Dior Homme S/S 10 Paris

Oh wow...I've been pretty harsh to KVA before and this is the first collection of his I really like. It's relaxed, well constructed, the shapes newer but not too experimental and the direction is so fresh and new for DH. Even the styling has a balance of rugged sexiness and sleek nonchalance. What makes me like it is how un-tortured this is, even though the details and thought into construction, materials are apparent. A bit of Yohji Yamamoto meets DH. It is also quite different from all the other collections out there playing very safe and traditional. And yes, I'm so over Hedi Slimane, ever since Karl Lagerfeld squeezed his chubby cheeks into his tight black rocker jeans and goth bondage boots...yeah, I know, not his fault, but he should have known to move on!

high five. took the words right out of my mouth...or head...:ninja:
 
Hedi won a great bundle of fans, with no exception of me, but why? Looking back through all thoese season, I'm questioning. I have to say, it's not all bcs of his design, her boys really helped a lot! Those waif like super skinny beautiful boys. And also the skinner size captured a lot of female customers.
I have to say KVA is such a unlucky poor guy and he lacks his own signature, too easily influnence by other designer.
 
This is the first time in a long time i've found a Dior Homme collection to be covetable, fall 06 is the last for me. This time it is not at all because of the boys.
 
Dior Homme Men's RTW Spring 2010
Dior Homme Men's RTW Spring 2010
by WWD Staff

Posted Sunday June 28, 2009

From WWD.COM

Add Note Since his appointment two years ago, Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche has wrestled with the suit, which is the house’s signature. For spring, he delivered his best interpretation yet with an ultralight collection that was elegant, directional and recognizably Dior. First, Van Assche introduced a new Dior Homme trouser — roomy, pleated and tapered at the ankle. Above the waist, he played with transparency and layering, leaving two-button cotton jackets unlined to reveal their construction and the raw-edge shirts and waistcoats underneath. An unlined silk raincoat, which floated over a Japanese cotton jacket with delicate raw edges, was a standout. Van Assche mixed sartorial savoir faire with more street-inspired elements in just the right doses, and with plenty of confidence. Sleeveless jackets, for example, were edgy and soigné, while leather lapels on formalwear were striking.
 
damn, i was so excited that this might of been a gareth pugh collection =(
 
Full Collection

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men.style.com
 
This is a nice collection by Kris Van Assche
Good Collection
 
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Hmm actually, not that bad. I like the slight harem pant and the fabric choices HOWEVER the color palette is beyond drab. I am hating all this drabness I have been seeing lately. There are CLEVER ways to use colors. When I see palettes like this with nothing but black, grey and beige (seriously, beige?!) I start to think that the designer is a little uninspired.
 
honestly, i miss hedi. dior homme used to represent such a counterweight to so many forces in menswear. i love my gallianos and i love my jils and i love my band of outsiders and i love my lanvins, but dior homme used to give us such a pure, distilled, clean collection with such ARDENT directional pieces that we could not ignore it. now, while none of this stuff offends me so much, it's kind of irrelevant.

and i feel it's not the fault of the designer because he can do much more creative things as evidenced by his eponymous line (especially before he signed on with dior homme). there's something arye at the house of dior because the creativity of their two clothing designers continues to be under-utilized.

seriously, how much more did hedi slimane want because i can't imagine this stuff sells in the same way. can you imagine any woman frothing over these designs? or any editor?
 

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