Dior Homme S/S 10 Paris

[helmut.newton]

I thought this was a particularly strong collection. FINALLY, Van Assche offers us a non-skinny pant that doesn't look completely and utterly ridiculous.

I thought this was very clean and precise; but perhaps the colour palette was a little limiting. Overall though, I think it was one of the best menswear collections in Paris.

 

[helmut.newton]

From the San Francisco Times:

Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche's spring-summer 2010 collection of sheer suits with fluttering raw seams and visible shoulder-pads had the star-studded fashion crowd at Sunday's show abuzz with rumors that it would be his last for the Paris-based luxury label.


Following the display, some top fashion journalists hinted that they thought Van Assche was on his way out. Unusually, some declined to comment on the record about the collection, which featured low-crotched, high-water pants and sheer Mao-collared shirts that gave the models a faintly Amish air.


Van Assche — a Belgian who showed his eponymous line earlier in the week to mixed reviews — also delivered loads of sleeveless blazers and thin-lapeled jackets in fabric so sheer that the network of seams and white shoulder-pads shone through.
One model wore a blazer that had been picked virtually clean — with no sleeves and just two triangular panels over the shoulder where the back should be.
To be fair, rumors of Van Assche's imminent departure from Dior have swirled periodically since he took over in 2007 from the wildly popular Hedi Slimane, whose snug-fitting rocker suits are the stuff of fashion legend.


And it's true that Van Assche's emphasis on lightness and transparency in the spring-summer 2010 collection were spot on-trend: Sheer shirts and unlined blazers have dominated Paris' menswear runways. Sleeveless blazers, which at Dior Homme look like slightly oversized vests with jutting shoulders, were also a big look for next summer.
Then why was Dior Chairman Bernard Arnault, France's richest man, pulling such a dour face during the display? Perhaps it was the heat, which had everyone in the crowd — which included Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld — schvitzing.


Or perhaps Arnault was fretting about how to market the collection. At this difficult time for retail — when many other labels have gone back to the basics, delivering conservative, traditional menswear — how does one sell a collection that lacks elements as basic as blazer sleeves and backs?

 

[homeboy]

In my opinion the collection highly resemble his own lines. He has yet to redefine the "new Dior Homme", and what he has designed to far has merely been random collection sharing no common ground.

 

[JordanB]

I actually really, really like this. Definitely Kris's best collection to date. He has really redeemed himself in my eyes with this collection. Possibly one of my favorites!

 

[kiddokiddo]

I don't hate it, despise how "borrowed" and "influenced" it might be. There are some good looking pieces in the collection. Is it too late for KVA? maybe.

 

[Dkammern]

This is what the last 3 (4?) collections should've been like! this DOES feel like a continuation of his first collection for dior. maybe just a little too much on the 'trendy' side.
but it's good, good, good, good! and everything bad i've said about KVA at dior, i take it back if it's gonna be like this from now on promise

if the stupid tights and bright blues are over, i'm committed to dior again!

 

[Ianastar]

This is way better than anything Hedi did. This is the first Dior Homme collection I have liked.

 

[simons]

i actually like this. it actually looks well fitted and put together unlike his previous collections (last fall wasnt too bad). i just have the same problem like everyone said, he hasn't defined what the new dior homme is. every single season is so completely different and while that's what one might expect from designers each season, there's no consistent voice or vision. i think kva is too easily influenced by other designers.. id rather have slimane (ya i didnt want to bring him up but hey whatever) overdone aesthetic than a designer who is taking what is "trendy" and other designers are doing and sewing a dior tag on it.

i was all for a new dior homme but after how many seasons, he (or management, i dont know who to blame either) does not get it. i will say that its the best effort so far after the his first collection which even though safe was clean sharp and well done.. that's dior homme.

who would have thought that after so many seasons before of dior homme being a forefront in mens fashion that it would take a backseat and just be another replica of everything else they're undoing everything slimane built.. i guess you have to burn it down before you can rebuilt it.

 

[elle_gb]

It look really fresh.

 

[mikeijames]

This is way better than anything Hedi did. This is the first Dior Homme collection I have liked.

what's not to like about the perfect suit? (from hedi's last spring collection). i mean, it's STILL the most crystallized vision for minimalism we have.

men.style.com

 

[b9409]

really really good.... major props.

 

[Demelza]

seems like other collections are inspired by Dior this season...

 

[simons]

seems like other collections are inspired by Dior this season...

huh? inspired by this dior? this season? ..

 

[Street_a_Licious]

what's not to like about the perfect suit? (from hedi's last spring collection). i mean, it's STILL the most crystallized vision for minimalism we have.

men.style.com

ianastar was talking about collections. not specific pieces.

 

[JuiceMajor]

i do like this collection...less of the trying too hard attittude!

 

[Benzo]

An interesting collection from KVA.
Perhaps lots of ppl missed Hedi a lot...

 

[Enigma89]

I didn't like this at all and don't see this selling very well.

 

[macchiom]

Definitely the strongest Dior Homme collection in years. Love the transparent jackets.

 

[b9409]

^ me too. It is even more noteworthy since they could have ended up so tacky or lousy.

 

[macchiom]

Exactly. I can’t wait to see whether they live up to my expectations when they hit the stores.