Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Deleted member 7575]

There you go.

Meh, it's only to the 25th.

It's no worse than Comme De Garcons biannual sample sale or the Loro Piana outlet store.

 

[yslforever]

There you go.

it's dreadfull, i am just glad to see Raquel Zimmerman back

 

[donyan]

I had a look , it’s a bunch of T-shirts and Sweaters that vaguely look like other brands. Whatever has become of this once so desirable brand ?

 

[fashionista-ta]

If you thought Lanvin can't get even messier, you should think again. They have a massive sale of Sialelli's pieces from the archives now and they're up to 80% off. It's like they don't understand the impact of such actions on the image of the brand.

I'm kind of the opinion that things can't get worse. Wondering why they didn't just sell to Yoox?

 

[vogue28]

After two years, Charles de Vilmorin and Rochas have parted ways:

 

[LadyJunon]

After two years, Charles de Vilmorin and Rochas have parted ways:

Discussion: Who should replace him? I'd like to see Claire Wright Keller at the helm.

 

[Lola701]

Discussion: Who should replace him? I'd like to see Claire Wright Keller at the helm.

Discussion: how many times it will take for Nina Ricci to follow the same path?

In order for Rochas to really make it, there needs to have a real desire from the executives. A real desire to produce and sell RTW means real investments.

I liked De Villemorin because I thought he had potential but it never took off commercially and the hype died really fast.

Rochas needs someone who will design clothes. Clothes that are meant to be sold and worn. Not Redcarpet / Influencers stuff meant to boost sales of old fragrances.

‘Clare can be great but for a contemporary positioning. Nobody cares for Rochas in the luxury Avenue.

 

[LadyJunon]

Discussion: how many times it will take for Nina Ricci to follow the same path?

In order for Rochas to really make it, there needs to have a real desire from the executives. A real desire to produce and sell RTW means real investments.

I liked De Villemorin because I thought he had potential but it never took off commercially and the hype died really fast.

Rochas needs someone who will design clothes. Clothes that are meant to be sold and worn. Not Redcarpet / Influencers stuff meant to boost sales of old fragrances.

‘Clare can be great but for a contemporary positioning. Nobody cares for Rochas in the luxury Avenue.

I think that de Vilmorin had a interesting vision for Rochas and his pre-collections showed an interest in designing clothes, back they didn't seem to have the infrastructure to support it. In truth, Rochas' big f*ck up was closing the fashion division back in 2006. They had a good thing going with Olivier (especially that last collection), but they neglected to consider that a fashion house at that size needs shoes and accessories to support the ready-to-wear/demi-couture.

I already know that Nina Ricci is definitely going down that exact same route. While with Rochas, I saw actual care and attention to shape, silhouette and colour, at Nina I don't see anything that could be redeemed and merchandised to an adult consumer and the whole thing was just... odd.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think that de Vilmorin had a interesting vision for Rochas and his pre-collections showed an interest in designing clothes, back they didn't seem to have the infrastructure to support it. In truth, Rochas' big f*ck up was closing the fashion division back in 2006. They had a good thing going with Olivier (especially that last collection), but they neglected to consider that a fashion house at that size needs shoes and accessories to support the ready-to-wear/demi-couture.

I already know that Nina Ricci is definitely going down that exact same route. While with Rochas, I saw actual care and attention to shape, silhouette and colour, at Nina I don't see anything that could be redeemed and merchandised to an adult consumer and the whole thing was just... odd.

I actually liked the bags (by Natalia Brilli) and shoes (by Lieven Bonne) developed under Olivier Theyskens reign - But like the RTW which was just about to have it's break through, it was not going to be a hyped-up and quick success story - One look at how long it took for Balenciaga under Nicolas and Lanvin under Alber Elbaz and you get the idea that reviving a dormant couture house is no task performed in a few seasons but requires a longer breath.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Nina Ricci, Rochas and now Lanvin are all names that are tarnished by too many designer changes in the past few years. While in the past they could have used their historic backgrounds in couture as a reason to position those brands in the top luxury tier, the only thing left to do these days is to go the 'contemporary market' route in hopes to repeat the previous success of Carven.

 

[jeanclaude]

2 years already since his appointment?? It feels like it was yesterday when he showed that little disaster (debut collection) at Rochas!

Well, this was faster than I thought!

 

[Lola701]

I think that de Vilmorin had a interesting vision for Rochas and his pre-collections showed an interest in designing clothes, back they didn't seem to have the infrastructure to support it. In truth, Rochas' big f*ck up was closing the fashion division back in 2006. They had a good thing going with Olivier (especially that last collection), but they neglected to consider that a fashion house at that size needs shoes and accessories to support the ready-to-wear/demi-couture.

I already know that Nina Ricci is definitely going down that exact same route. While with Rochas, I saw actual care and attention to shape, silhouette and colour, at Nina I don't see anything that could be redeemed and merchandised to an adult consumer and the whole thing was just... odd.

They are under a new group now. Interparfums are licensing perfumes for other brands and this is the first time they are owning the whole thing I believe.

I really think that with the right strategy, it can work. Courreges seemed like a hopeless case and see now the success. Yes Pinault is behind but they casted the right person and the right person is doing a clever job.

For me Dell Acqua did a good job or at least was heading to the right direction. But the brand needs something more directional and international. The relaunch of Courreges is very interesting! Super directional and very products-oriented.

The fact that they gave him a 2 years contract is a proof that it was a total bet and that Benacin didn’t have the right strategy.

So far, they have found in Ghesquiere studio two people to relaunch dormant/lost causes. Maybe there’s someone else.

Natacha Ramsey?

 

[matheus_s]

Bruno also left Lanvin…

 

[tourbillions]

Bruno also left Lanvin…

hope he goes to givenchy, there was just no saving lanvin but i could see his oppulence work in givenchy

 

[LadyJunon]

hope he goes to givenchy, there was just no saving lanvin but i could see his oppulence work in givenchy

His menswear also got a lot of attention during his tenure too. That would be a smart move.

 

[Nimsay]

Rochas needs to give it up. ATP it seems like money laundering bc what has Rochas ever been in the last 20 years? All they had was that mini run from Theyskens and that was it. That didn't even crossover, it was just a fashion darling.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Rochas needs to give it up. ATP it seems like money laundering bc what has Rochas ever been in the last 20 years? All they had was that mini run from Theyskens and that was it. That didn't even crossover, it was just a fashion darling.

Cross over to what? A similar place as Balenciaga is holding today?

It's making little sense to compare fashion brands in the early 2000s and holding their 'success' in comparison to where brands are standing a good 20 years later since the market has totally changed. Brands were operating and were distributed much differently. Balenciaga under Nicolas was a niche brand holding in-house shows with stripped-back decorum and barely-existent advertising while today they are doing multimedia runway spectacles and aggressively marketing their content. Clearly when looking at the Theyskens years, one could say this is the best a brand like that could have achieved, given it was owned by a conglomerate who had no wish to operate a fashion brand: Procter & Gamble wanted to rid of the fashion division ASAP when they purchased it in a big package of perfume liscenses from Schwarzkopf, which is how that story ended.

 

[Nimsay]

Cross over to what? A similar place as Balenciaga is holding today?

It's making little sense to compare fashion brands in the early 2000s and holding their 'success' in comparison to where brands are standing a good 20 years later since the market has totally changed. Brands were operating and were distributed much differently. Balenciaga under Nicolas was a niche brand holding in-house shows with stripped-back decorum and barely-existent advertising while today they are doing multimedia runway spectacles and aggressively marketing their content. Clearly when looking at the Theyskens years, one could say this is the best a brand like that could have achieved, given it was owned by a conglomerate who had no wish to operate a fashion brand: Procter & Gamble wanted to rid of the fashion division ASAP when they purchased it in a big package of perfume liscenses from Schwarzkopf, which is how that story ended.

I never compared them.

Obviously Rochas wants to be relevant and sell product but they have been mostly irrelevant for 20 years. Who wants to be irrelevant in fashion? Who doesn't want to sell product? This is ludicrous.

 

[TZ001]

Tom Ford left his own brand with final FW 23 collection

 

[Nimsay]

Tom Ford left his own brand with final FW 23 collection

What