need a creative director. Now pandora box is open...
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Im waiting for the moment they start to do the same with Moynat.

It’s a bit annoying indeed mostly because it seems like every fashion/luxury house seems to follow the same model.
 
^Ramesh Nair is good. After he left, Pauline bag is discontinued and then thousands of clients were asking for it. It sold out worldwide like in a few weeks! Nicholas Knightly is making Moynat like the Parisian version of Mulberry now ( yes he worked for Mulberry in early 00's ). His new design lost the unique Parisian touch...

After what Antoine Arnauld did with Berluti, I have no hope for Loro Piana now. All the classic models by Olga Berluti are suspended, stores are full of so called patina sneakers and hoodies. Only recently they switch a little bit and re-focus on their old models. Same with Loro Piana, many lines are cut off. The price of their fabric division has increased at least by 3 times after 2018. Almost all the leather goods are terminated and that Sesia bag they are pushing so hard is giving me a strong Michael Kors vibe...Maybe Antoine spends too much time on chasing Natalia lol, his sister is doing way better than him.
 
kasper! said:
^Ramesh Nair is good. After he left, Pauline bag is discontinued and then thousands of clients were asking for it. It sold out worldwide like in a few weeks! Nicholas Knightly is making Moynat like the Parisian version of Mulberry now ( yes he worked for Mulberry in early 00's ). His new design lost the unique Parisian touch...

After what Antoine Arnauld did with Berluti, I have no hope for Loro Piana now. All the classic models by Olga Berluti are suspended, stores are full of so called patina sneakers and hoodies. Only recently they switch a little bit and re-focus on their old models. Same with Loro Piana, many lines are cut off. The price of their fabric division has increased at least by 3 times after 2018. Almost all the leather goods are terminated and that Sesia bag they are pushing so hard is giving me a strong Michael Kors vibe...Maybe Antoine spends too much time on chasing Natalia lol, his sister is doing way better than him.
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Rashem Nair did a fantastic job with Moynat. I wasn’t a fan of the extra long handles of the Pauline but it was a fantastic bag. Still love my Rejane tho.
The Paradis was also a cute bag…

I think Nair was Intelligent in creating a line of bags that had a feeling of travel. In reality all of the bags designed during his time were perfect travel bags in bigger sizes.

Under the new creative direction, it just looks like another (good nevertheless) bag company. The heritage aspect is totally lost. The Flori looks like a Vuitton bag…

Antoine made fabulous decisions in terms of communication. The « Journées Particulières » or the institutional campaigns for Vuitton were great. But he clearly doesn’t have the eye for talent or for a long-term vision.

Even if we can sometimes criticize some of Delphine choices in terms of talents like MGC, nobody can argue that it’s coherent, consistent and profitable.

In less than a decade, Berluti has had how many creative directors?
Berluti and Loro Piana are brands that sells regardless. I don’t get the need for such changes.

Bernard wasn’t crazy when he gave Dior to Delphine. Antoine could never!
 
I am a little bummed about Paul Surridge at Loro Piana because I was almost certain that Marco Zanini was going to get the job.

Paul is a smart and capable designer although I was never really impressed by his collections for Z Zegna and his Cavalli was awful.
 
^It's even more disappointing because Zanini already designed some looks for Loro Piana collections. His textile expertise would also be a major advantage. On the other hand, I don't think he would be happy with working for a massive conglomerate on a bigger scale.
 
^ It's rather obvious Trussardi wanted to replicate the Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta moment, but as nobody really cares about the brand, it just didn't work at all. However, the fail must have been massive as the entire board resigned. I wonder if Trussardi survives this as a brand or it's gonna be turned into license-oriented thing.
 
Lola701 said:
In less than a decade, Berluti has had how many creative directors?
Berluti and Loro Piana are brands that sells regardless. I don’t get the need for such changes.
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Is Berluti really selling ? They really toned it down with the RTW and I didn't see any new shops opening. Plus other brands have improved their offering (Bally, Ferragamo, Brioni, Zegna)...
 
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