Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

Filippo Grazioli never looked into his Missoni till i clicked on his last show here on TFS.
just checked his IG to see what his world is about as so many liked his work here on TFS.
But after this picture it solidify what me feeling was of his work already: and i will leave it at that lol 🤐 🫣 :innocent:


art pop milano.jpg
 
Looking back, Raf's tenure at Dior was bizarre especially in comparison to the designers that came before and after him
But! Raf had an interesting run of critical hits, infused of 1950’s fashion at Jil Sander that indicated that his Dior would work.
I need to know why Patrick didn’t make it to Dior with Rat but Pieter did.

I will never forget Raf for his FW2013 Couture show. Even Bill Gaytten’s circus show was better than that.
 
But! Raf had an interesting run of critical hits, infused of 1950’s fashion at Jil Sander that indicated that his Dior would work.
I need to know why Patrick didn’t make it to Dior with Rat but Pieter did.

I will never forget Raf for his FW2013 Couture show. Even Bill Gaytten’s circus show was better than that.

You're joking right @Lola701 ? I'm quite terrified if you think Bill Gaytten's HC show (L) was better than Raf's (R). That collection by Raf had quite a few archive pieces that were taken straight from Monsieur Dior's tenure. The two-tired red pleated red dress in particular is quite spectacular. There were also quite a few OG Dior bar jackets which were made so exquisitely (I saw the pieces in person, the insides were extraordinary, made with the same boning as in the 1940's/1950/s).

00010fullscreen.jpg Christian-Dior-Haute-Couture-FW13-48.jpg
VOGUE RUNWAY
 
PPP will never be able to make Gucci come back. (if you compare MCG and PPP) They need someone who has extremely strong accessories game. Most of the Valentino best sellers were actually from MCG and PPP time. She has demonstrated that she can repeat it at Dior. PPP could be good at Fendi because he would only need to focus on the clothes not accessories. And at least he knows how to handle couture unlike Kim Jones.
 
But! Raf had an interesting run of critical hits, infused of 1950’s fashion at Jil Sander that indicated that his Dior would work.
I need to know why Patrick didn’t make it to Dior with Rat but Pieter did.

I will never forget Raf for his FW2013 Couture show. Even Bill Gaytten’s circus show was better than that.
I did have such soft spot for Raf's Jil Sander and Raf's Dior. I love did love his Dior but it was cold and static.
 
I too did enjoy Raf's Dior, to be honest. Perhaps because I'm French but Dior has always had this dusty vibe to it for me. I hate the word "modern" in fashion so I won't use it, instead I'll say that his Dior made the brand feel like it belonged to the present.

Whoever comes next, I hope they will make Dior sharper, less next-door. I love JWA but wonder how his approach will translate there. I do wish they give him the full package and include Dior Homme (I refuse to call it Dior Men), only because he is to me waaaaaay stronger in menswear than in womenswear. I'm not sure of what his Couture would even look like...
 
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You're joking right @Lola701 ? I'm quite terrified if you think Bill Gaytten's HC show (L) was better than Raf's (R). That collection by Raf had quite a few archive pieces that were taken straight from Monsieur Dior's tenure. The two-tired red pleated red dress in particular is quite spectacular. There were also quite a few OG Dior bar jackets which were made so exquisitely (I saw the pieces in person, the insides were extraordinary, made with the same boning as in the 1940's/1950/s).

View attachment 1313946 View attachment 1313947
VOGUE RUNWAY
I often agree with you but on this one, I’m not going to change my stance…EVER! LOL

The circus show was more offending to me in terms of Hair and Make Up than pieces. I can also pull the best looks from the collection to compare. So yes, Raf’s collection had some very classic minimal Dior pieces from the archives and the whole bla bla bla…
BUT those twist and turn dresses, those plucking, tortured manipulations and cut outs with inserts…
My god that collection is such a construction enigma to me. I still hate it.
I think the two Dior collections I hate more than the FW2013 Couture are the HC FW2010 and HC SS2011.

I’m not very Dior anyway. But I have to say this about Raf: he made the best Bar suit, the best Bar dresses and probably had the best accessories ever at Dior. Considering how much I wasn’t a fan of his work at the house, he is the CD I have the most pieces from.
 

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