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What does Jonathan Anderson at Dior mean for LVMH and the industry?
By MISS TWEED
6 October 2024
Musical chairs in the fashion world seem to be spinning out of control these days. Jonathan Anderson's expected arrival at Dior, reported by Miss Tweed on Friday, will trigger many rounds. Anderson's move to Dior - which parent LVMH has not confirmed yet - comes fresh on the heels of Hedi Slimanes exit from Celine announced this week, replaced by Michael Rider who left Ralph Lauren in the spring.
Other important hires at LVMH, but also at other major groups and houses, will follow. You already have Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino's former creative director, who's expected to join Fendi, as Miss Tweed reported last month. Then, there are a few big brands without a designer. The biggest is Chanel. Slimane would fit well at the storied French house.
His past two collections, replete with tweed jackets and pearl necklaces, were a clear nod tohis desire to join Chanel.
Whether the Wertheimers, Chanel's owners, are ready to give him the amount of control and power he got at Celine and previously at Saint Laurent, part of Kering, remains to be seen. On the other hand, Slimane has made so much money while at LVMH - estimated in the tens of millions of euros - that he does not have to work anymore if he does not want to.
One more credible candidate is Maria Grazia Chiuri, who will become available next year. She is a merchandising and marketing maestro and would know how to create great shows.
Chiuri has done a fantastic job at Dior over the past eight years, helping the French brand more than triple its annual revenue. It is understood that she will exit the brand after her next show in March during Paris Fashion Week, industry sources said. Hence, it's a bit early for LVMH to announce her departure.
Dior is LVMH's second-biggest brand after Louis Vuitton. LVMH has not replied to requests for comment about Anderson's expected nomination at Dior or about Piccioli at Fendi.
CHANEL
Slimane at Chanel is not the only option. You have the immensely talented John Galliano. He's about to become free as his contract with Maison Margiela ends this month and he's not planning on renewing it, as Miss Tweed previously reported. At least for now.It's possible that Galliano will do another show for Margiela next year "outside of this contract," a source close to the brand said.
Galliano wants to work for a much bigger brand, several sources said. He would fit well at Chanel as he is a true couturier, the last of his ilk after the passing of former Chanel creative director Karl Lagerfeld in 2019. But in practice, he may not be able to sustain the rhythm of producing eight to 10 collections a year if not more - as did Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard after him. Hence, chances are slim that Galliano would go to Chanel.
Vogue editor Anna Wintour lobbied LVMH boss Bernard Arnault hard to take back Galliano for Dior but many people at LVMH were opposed to it, including members of the Arnault family and former Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, who sacked him for his public anti-Semitic rants in a Paris bar in 2011. Since Michael Burke's retreat in the spring, Toledano has been unofficially running LVMH's Fashion Group, the division that runs all of LVMH's fashion brands but Dior and Louis Vuitton.
Galliano's troubled past and reputation as a tyrant towards his staff may prevent the Wertheimers to hire him. Lagerfeld was never easy, but he looked after the members of his teams, particularly as he grew older.
If Galliano is not offered an attractive alternative, he may end up staying at Margiela and will have just made a small pause to give him the freedom to weigh his options.
There has been industry chatter about Simon Jacquemus joining Chanel. Somehow, it's difficult to see how the 34-year-old French designer would be capable of doing this big job and remain laser-focused on his eponymous brand at the same time. The Jacquemus label has had a strong decade, but its growth in the past year has been hampered by the current downturn in spending. And the brand has had to put some store opening plans on hold. Making matters worse, the quality of Jacquemus products, particularly handbags, in relation to the high price they command, has been criticized on social networks. Going to Chanel could threaten the future of his brand - something the French designer may not be willing to.
LOEWE
Anderson's expected arrival at Dior means that LVMH will need to find a replacement for Loewe. Anderson has turned Loewe into the world's most popular brand in the second quarter of this year, according to the Lyst index, which does a ranking of products and brands every quarter based on online searches and social media mentions, activity and engagement worldwide.
In his most recent Loewe campaign, Anderson metamorphosed James Bond actor Daniel Craig with a new look, and the ads have been a huge hit. Anderson is one fashion's biggest talents. It's logical LVMH is doing everything it can to keep him on board.
The 40-year-old Northernrish designer had been saying for months that he wished to move on from Loewe, industry sources said. Recently, Anderson has been talking openly about his arrival at Dior at dinners with friends, they said. It hardly comes as a surprise.
For LVMH, and in particular for Delphine Arnault, Bernard Arnault's daughter, giving Dior to Anderson was the best way to keep him. Delphine, who became CEO of Dior in January, is a huge Anderson fan. She hired him for Loewe in 2013 and got LVMH to take a minority stake in his eponymous brand JW Anderson. LVMH continues to finance the London brand's losses to this day.
Potential replacements for Anderson at Loewe include Daniel Lee, whose days at Burberry seem numbered with the arrival of the British brand's new CEO Joshua Schulman two months ago. Another candidate - more difficult to get - would be Matthieu Blazy, who's doing wonders at Kering's Bottega Veneta. Since Bottega Veneta is Kering's strongest-growing fashion brand right now, you cannot see Kering letting go of Blazy easily. Lee, who previously was at Bottega Veneta, might be a more accessible option for LVMH's Loewe.
TALENTS
It's not easy to find and hire talented designers. Kering had a hard time finding a suitable replacement for Alessandro Michele at Gucci after his abrupt departure in November
2022. Several sources say that Sabato De Sarno, who was head of ready-to-wear at Valentino, was not Kering's first choice. It's possible that Maria Grazia Chiuri, whom Anderson will replace at Dior, was contacted by Kering and declined. She may be contacted again ahead of her departure from Dior in the spring.
If Chiuri does not go to Chanel, her romantic touch and powerful shows would also suit Gucci. "If Chiuri joined Gucci, I think investors would welcome the news and would be willing to be patient and wait for her magic touch to work," one senior industry source told Miss Tweed.
Fashion experts see her as a much better fit at Gucci than Galliano. She is a hugely talented merchandiser and storyteller. Galliano is more of a couturier. But yet again, in fashion - anything can happen. Let's not forget that Hedi Slimane could be another possibility for Gucci. What's clear is that Sabato De Sarno will not stay on for very long.
After a year and a half in the job, De Sarno has not managed to wow the crowds with his "quiet luxury" version of Gucci. It's a shame that he has not given the brand more spark in terms of image. Kering has been telling analysts that De Sarno's products have been selling quite well, much better than those items designed by the studio before he arrived or the so-called "carry-over" heritage collection of products you can find every season. However overall, Gucci's sales continue to decline, particularly in China, industry sources say.
The very notion of "quiet luxury" seems to be out of fashion, according to critics.
The success of Alessandro Micheles first show for Valentino last week marked a return of maximalism, with a collection full of opulence, printed fabrics, ruffles, jacquard jackets, bows; and bright colors. Models wore wide-brimmed hats - which was very 1970s Valentino - together with red or white fishnet stockings. Lots of polka dots everywhere, on printed dresses or two-piece suits, and black-and-white feather scarves and lavaliere blouses. "I never loved polka dots," Michele told journalists at a press conference after the show. "But I used them in my way... I am not afraid to have used already so many references to Valentino's work, Michele said.
Michele's show got support from several high-profile celebrities including Harry Styles, Jared Leto and Elton John.
By MISS TWEED
6 October 2024
Musical chairs in the fashion world seem to be spinning out of control these days. Jonathan Anderson's expected arrival at Dior, reported by Miss Tweed on Friday, will trigger many rounds. Anderson's move to Dior - which parent LVMH has not confirmed yet - comes fresh on the heels of Hedi Slimanes exit from Celine announced this week, replaced by Michael Rider who left Ralph Lauren in the spring.
Other important hires at LVMH, but also at other major groups and houses, will follow. You already have Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino's former creative director, who's expected to join Fendi, as Miss Tweed reported last month. Then, there are a few big brands without a designer. The biggest is Chanel. Slimane would fit well at the storied French house.
His past two collections, replete with tweed jackets and pearl necklaces, were a clear nod tohis desire to join Chanel.
Whether the Wertheimers, Chanel's owners, are ready to give him the amount of control and power he got at Celine and previously at Saint Laurent, part of Kering, remains to be seen. On the other hand, Slimane has made so much money while at LVMH - estimated in the tens of millions of euros - that he does not have to work anymore if he does not want to.
One more credible candidate is Maria Grazia Chiuri, who will become available next year. She is a merchandising and marketing maestro and would know how to create great shows.
Chiuri has done a fantastic job at Dior over the past eight years, helping the French brand more than triple its annual revenue. It is understood that she will exit the brand after her next show in March during Paris Fashion Week, industry sources said. Hence, it's a bit early for LVMH to announce her departure.
Dior is LVMH's second-biggest brand after Louis Vuitton. LVMH has not replied to requests for comment about Anderson's expected nomination at Dior or about Piccioli at Fendi.
CHANEL
Slimane at Chanel is not the only option. You have the immensely talented John Galliano. He's about to become free as his contract with Maison Margiela ends this month and he's not planning on renewing it, as Miss Tweed previously reported. At least for now.It's possible that Galliano will do another show for Margiela next year "outside of this contract," a source close to the brand said.
Galliano wants to work for a much bigger brand, several sources said. He would fit well at Chanel as he is a true couturier, the last of his ilk after the passing of former Chanel creative director Karl Lagerfeld in 2019. But in practice, he may not be able to sustain the rhythm of producing eight to 10 collections a year if not more - as did Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard after him. Hence, chances are slim that Galliano would go to Chanel.
Vogue editor Anna Wintour lobbied LVMH boss Bernard Arnault hard to take back Galliano for Dior but many people at LVMH were opposed to it, including members of the Arnault family and former Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, who sacked him for his public anti-Semitic rants in a Paris bar in 2011. Since Michael Burke's retreat in the spring, Toledano has been unofficially running LVMH's Fashion Group, the division that runs all of LVMH's fashion brands but Dior and Louis Vuitton.
Galliano's troubled past and reputation as a tyrant towards his staff may prevent the Wertheimers to hire him. Lagerfeld was never easy, but he looked after the members of his teams, particularly as he grew older.
If Galliano is not offered an attractive alternative, he may end up staying at Margiela and will have just made a small pause to give him the freedom to weigh his options.
There has been industry chatter about Simon Jacquemus joining Chanel. Somehow, it's difficult to see how the 34-year-old French designer would be capable of doing this big job and remain laser-focused on his eponymous brand at the same time. The Jacquemus label has had a strong decade, but its growth in the past year has been hampered by the current downturn in spending. And the brand has had to put some store opening plans on hold. Making matters worse, the quality of Jacquemus products, particularly handbags, in relation to the high price they command, has been criticized on social networks. Going to Chanel could threaten the future of his brand - something the French designer may not be willing to.
LOEWE
Anderson's expected arrival at Dior means that LVMH will need to find a replacement for Loewe. Anderson has turned Loewe into the world's most popular brand in the second quarter of this year, according to the Lyst index, which does a ranking of products and brands every quarter based on online searches and social media mentions, activity and engagement worldwide.
In his most recent Loewe campaign, Anderson metamorphosed James Bond actor Daniel Craig with a new look, and the ads have been a huge hit. Anderson is one fashion's biggest talents. It's logical LVMH is doing everything it can to keep him on board.
The 40-year-old Northernrish designer had been saying for months that he wished to move on from Loewe, industry sources said. Recently, Anderson has been talking openly about his arrival at Dior at dinners with friends, they said. It hardly comes as a surprise.
For LVMH, and in particular for Delphine Arnault, Bernard Arnault's daughter, giving Dior to Anderson was the best way to keep him. Delphine, who became CEO of Dior in January, is a huge Anderson fan. She hired him for Loewe in 2013 and got LVMH to take a minority stake in his eponymous brand JW Anderson. LVMH continues to finance the London brand's losses to this day.
Potential replacements for Anderson at Loewe include Daniel Lee, whose days at Burberry seem numbered with the arrival of the British brand's new CEO Joshua Schulman two months ago. Another candidate - more difficult to get - would be Matthieu Blazy, who's doing wonders at Kering's Bottega Veneta. Since Bottega Veneta is Kering's strongest-growing fashion brand right now, you cannot see Kering letting go of Blazy easily. Lee, who previously was at Bottega Veneta, might be a more accessible option for LVMH's Loewe.
TALENTS
It's not easy to find and hire talented designers. Kering had a hard time finding a suitable replacement for Alessandro Michele at Gucci after his abrupt departure in November
2022. Several sources say that Sabato De Sarno, who was head of ready-to-wear at Valentino, was not Kering's first choice. It's possible that Maria Grazia Chiuri, whom Anderson will replace at Dior, was contacted by Kering and declined. She may be contacted again ahead of her departure from Dior in the spring.
If Chiuri does not go to Chanel, her romantic touch and powerful shows would also suit Gucci. "If Chiuri joined Gucci, I think investors would welcome the news and would be willing to be patient and wait for her magic touch to work," one senior industry source told Miss Tweed.
Fashion experts see her as a much better fit at Gucci than Galliano. She is a hugely talented merchandiser and storyteller. Galliano is more of a couturier. But yet again, in fashion - anything can happen. Let's not forget that Hedi Slimane could be another possibility for Gucci. What's clear is that Sabato De Sarno will not stay on for very long.
After a year and a half in the job, De Sarno has not managed to wow the crowds with his "quiet luxury" version of Gucci. It's a shame that he has not given the brand more spark in terms of image. Kering has been telling analysts that De Sarno's products have been selling quite well, much better than those items designed by the studio before he arrived or the so-called "carry-over" heritage collection of products you can find every season. However overall, Gucci's sales continue to decline, particularly in China, industry sources say.
The very notion of "quiet luxury" seems to be out of fashion, according to critics.
The success of Alessandro Micheles first show for Valentino last week marked a return of maximalism, with a collection full of opulence, printed fabrics, ruffles, jacquard jackets, bows; and bright colors. Models wore wide-brimmed hats - which was very 1970s Valentino - together with red or white fishnet stockings. Lots of polka dots everywhere, on printed dresses or two-piece suits, and black-and-white feather scarves and lavaliere blouses. "I never loved polka dots," Michele told journalists at a press conference after the show. "But I used them in my way... I am not afraid to have used already so many references to Valentino's work, Michele said.
Michele's show got support from several high-profile celebrities including Harry Styles, Jared Leto and Elton John.
