Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[LadyJunon]

"We are honored to have unearthed this hidden jewel of Italian high fashion and are currently studying Walter Albini’s vast heritage to set the foundations for the future of the eponymous brand. Walter Albini deserves to claim its rightful place amongst the top luxury brands on the global stage,"

? This has gotta stop. It's like cancerous at this point. My eyes have rolled out of my skull. If we have to be stuck in the corporate capitalist whatever whatever nightmare, I would really like to just see a brand of someone as themself??? No group has the f*cking balls to invest in a person and their vision of fashion. Zero attempt at even trying to cover up that its core subject matter is making money. In terms of what's considered to be pop culture or the somewhat mainstream fashion narrative, our history will never ever have someone going toe to toe with another Dior, YSL, Balenciaga, when we're just gonna have either short term dissolvable stimulatory candy (that tastes like sh*t) or ride on the coattails of people who have paved their own path for e v e r.

My main issue is the couture house revival that they expect it to do well in the first few seasons, when in truth they actually have to build a brand from scratch again.

It took both Courrèges six years to become part of the fashion conversation again. It took Schiaparelli eight years. It took Mugler twelve years. It took Balenciaga a grand total of nineteen years from the first acquisition to Ghesquiere's appointment.

In truth, I wouldn't expect a fashion designer and a luxury group to collaborate and start a house in this day and age. Corporates probably find young designers too stupid to be able to create a full range of profitable products, while young designers find commerce to be the root of all evil.

Not to mention that there's this weird generational divide where designers established post-2015 are so homogeneous, yet unpredictable in terms of output and behaviour, that companies just prefer to approach designers moulded directly by older generations like Nicolas Di Felice, Pieter Mulier and Sabato de Sarno for better results.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I can´t picture Michele at Walter Albini...his style is more 80s trashy for a revival of a 20s/30s art-déco inspired brand (kind of an italian version of Biba).

But I can totally picture Catherine Baba as a stylist there, I think she would fit as a glove!

Are you kidding? I'd say over half of Michele's sensibilities as designer is taken directly from Albini.

 

[jeanclaude]

Are you kidding? I'd say over half of Michele's sensibilities as designer is taken directly from Albini.

Not kidding! Michele could be influenced by Albini...but the output looks more like 80s trashy than 20-30s art-deco.

Have a look at the archival images from their IG account:

 

[LadyJunon]

Are you kidding? I'd say over half of Michele's sensibilities as designer is taken directly from Albini.

Not kidding! Michele could be influenced by Albini...but the output looks more like 80s trashy than 20-30s art-deco.

Have a look at the archival images from their IG account:

Exactly, his aesthetic at Gucci is very much "20s/30s through the eyes of the 70s", especially when you look at his very first few collections (up to Spring 2017). He won't be able to repeat the exact same formula here however. There needs to be a slight shift.

 

[jeanclaude]

Exactly, his aesthetic at Gucci is very much "20s/30s through the eyes of the 70s"

I don´t see 20s/30s art-deco glam at Michele´s Gucci. I see an amalgamation of late 70s and 80s.

PS. The very first collection has some hints of it; but in a very light way.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Albini was very high-octane with his clothes and image making (both for his label and editorially). Lots of movement, glamour, sex, jet-set chicness with a perverse attitude with things that were still very simple and wearable. Albini's fashion from a look/silhouette point of view also made sense at the time but I don't know if it'll work for now unless you really bring in the grit. The public would abhor that unless it was Y2K adjacent. He did do a lot of jersey and knitwear although I don't think we need another jersey/knitwear heavy brand...

Michele has referenced Albini a lot though. Just not sure if that means it'll translate as well long term. Michele's twee attitude with his fashion wouldn't make sense, because I'd be concerned that it'll become too much of a pastiche which is what happened to his Gucci in the end.

 

[jeanclaude]

Albini was about sophisticated, elegant and wearable clothes. He was influenced by 20s/30s Chanel.

Michele verges costume territory, his work is extravagant, flamboyant; and very loud. His clothes are more into "New Romantics"/Blitz Kids 80s territory.

I can picture Michele in a more playful brand, like Moschino.

 

[IndigoHomme]

That was fast...


Bally’s creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor steps down
Swiss luxury brand Bally has announced that it has made a “mutual decision” to part ways with its creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor.

In a statement, Bally CEO Nicolas Girotto thanked Villaseñor for his creative contributions during his time at the company, adding: “His passion, energy, and creativity helped catapult Bally back into the spotlight, further rejuvenating the brand’s 170-year legacy through a modern, glamorous lens. I wish him all the best in the next chapter of his creative journey.”

Villaseñor first joined Bally in January 2022, taking on the role to oversee creative direction across the brand, with his debut coming in spring/summer 2023.

He entered Bally from his own brand Rhude, where he had been at the creative helm since founding the label in 2015, for which he focused on an identity based around merging luxury with streetwear.

Villaseñor departs just over one year on from joining
On his appointment at Bally, Villaseñor had been tasked by Girotto with moving the company into “the next level” and evolving its “contemporary relevance” while maintaining its core values.

During this period, Villaseñor presented shows at Milan Fashion Week 20 years on from the brand’s last fashion week appearance and had continued to work on the brand’s identity.

Speaking on his departure, the designer said: “My experience at Bally has been an incredible honour. I wish the brand nothing but the best in all its future endeavours and look forward to enjoying its next creative chapter.”

Bally said that its design studio would continue to carry the direction of the brand forward until a new creative organisation was announced.

Villaseñor’s exit comes after Bally announced a long-term collaboration with actor Adrien Brody, who will be working with the brand on a series of capsule collections for ready-to-wear clothing, shoes, bags and accessories.

Through the collaboration, the brand said that Brody, who would be making his fashion design debut with the collections, would aim to showcase Bally’s heritage while “applying his artistic sensibility”.

Via Bally’s creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor steps down

 

[FashionFanatico]

^
thank god. It was a bad match from the start.
Bally is not Gucci. And never will be.

Sex is not selling if your loyal clients are mostly banker, tourists and wealthy couples in their sixties who love beige, brown and black.

all shops were always empty here in Switzerland.
it was painful to watch the bored to death sales team standing there totally lost for hours.

Villaseñors vision of oldfashioned sexiness was pure poison for the sales - especially the leather goods.

 

[Lola701]

Ridiculous…
The guy didn’t even had 1 year of products in the stores so his vision wasn’t fulfilled…

‘I don’t know if he was fired or if he decided to leave considering that Adrian Brody’s position seems to compromise his.

‘Maybe for the best…
He can use his experience to elevate his own brand.

 

[LadyJunon]

That was fast...


Bally’s creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor steps down
Swiss luxury brand Bally has announced that it has made a “mutual decision” to part ways with its creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor.

In a statement, Bally CEO Nicolas Girotto thanked Villaseñor for his creative contributions during his time at the company, adding: “His passion, energy, and creativity helped catapult Bally back into the spotlight, further rejuvenating the brand’s 170-year legacy through a modern, glamorous lens. I wish him all the best in the next chapter of his creative journey.”

Villaseñor first joined Bally in January 2022, taking on the role to oversee creative direction across the brand, with his debut coming in spring/summer 2023.

He entered Bally from his own brand Rhude, where he had been at the creative helm since founding the label in 2015, for which he focused on an identity based around merging luxury with streetwear.

Villaseñor departs just over one year on from joining
On his appointment at Bally, Villaseñor had been tasked by Girotto with moving the company into “the next level” and evolving its “contemporary relevance” while maintaining its core values.

During this period, Villaseñor presented shows at Milan Fashion Week 20 years on from the brand’s last fashion week appearance and had continued to work on the brand’s identity.

Speaking on his departure, the designer said: “My experience at Bally has been an incredible honour. I wish the brand nothing but the best in all its future endeavours and look forward to enjoying its next creative chapter.”

Bally said that its design studio would continue to carry the direction of the brand forward until a new creative organisation was announced.

Villaseñor’s exit comes after Bally announced a long-term collaboration with actor Adrien Brody, who will be working with the brand on a series of capsule collections for ready-to-wear clothing, shoes, bags and accessories.

Through the collaboration, the brand said that Brody, who would be making his fashion design debut with the collections, would aim to showcase Bally’s heritage while “applying his artistic sensibility”.

Via Bally’s creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor steps down

I feel really bad for him. He has only done two shows and his debut collection is still widely available in stores...

 

[ah ah]

Well, it would actually be advisable for Rhuigi to avoid setting foot in Bally. Regrettably, his presence on the catwalk introduced an element of tastelessness that undermined the brand's rich heritage. The decision to overhaul all the shops and such, in my opinion, ranks among the stupidest choices made by any fashion house in recent times.

 

[Mathewthew]

It's sad news that he didn't even have a few more season to establish his aesthetic, but his Bally's collection is quite forgettable....
It's not relevant to the clients and nothing interesting for others. His own brand is much better and I hope he can take his expereince and work harder on his own brand. This also show how ridiculous the management of fashion nowadays, they are trying to replicate other success instead of working their own way to success. And also how sad it is, cause Rhuigi has such huge responsibilities (sales) on his shoulder.

I wonder how Ferragamo is doing?

 

[ah ah]

It's sad news that he didn't even have a few more season to establish his aesthetic, but his Bally's collection is quite forgettable....
It's not relevant to the clients and nothing interesting for others. His own brand is much better and I hope he can take his expereince and work harder on his own brand. This also show how ridiculous the management of fashion nowadays, they are trying to replicate other success instead of working their own way to success. And also how sad it is, cause Rhuigi has such huge responsibilities (sales) on his shoulder.

I wonder how Ferragamo is doing?

Ferragamo is apparently doing well. But you cannot compare Maximilian to Rhuigi. The first one is a talented designer, the second one is unfortunately not even close to that. If he would apply the effort he is putting in showing his lifestyle on his IG account in the creative process, he would probably gain the respect from the fashion crowd he is missing at the moment.

 

[LadyJunon]

Ferragamo is apparently doing well. But you cannot compare Maximilian to Rhuigi. The first one is a talented designer, the second one is unfortunately not even close to that. If he would apply the effort he is putting in showing his lifestyle on his IG account in the creative process, he would probably gain the respect from the fashion crowd he is missing at the moment.

That makes me happy to know that Ferragamo is doing well. It would be an immense shame for Davis to fold his fashion house for a failed tenure.

 

[reese06]

Sorry, I can't really cheer this on. It seems entirely premature and whether or not you believe he is talented or not, doesn't speak to Rhuigi but the suits lack of management, poor decision making and planning.

This highlights the ridiculousness of the industry on many points.

Giving him the job in the first place and then not really planning and giving him time to execute. I just cannot.

 

[Deleted member 119799]

Ferragamo is apparently doing well

source?

 

[Frederic01]

^^^ Re: Ferragamo Revenue.

The Covid-19 pandemic hit just as the company was striving to rejuvenate its historic brand, famous for the shoes worn by Hollywood stars such as Audrey Hepburn.

Last year, Gobbetti promised a quick turnaround for the Italian luxury group, vowing to increase investments, revamp stores and attract younger customers to double revenues to almost €2.3 billion by 2026.

Sales at Ferragamo declined by 6.5 percent at constant exchange rates in the first quarter, hit by a slowdown in the US market. Analysts said it was too early to judge efforts to revive the brand under Gobbetti and new designer Maximilian Davis.

Business of Fashion

 

[Demna]

Ludovic is OUT

 

[Nimsay]

I like that bally and ann d arent wasting our time. That dress on that hunter person was a mega flop.