Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[bc collector]

It’s a pity that such a handsome man would make so many bad looking, weirdly cut clothes. He won’t be missed…Even by those who enjoyed his work, because I know they didn’t loved it enough to buy them and be caught wearing them.

I know what you mean and partially agree. But you also have to acknowledge that Bally has never been as interesting as it's been during Bellotti's tenure. Good luck to the new owners, considering how clueless they have proved to be so far.

 

[fashionmarketeditor]

It’s a pity that such a handsome man would make so many bad looking, weirdly cut clothes. He won’t be missed…Even by those who enjoyed his work, because I know they didn’t loved it enough to buy them and be caught wearing them.

Myself and a lot of fashion insiders I know regularly buy his clothes. Accessories too. The Plume loafers and certain Beckett bags are a favorite.

 

[Thefrenchy]

If what I heard from people in Milan is true, no wonder he left Bally.

Apparently things were messy under the previous tenure, but got even messier with the new owners (I'm told it was a mix between total incompetence from some heads and lack of support). They named some guy from Philipp Plein as CEO (Bally: Ennio Fontana nommé directeur général) which is a red flag in itself, and allegedly they're planning to shift the brand towards a different segment. No wonder he jumped out. I kind of saw it coming when they announced the name of those new US owners. I mean, Escada and Club Monaco are in their portfolio... I'm not sure I got this right because I almost fell off my chair when I was told - but apparently the Bally store in London is also a Club Monaco store ????? Anyone in London can confirm?

It's going to be interesting to see his last show. I didn't buy anything from his Bally but I found his point of view kind of interesting. I think Lola and I disagree on this ( ), but for me they don't need to be another TODS.

His future wife was the assistant of Michela Tafuri, the right hand of Alessandro Michele at Gucci. She joined Bally with him, didn’t know she’s now at Valentino, but I’m not surprised ‘cause AM brought all his collaborators with him

Not true, she didn't work for Bally.

 

[vogue22]

Saw this on Twitter and couldn’t resist sharing it here for a good laugh.
Pharrell, the "honorary son of France", turning Louis Vuitton into a celebrity zoo is now a "cultural milestone." They even claim this Arnault puppet is more “ingratiated into the fabric of France” than Ghesquière. What reality are these people living in?

 

[Thefrenchy]

^ Just for reference, this is the person tweeting Louis Pisano apologizes for rumor about A$AP Rocky and Rihanna

 

[LadyJunon]

Saw this on Twitter and couldn’t resist sharing it here for a good laugh.
Pharrell, the "honorary son of France", turning Louis Vuitton into a celebrity zoo is now a "cultural milestone." They even claim this Arnault puppet is more “ingratiated into the fabric of France” than Ghesquière. What reality are these people living in?

View attachment 1340369 View attachment 1340370

ISTG Ghesquiere is not respected at that house at all.

 

[proseccotabis]

Myself and a lot of fashion insiders I know regularly buy his clothes. Accessories too. The Plume loafers and certain Beckett bags are a favorite.

I have to agree. Great mocassini and cardholders

 

[proseccotabis]

but for me they don't need to be another TODS.

Without the logo I have a tough time distinguishing between Bally and Tod’s….

 

[PDFSD]

His future wife was the assistant of Michela Tafuri, the right hand of Alessandro Michele at Gucci. She joined Bally with him, didn’t know she’s now at Valentino, but I’m not surprised ‘cause AM brought all his collaborators with him

yeah she does beauty part now at valentino recently started they told me just before the first new show with AM

bally part i never heard to be honest no idea i only know now because of the bally exit news.

the fun fact is :
yes there is a lot of gucci folks dripping in at valentino the most close to AM where fired on the day ancora men started including that Tafuri and around 5 others because the were friends with ancora boy before but because the rif between gucci and valentino people that chosen AM side and did not attend ancora boy wedding so as revenge he fired them on the day that was his first day in office at gucci.

rome is small town fendi valentino gucci there were lots of friends and crossing going on just like paris milan everyone knows someone at another house or slept with or is sleeping with lol. straight and gay

etc etc

 

[Nimsay]

Louis Vuitton Homme’s history does not possess the legacy that one might expect from such an esteemed house.

The original men’s collection, in the 90s, bore a striking resemblance to what Givenchy Homme offers today—largely defined by logo-driven, minimalist designs. The Monogram was introduced at a later stage, leaving the Damier pattern as the primary motif for nearly a decade. The defining item here is Damier textured intarsia half-zip - perfect for financial analyss.

During Marc Jacobs' tenure the runway line rarely made it to store. Only the Paris stores receiving very limited quantities of what they did decide to produce. The in-store boutique line was timeless and not groundbreaking. I myself gifted a peacoat from this era and its quality and relevance remain undiminished. I saw it 6 years after I gifted it and was impressed that the golden anchor buttons kept their luster.

It was not until Virgil Abloh that LV began shedding its more utilitarian RTW in favor of a more fashion-forward direction. This marked the beginning of the brand’s genuine foray into the realm of contemporary menswear.

With his natural successor, KJ the evolution from VA was a success IMO...

In this time, Louis Vuitton has also significantly strengthened its studio team, resulting in a contemporary boutique line that differs markedly from Marc’s era. While still anchored in timeless classics, the current collection demonstrates distinct details making them uniquely Vuitton.

The collaboration with Pharrell Williams, however, represents the most fully realized manifestation of Louis Vuitton Homme to date. The collection feels as though it exists within a fully formed lifestyle.

I think the match of design team with Pharrell works for this phase just like KJ worked right after VA.

 

[Xone]

Without the logo I have a tough time distinguishing between Bally and Tod’s….

Honestly there are several brands in Milan on the same style as Bally or Tod's that can be mistaken...

 

[proseccotabis]

milan everyone knows someone at another house or slept with or is sleeping with lol. straight and gay

Painfully true lol *cries *

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Louis Vuitton Homme’s history does not possess the legacy that one might expect from such an esteemed house.

The original men’s collection, in the 90s, bore a striking resemblance to what Givenchy Homme offers today—largely defined by logo-driven, minimalist designs.

I think the first Vuitton mens comes from around 2004... Marc was appointed 97 or 98 and at the beginning he only made womens...

I think the match of design team with Pharrell works for this phase just like KJ worked right after VA.

Am I reading you correctly?
Kim Jones started doing Vuitton mens in 2011 and was succeeded by Virgil Abloh who started in 2018.
After Virgil's death, the studio worked for a while alone till Pharrell arrived.

Sorry if I misread you, English is not my first language.

In any case, without denying that Pharrell's Vuitton is the most developed and commercially successful stage of the "Vuitton Mens project", I cannot get rid of the impression that this collection was designed ticking boxes.
The teddy, check. The logoed perfecto, check. The monogramed denim, check. The sneakers, check. The camo print, check. The zipped hoodie, check. The cloudy print, check.
Put black ties in half of the looks to give some appearence of cohesiveness (like the fur collars at Prada).
Ready.

 

[LostInNJ]

I think the first Vuitton mens comes from around 2004... Marc was appointed 97 or 98 and at the beginning he only made womens...


Am I reading you correctly?
Kim Jones started doing Vuitton mens in 2011 and was succeeded by Virgil Abloh who started in 2018.
After Virgil's death, the studio worked for a while alone till Pharrell arrived.

Sorry if I misread you, English is not my first language.

In any case, without denying that Pharrell's Vuitton is the most developed and commercially successful stage of the "Vuitton Mens project", I cannot get rid of the impression that this collection was designed ticking boxes.
The teddy, check. The logoed perfecto, check. The monogramed denim, check. The sneakers, check. The camo print, check. The zipped hoodie, check. The cloudy print, check.
Put black ties in half of the looks to give some appearence of cohesiveness (like the fur collars at Prada).
Ready.

I feel like that is the problem with quite a few brands today. The collections are designed with sales fully in mind, as opposed to something purely creative.

Things that sell well need to be produced season after season so that sales continue to be strong. The merchandising team will be thrilled because they kind of have something for everyone. It certainly leaves much to be desired from an artistic standpoint, but because it sells it has become the norm.

Even at Celine (whilst Hedi was there), logo tees were churned out season after season along with hoodies with CELINE written on it. That product moves. Like it or not.