Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Lola701]

I hate all accounts, from diet prada to 1granny to the blue box to Hautelemode or whoever
All ***-kissing because they want to be invited to things and get freebies

Somehow, the green box is the only decent one (but I know some members here would disagree with me on that)

I like the HauteleMode kid. At least he is providing an entertaining content.
I think that people loves the green box only because they are validating the bad opinions people have anyway. When someone hates a collection and wants their opinion to be validated and no editors or publications is doing it, you have the green box. And on the opposite, you have the blue box.

I’ll say it. I think the blue one is annoying because it’s just a PR but I feel like green box is going to be even more annoying because they all wants to be part of that world. And have to eat and pay the bills. Lol.

So many people happy for her, is she that well known?

Yes. In the Italian fashion scene (who is smaller than the Parisian one in reality) and for people who evolves around the Armani galaxy.

I mean it’s huge promotion. After 15 years, it’s well deserved.

I’m sure Armani will give the CEO role to his niece before selling to L’Oreal.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

When it comes to integrity aka "bullying designers and industry professionals", nowhere can beat TFS. That's why I love all your comments!

I always wonder if I know half the memebers on TFS in real life

 

[vogue22]

I always wonder if I know half the memebers on TFS in real life

You most likely do aha most of them either live in Paris or Milan and work in fashion so yeah.

 

[yslforever]

I’m sure Armani will give the CEO role to his niece before selling to L’Oreal.

Maybe but hurry up because Roberta is already 65, if it was meant to be, it should have happened sooner, but I suspect Giorgio has the type of ego Pierre Cardin had : not planning anything outside or after him.
L'Oréal will eat the crumbs.
And on a related note, they are currently closer to eat Saint-Laurent than expected.

 

[yslforever]

Maybe but hurry up because Roberta is already 65, if it was meant to be, it should have happened sooner, but I suspect Giorgio has the type of ego Pierre Cardin had : not planning anything outside or after him.
L'Oréal will eat the crumbs.
And on a related note, they are currently closer to eat Saint-Laurent than expected.

It’s the kind of last resort plan for Kering, if Demna’s Gucci turns really bad ( if or when ?) and if Trotter’s BV flops.
A bit like Capri selling off brands right now.

That’s being discussed at the highest level but some Kering execs , the ones who helped turn Anthony’s tenure into a 3 billion machine, are vehemently against and argue they can push the brand at higher levels and don’t need to sell it.

It’s not so unexpected.
Perfume and beauty companies buying back the fashion operations is super common ; Puig and Dries, Lauder and Tom Ford, JPG, L’Oreal and Mugler, etc.

 

[Lola701]

^^
Don’t you think that they will try to eliminate Brioni, Alexander McQueen, Boucheron, Pomelatto, Dodo and others before getting rid of Saint Laurent, BV and Balenciaga?
Weirdly I can see them trying to sell some of those brands to the Richemont people. They are already in business with some of their brands through their Kering eyewear entity. Chloe and Alaia eyewear is under Kering eyewear.

I was also wondering on a long term if they are planning to integrate Courreges in the Kering portfolio.

I have a hard time understanding the strategy behind Artemis. What’s the point of having majority stakes in Giambattista Valli? What’s the long term goal with Courreges?

 

[yslforever]

^^
Don’t you think that they will try to eliminate Brioni, Alexander McQueen, Boucheron, Pomelatto, Dodo and others before getting rid of Saint Laurent, BV and Balenciaga?
Weirdly I can see them trying to sell some of those brands to the Richemont people. They are already in business with some of their brands through their Kering eyewear entity. Chloe and Alaia eyewear is under Kering eyewear.

I was also wondering on a long term if they are planning to integrate Courreges in the Kering portfolio.

I have a hard time understanding the strategy behind Artemis. What’s the point of having majority stakes in Giambattista Valli? What’s the long term goal with Courreges?

I think the brands you have cited are less immediately desirable, harder to sell, more niches, and L'Oréal has no direct interests in them, while L'Oréal is obviously observing YSL with great interest, it's one a their great money-maker.
L'Oréal is mass-market oriented, Armani & YSL would fit easily into that strategy.

Richemont can obviously add Boucheron, Pomelatto, Dodo, Queeling to their portfolio very easily but the might fear saturation and want to diversify.
As for the fashion brands, the Rupert have hits right now (Alaia and Chloe) but lots of stagnation too (the new Dunhill), like everybody else.

I really don't know anything about Courrèges, it's never talked in our little chats, it's always about Gucci, BV or YSL.

 

[Lola701]

I think the brands you have cited are less immediately desirable, harder to sell, more niches, and L'Oréal has no direct interests in them, while L'Oréal is obviously observing YSL with great interest, it's one a their great money-maker.
L'Oréal is mass-market oriented, Armani & YSL would fit easily into that strategy.

Richemont can obviously add Boucheron, Pomelatto, Dodo, Queeling to their portfolio very easily but the might fear saturation and want to diversify.
As for the fashion brands, the Rupert have hits right now (Alaia and Chloe) but lots of stagnation too (the new Dunhill), like everybody else.

I really don't know anything about Courrèges, it's never talked in our little chats, it's always about Gucci, BV or YSL.

Thank you for your insights always. I think the next AG will be very interesting again. Sales are Gucci are not going to improve for quite some time, Demna coming is not received well and I’m sure a lot of questions will be asked about it.
And also, the fact that they lost a talent to Chanel while he could have been proposed the big brand role is not necessarily good in terms of optics.

L’Oreal snatching Armani or YSL would finally make them succeed in the fashion sphere. I already think that what they have done with Mugler is impressive considering that the Clarins people never managed to make anything out of it.

But I have to say that I’m so much more excited by the perspective of the Bettencourt-Meyers having all Armani than all YSL. Armani beauty is still quite coherent and luxurious while for me, YSL beauty is one step away to look like Azzaro or Diesel…Both licenses owned by them.

 

[proseccotabis]

So many people happy for her, is she that well known?

Oh wow another person from an aristocratic & well connected family promoted in fashion, what a huge surprise!

 

[youthinasia]

Duran Lantink confirmed at Jean Paul Gaultier

 

[Rigida]

There is going to be a lot of debut show next September!

Chanel: Mathieu Blazy
Dior: JW Anderson (or maybe his debut will be during Menswear/ Couture?)
Celine: Michael Rider
Gucci: Demna
Bottega: Louise Trotter
Versace: Dario Vitale
Loewe: Proenza Boys
Jil Sander: Simone Bellotti
Carven: Mark Howard
Balenciaga: ??

Did I miss something?

+
Margiela: Glenn Martens
JPG: Duran Lantink

 

[yslforever]

I did not have Kim Jones at Balenciaga in my wish list… hope the rumors aren’t true.

 

[Salvatore]

I did not have Kim Jones at Balenciaga in my wish list… hope the rumors aren’t true.

Oh no. Is this all we have ?

 

[yslforever]

Oh no. Is this all we have ?

According to green box....
It makes senses for Kim Jones, he wanted womens and menswear, and there is a large couture department. He is not unfit for reestablish a more elevated Balenciaga, but after so many collabs he diluted his relevance...

 

[Kanzai]

What's the point of picking that K.J person, menswear? Martine Rose is mile better than him in that regard. Balenciaga is the last couture house at Kering, the arrival of Kim will be totally a doomed end.
I never hated any designers of Balenciaga, but Kim Jones

 

[proseccotabis]

According to green box....
It makes senses for Kim Jones, he wanted womens and menswear, and there is a large couture department. He is not unfit for reestablish a more elevated Balenciaga, but after so many collabs he diluted his relevance...

I’d rather then move him to Burberry and send DL to Balenciaga if we’re talking musical chairs again… KJ in Balenciaga is like hiring Marc Jacobs for Hermes imo!

 

[Olaffo]

My gut feeling is that they’ll f*ck this appointment up as they did with many others so wouldn’t worry too much. There are also speculations that Balenciaga will have two designers like LV so maybe Kim would go to menswear and Mulier to womenswear.

 

[yslforever]

My gut feeling is that they’ll f*ck this appointment up as they did with many others so wouldn’t worry too much. There are also speculations that Balenciaga will have two designers like LV so maybe Kim would go to menswear and Mulier to womenswear.

Well their Q1 call is on the 23th and the AG on the 24th, so I expect any announcement on those occasions, because they f*cked the Gucci one, or more accurately the Gucci one f*cked them.

 

[yslforever]

I’d rather then move him to Burberry and send DL to Balenciaga if we’re talking musical chairs again… KJ in Balenciaga is like hiring Marc Jacobs for Hermes imo!

I don’t see how Daniel Lee can go back to Kering after his firing from BV. Kering sure knows how to burn bridges.

Also no news about Filippo Grazioli ?

 

[proseccotabis]

I don’t see how Daniel Lee can go back to Kering after his firing from BV. Kering sure knows how to burn bridges.

Also no news about Filippo Grazioli ?

Diplomacy and understanding is not Kering's strengths thats for sure
also curious to hear about some Grazioli news