Diffusion Collections

[Meg]

With the outbreak of mid-priced difussion collects (I'm thinking Michael by Michael Kors, been around a while I believe but O by Oscar de la Renta, the new Chayalan line) I was thinking....would not the best time to buy something from a diffusion line be when it came out? That would be when the designer is trying to launch it and thus actually involved with it, and creating all the pieces. Obviously Ralph Lauren doesn't design for all of his various lines. Or do you think that with certain diffusion lines like Miu Miu the pieces (depending on the season) are more or less always quality and designed by the head designer? I'm curious to know peoples thoughts

 

[marcj]

Interesting question..... I dont have an answer, but it seems that some designers control their "diffusion" lines more than others...For instance, Marc Jacobs with Marc by Marc Jacobs. Im not really sure I would consider Miu Miu a diffusion line, its more of its own entity.

 

[Mutterlein]

I think Marc and Miu Miu get a heavy level of involvment by Marc Jacobs and Miuccia respectively. Some lines like all the crappy ones Dior comes out with are questionble.

 

[Plumour]

Originally posted by marcj@Aug 6 2004, 12:31 AM
Interesting question..... I dont have an answer, but it seems that some designers control their "diffusion" lines more than others...For instance, Marc Jacobs with Marc by Marc Jacobs. Im not really sure I would consider Miu Miu a diffusion line, its more of its own entity.

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agreed.
I consider Miu Miu with Prada nothing like Marc by MJ with MJ or D&G with Dolce & Gabbana.

 

[Meg]

while I agree that Miu Miu is in and of it's own at the same time it is always quite similar to Prada in terms of mood...

 

[faust]

A diffusion line is purely a commercial move, so you should really think about what you are buying. My question, as an idealist, is exactly what you asked, how much actual thought and creative process by the head designer is involved? The answer is not much, if any. While the likes of Chalayan and Bikkimbergs might be an exception, I highly doubt that Jacobs even looks at the Marc line. I also beleive (but not 100% sure) that some designers just license their name out. Like D&G or Plein Sud Jeans. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. For me it's become a non-question, I don't buy a diffusion line, because one, you always compromise the quality, two, diffusion lines are much less creative and much more generic. However, it doesn't mean that I look disdainfully on it. I am just at a point where my wardrobe really doesn't need basics. So I am really content with buying one-two special pieces a season.

Another thing is, you should probably keep in mind the cost of buying something let's say in H&M where there is no big payoff to a famous designer against something of a diffusion line where that element is present, and then juxtapose it agains the entire price and the quality of the item you get (keeping everything in mind). I hope that sounded clear enough .

 

[orlem]

Faust, I love everything you said, especially about building up basics and then only buying 1-2 pieces each season as a way of owning honest designer pieces rather than compromised pieces from bridge lines. I don't have a basic wardrobe that I'm satisfied with yet, but as soon as I do, I want to be following this philosophy. It will take patience but eventually it will lead to a great closet.

I'm also against diffusion lines on principle. The most creative pieces are always either very expensive or very inexpensive (the inexpensive often being vintage, in my opinion). It's in the middle where fashion starts becoming cookie-cutter, because that's where most people tend to lean. Diffusion lines are guilty in the cookie-cutter aspect because they are aimed towards the pedestrian. Diffusion line items are easier to wear than runway pieces, so the "mood" (as other were discussing above) becomes less genuine, even if the designer is totally involved in the creation process.

mehg -- FYI Micheal by Michael Kors is only right now coming out to replace Kors by Michael Kors.

 

[mikeijames]

i think that many diffusion lines are different in spirit than their parent lines. i so rarely buy clothes from prada, but often am wooed by offerings from miu miu...on the other hand i would never buy a pair of shoes from miu miu when a prada shoe is just around the corner.

and when i say different in spirit i think of lines like emporio armani (is it even considered diffusion?) and versace jeans couture...where they really don't match up with their bigger lines...really totally different. i have never bought a piece of versace collection, but i have fallen victim to a pair of torn jeans from vjc. and i swear by emporio while very rarely think about giorgio outside of the office.

 

[purechris]

I agree with you as well, Faust.
I have reached a point of disillusionment with the whole superstar designer phase of fashion. How much of any collection is actually designed by the name on the label. Most create the mood and their team goes from there. I know this isn't the case with all, but many.
Serephelle is right, Michael replace Kors after they were bought out. I used to sell Kors and found it to be an outstanding line when compared to the main line. I love the classic American luxury, but find Michael Kors to be an outrageously priced collection. D&G on the other hand I HATED when I carried it.
Miucca herself thinks of Miu Miu as an entirely different line, not a diffusion. The inspiration is coming from the same woman, but Miu Miu is often targeted to a younger, quirkier customer.