Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[yslforever]

filipo for loewe!

Filippo Grazioli ?
I'd love to see that.

 

[jeanclaude]

Same designers, different brands, same boring results...

 

[PDFSD]

Filippo Grazioli never looked into his Missoni till i clicked on his last show here on TFS.
just checked his IG to see what his world is about as so many liked his work here on TFS.
But after this picture it solidify what me feeling was of his work already: and i will leave it at that lol 🤐 🫣

 

[TianCouture]

I cannot see JWA at Dior. We had Raf as the experimental designer and it just did not work at all. Very weird and it would seem like it is true

 

[fenty]

Looking back, Raf's tenure at Dior was bizarre especially in comparison to the designers that came before and after him

 

[Lola701]

Looking back, Raf's tenure at Dior was bizarre especially in comparison to the designers that came before and after him

But! Raf had an interesting run of critical hits, infused of 1950’s fashion at Jil Sander that indicated that his Dior would work.
I need to know why Patrick didn’t make it to Dior with Rat but Pieter did.

I will never forget Raf for his FW2013 Couture show. Even Bill Gaytten’s circus show was better than that.

 

[Scotty]

So where is Galliano going then?

 

[Frederic01]

But! Raf had an interesting run of critical hits, infused of 1950’s fashion at Jil Sander that indicated that his Dior would work.
I need to know why Patrick didn’t make it to Dior with Rat but Pieter did.

I will never forget Raf for his FW2013 Couture show. Even Bill Gaytten’s circus show was better than that.

You're joking right @Lola701 ? I'm quite terrified if you think Bill Gaytten's HC show (L) was better than Raf's (R). That collection by Raf had quite a few archive pieces that were taken straight from Monsieur Dior's tenure. The two-tired red pleated red dress in particular is quite spectacular. There were also quite a few OG Dior bar jackets which were made so exquisitely (I saw the pieces in person, the insides were extraordinary, made with the same boning as in the 1940's/1950/s).


VOGUE RUNWAY

 

[TaylorBinque]

PPP will never be able to make Gucci come back. (if you compare MCG and PPP) They need someone who has extremely strong accessories game. Most of the Valentino best sellers were actually from MCG and PPP time. She has demonstrated that she can repeat it at Dior. PPP could be good at Fendi because he would only need to focus on the clothes not accessories. And at least he knows how to handle couture unlike Kim Jones.

 

[TaylorBinque]

But! Raf had an interesting run of critical hits, infused of 1950’s fashion at Jil Sander that indicated that his Dior would work.
I need to know why Patrick didn’t make it to Dior with Rat but Pieter did.

I will never forget Raf for his FW2013 Couture show. Even Bill Gaytten’s circus show was better than that.

I did have such soft spot for Raf's Jil Sander and Raf's Dior. I love did love his Dior but it was cold and static.

 

[Thefrenchy]

I too did enjoy Raf's Dior, to be honest. Perhaps because I'm French but Dior has always had this dusty vibe to it for me. I hate the word "modern" in fashion so I won't use it, instead I'll say that his Dior made the brand feel like it belonged to the present.

Whoever comes next, I hope they will make Dior sharper, less next-door. I love JWA but wonder how his approach will translate there. I do wish they give him the full package and include Dior Homme (I refuse to call it Dior Men), only because he is to me waaaaaay stronger in menswear than in womenswear. I'm not sure of what his Couture would even look like...

 

[Lola701]

You're joking right @Lola701 ? I'm quite terrified if you think Bill Gaytten's HC show (L) was better than Raf's (R). That collection by Raf had quite a few archive pieces that were taken straight from Monsieur Dior's tenure. The two-tired red pleated red dress in particular is quite spectacular. There were also quite a few OG Dior bar jackets which were made so exquisitely (I saw the pieces in person, the insides were extraordinary, made with the same boning as in the 1940's/1950/s).

View attachment 1313946 View attachment 1313947
VOGUE RUNWAY

I often agree with you but on this one, I’m not going to change my stance…EVER! LOL

The circus show was more offending to me in terms of Hair and Make Up than pieces. I can also pull the best looks from the collection to compare. So yes, Raf’s collection had some very classic minimal Dior pieces from the archives and the whole bla bla bla…
BUT those twist and turn dresses, those plucking, tortured manipulations and cut outs with inserts…
My god that collection is such a construction enigma to me. I still hate it.
I think the two Dior collections I hate more than the FW2013 Couture are the HC FW2010 and HC SS2011.

I’m not very Dior anyway. But I have to say this about Raf: he made the best Bar suit, the best Bar dresses and probably had the best accessories ever at Dior. Considering how much I wasn’t a fan of his work at the house, he is the CD I have the most pieces from.

 

[Frederic01]

I think Jonathan Anderson for Dior makes much more sense than Maria Grazia Chiuri in a way. He has a very modern touch and could really breathe life into the brand and to the heritage in a way that Maria Grazia still hasn't managed to do.

Whilst she was a great commercial success, and that is something to be admired, nothing she did at Dior was inspiring or intellectually stimulating. All she did was slap logos on everything, pretend to be this supposed champion of feminism, and bring in a tonne of Italian - Grecian inspiration, which made absolutely no sense for the brand. She is not a talented designer in the way that we were made to believe coming out of Valentino in 2016. A talented merchandiser and great at commerce she was, yes, but an extraordinary designer and source of inspiration for legions of fashion fans she was definitely not and will never be until she gets rid of all of her "cultural advisors" around her and gets back to designing actual clothes.

Jonathan will position Dior back in the fashion conversation, just like Raf did with that first Haute Couture collection.

The bonus this time is that LVMH can just keep selling all that trash that is so commercially successful under Maria Grazia, and leave Jonathan to really soar in terms of creativity.

Exciting times ahead for Dior as soon as MGC leaves!

 

[yslforever]

I think Jonathan Anderson for Dior makes much more sense than Maria Grazia Chiuri in a way. He has a very modern touch and could really breathe life into the brand and to the heritage in a way that Maria Grazia still hasn't managed to do.

Whilst she was a great commercial success, and that is something to be admired, nothing she did at Dior was inspiring or intellectually stimulating. All she did was slap logos on everything, pretend to be this supposed champion of feminism, and bring in a tonne of Italian - Grecian inspiration, which made absolutely no sense for the brand. She is not a talented designer in the way that we were made to believe coming out of Valentino in 2016. A talented merchandiser and great at commerce she was, yes, but an extraordinary designer and source of inspiration for legions of fashion fans she was definitely not and will never be until she gets rid of all of her "cultural advisors" around her and gets back to designing actual clothes.

Jonathan will position Dior back in the fashion conversation, just like Raf did with that first Haute Couture collection.

The bonus this time is that LVMH can just keep selling all that trash that is so commercially successful under Maria Grazia, and leave Jonathan to really soar in terms of creativity.

Exciting times ahead for Dior as soon as MGC leaves!

There are enough merchandise and merchandisers at Dior to use MGC era accessories and add a JWA flair on it: on top of my head and in 20 seconds, folding Book totes and toile de Jouy but with anime, a different studio per season.

 

[Frederic01]

The real question is, after Jonathan goes to Dior, who will take over at Loewe??

 

[tourbillions]

Filippo Grazioli never looked into his Missoni till i clicked on his last show here on TFS.
just checked his IG to see what his world is about as so many liked his work here on TFS.
But after this picture it solidify what me feeling was of his work already: and i will leave it at that lol 🤐 🫣


View attachment 1313813

im not sure what the point of this photo is... It doesnt speak for his work and the way he has modernized one of the trickiest brands. In the 2 years he spent there, he was able to turn around many peoples perception of missoni. He did it gradually, delivering simpler yet fresh offerings in his first collections and finally the last one which really expanded the missoni universe. Unfortunately they are going back to someone who spent 20 years in the brand watching it and letting it go from a fashion brand to a beddings/towel/ brand.

 

[Thefrenchy]

The real question is, after Jonathan goes to Dior, who will take over at Loewe??

I do wonder as well... He really defined what Loewe is, I can't think of anyone who could carry what he's built there... Unless they promote someone internally? or call Daniel Lee perhaps?

 

[LadyJunon]

im not sure what the point of this photo is... It doesnt speak for his work and the way he has modernized one of the trickiest brands. In the 2 years he spent there, he was able to turn around many peoples perception of missoni. He did it gradually, delivering simpler yet fresh offerings in his first collections and finally the last one which really expanded the missoni universe. Unfortunately they are going back to someone who spent 20 years in the brand watching it and letting it go from a fashion brand to a beddings/towel/ brand.

Funny enough, Grazioli's departure and replacement isn't being well received AT ALL, especially after the SS25 show being such a hit. I don't think letting him go has such a good idea, especially afterseeing that the brand became profitable for the first time in several years under his direction. Calibri's interim collections (SS22 and FW22) weren't bad at all, but Grazioli's collections had that needed modern spark>

 

[Olaffo]

Here Miss Tweed is explaining the bigger change in LVMH.

 

[Xone]

Here Miss Tweed is explaining the bigger change in LVMH.

Why she @ to everyone? that's annoying....

Anyone have the full article?