Louis Vuitton Homme’s history does not possess the legacy that one might expect from such an esteemed house.
The original men’s collection, in the 90s, bore a striking resemblance to what Givenchy Homme offers today—largely defined by logo-driven, minimalist designs. The Monogram was introduced at a later stage, leaving the Damier pattern as the primary motif for nearly a decade. The defining item here is Damier textured intarsia half-zip - perfect for financial analyss.
During Marc Jacobs' tenure the runway line rarely made it to store. Only the Paris stores receiving very limited quantities of what they did decide to produce. The in-store boutique line was timeless and not groundbreaking. I myself gifted a peacoat from this era and its quality and relevance remain undiminished. I saw it 6 years after I gifted it and was impressed that the golden anchor buttons kept their luster.
It was not until Virgil Abloh that LV began shedding its more utilitarian RTW in favor of a more fashion-forward direction. This marked the beginning of the brand’s genuine foray into the realm of contemporary menswear.
With his natural successor, KJ the evolution from VA was a success IMO...
In this time, Louis Vuitton has also significantly strengthened its studio team, resulting in a contemporary boutique line that differs markedly from Marc’s era. While still anchored in timeless classics, the current collection demonstrates distinct details making them uniquely Vuitton.
The collaboration with Pharrell Williams, however, represents the most fully realized manifestation of Louis Vuitton Homme to date. The collection feels as though it exists within a fully formed lifestyle.
I think the match of design team with Pharrell works for this phase just like KJ worked right after VA.
