Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[thiago:)]

Gosh, Vogue Business also confirmed...

 

[Salvatore]

This episode was not on my card for 2025 (or any year for that matter) of the series Designer Musical Chairs. The drama continues !

Congrats to them I guess.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

So, it’s really happening, isn’t it? Loewe is in such a great place right now. I can’t believe they’d risk that success with a new creative direction. On the other hand, someone new at Proenza Schouler sounds exciting. That brand is overdue for a makeover.

 

[BalkaniStaCouture]

 

[Xone]

Loewe is in such a great place right now. I can’t believe they’d risk that success with a new creative direction.

I know right?...i'm curious LVMH wanted to get rid of MG? JWA ask for Dior?...because yes normally they changed when the brand is underperforming....The behind the scenes of this BIG change must be interesting...

Also for PS, they are not in a bad place right now, of course it's a small company but still it's not a bad business now...the article at WDD smoothly suggest that Patrick Ervell could be the CD ....

 

[Lola701]

I really like what Grace is doing, she has a voice and a vision and I love that.
Ohh I just refreshed my mind with what he has done at marni so far. as a huge fashion lover and enthusiast I find it very difficult to desire anything that Risso does. Very pseudo intellectual stuff that i would say is very difficult to translate into retail. I wonder if it sells at all??

It’s interesting because I don’t actually think that Grace has a voice. There’s nothing distinctive about her clothes so, I think having a big name could benefit her. But a big name with her aesthetic could work.

I know right?...i'm curious LVMH wanted to get rid of MG? JWA ask for Dior?...because yes normally they changed when the brand is underperforming....The behind the scenes of this BIG change must be interesting...

Dior had a big change in 2023: Delphine Arnault became the CEO.
And since then, she hasn’t made a decision, except for having Rihanna as the face of J’Adore that put a stamp on her new leadership.

It’s better to change when things are going well.

So a new creative leadership will signal the real beginning of her era as the CEO of Dior. Much like when she joined Vuitton, she decided to hire Nicolas.

Even if she chose MGC, it was under the leadership of Beccari. As someone who seems to enjoy fashion, her decision seems logical.
The competition is moving (Chanel) so it’s time to play a fair game.

 

[style_expert]

The devil works hard, but Anna Wintour works harder. The Proenza Schouler guys taking the helm at Loewe feels like the appointment no one ever asked for. Over the past decade, JWA has transformed Loewe into such a strong and desirable brand that it seems they're now betting on the brand's inherent value and awareness being robust enough to survive under two rather unoriginal, uninspiring voices.

As a very occasional customer, I can't help but wonder—what will happen to Loewe menswear?

 

[StylishCynic]

The devil works hard, but Anna Wintour works harder. The Proenza Schouler guys taking the helm at Loewe feels like the appointment no one ever asked for. Over the past decade, JWA has transformed Loewe into such a strong and desirable brand that it seems they're now betting on the brand's inherent value and awareness being robust enough to survive under two rather unoriginal, uninspiring voices.

As a very occasional customer, I can't help but wonder—what will happen to Loewe menswear?

Similar but different –Laurent Sherman scooped last year that Proenza was developing menswear that would premiere this spring.

Perhaps all of that work will simply transition to inform their Loewe?

 

[NYLA22]

I know right?...i'm curious LVMH wanted to get rid of MG? JWA ask for Dior?...because yes normally they changed when the brand is underperforming....The behind the scenes of this BIG change must be interesting...

Also for PS, they are not in a bad place right now, of course it's a small company but still it's not a bad business now...the article at WDD smoothly suggest that Patrick Ervell could be the CD ....

Patrik would be an interesting choice, since he has typically only done menswear (if I remember correctly). Having said that, his "vibe" seems to be in line with PS, and I think he has been personal friends with them for years and gets their aesthetic, so maybe it all makes sense for this job.

 

[fenty]

I may be one of the only few who doesn't understand JWA's Loewe and I'm glad he's leaving. If the PS boys bring back Narciso Rodriguez's vibe I am all for it!

 

[Nimsay]

One must acknowledge that Mary Grace at Fendi does present an improvement over her predecessor, Kim J, particularly in clothing construction. Her designs provide a level of craftsmanship that the brand has lacked under the latter's direction.

It is also essential to consider that the vast majority of Fendi boutiques have primarily stocked the boutique line rather than the runway pieces. These were typically found at the pinnacle Fendi boutiques; Fifth Avenue, Bond Street, etc.

The Fendi collection most widely accessible to the public is the boutique line and it has often been wanting in terms of both craftsmanship and design. Under Mary Grace, there is hope for an elevation of this line. Yes it will likely be covered in FF.

It seems to me that Nicolas' Louis Vuitton has become the direct heir to Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi legacy. Vuitton has become the "futuristic" label within the LVMH portfolio, holding the space that Karl once had for Fendi.

Transitioning Fendi from avant-garde, space-age attire to a more classical Roman-inspired wardrobe makes sense since Fendi is Roman. We should be cheering that MGC's vision find's an organic home.

Karl's Fendi Donna has already gravitated toward Nicolas’ Louis Vuitton and the fashion elite have followed suit.

As for Mary Grace’s vision for Fendi Donna, I am confident it will flourish. Her approach will undoubtedly elevate the RTW presence for the brand, and it seems we going to see full Zucca ensembles for at least a decade to come.

 

[Nimsay]

As for Loewe, one could argue that their entire enterprise is built upon the handbag. The ready-to-wear items I encounter are often basic pieces with the logo. Only a select few of the JWA-designed runway creations manage to make it into wider distribution. As others have observed, the less flattering runway pieces seem to linger in stores unsold and overlooked.

I heard of a Loewe boutique opening in Palm Beach and was somewhat surprised. Given this news, it would seem they are preparing to shift toward JWA auto-pilot. With the two guys doing more wearable JWA it should stock the stores with better RTW options. Copying others is what they've been doing at Proenza this whole time and why LVMH wanted them.

LVMH is putting Celine and Loewe on auto-pilot.

 

[Xone]

Patrik would be an interesting choice, since he has typically only done menswear (if I remember correctly). Having said that, his "vibe" seems to be in line with PS, and I think he has been personal friends with them for years and gets their aesthetic, so maybe it all makes sense for this job.

He is the Men’s studio Director for PS according to WWD that’s why they suggested that he will be the one…

 

[Xone]

TRUSS on Instagram: "A TRUSS exclusive: it is reported that a documentary movie on the Antwerp Six will be released in 2026. According to our sources the feature is in pre-production and intends to feature interviews with the six as well as other key contributors to the period in which they rose to success. It is not yet confirmed if the “plus” (Martin Margiela) will be involved, though there are already multiple documentaries on his work. The Antwerp Six refers to a group of influential designers who graduated from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in the early 1980s and helped put Belgian fashion on the global map. The group—Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk Van Saene, and Marina Yee—became known for their avant-garde approach, blending unconventional tailoring with artistic experimentation. Their collective debut at London Fashion Week in 1986 marked a pivotal moment, reshaping the narrative around European fashion by challenging minimalism with bold textures, deconstruction, and cultural references. Despite taking individual paths, their legacy remains integral to contemporary design."