Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel?

[Creative]

Then that can only be Jacquemus if by change of generation means poorly constructed garments and a one trick pony vision.

 

[PDFSD]

CHANEL executive warns luxury industry worst hit by customer fatigue​

Posted On October 30, 2024 CPP-LUXURY

In an interview with Swiss newspaper Le Temps, Frédéric Grangié said the industry’s most worrying issue is customer fatigue and the trivialisation of luxury. “Customers are tired of being bludgeoned by luxury,” Grangié said, forecasting two years of difficult business.

The biggest challenge for the luxury sector today is not the general macroeconomic context or the weakness of key markets like China, but customer fatigue with a luxury industry that seems increasingly banal, CHANEL Watches and Jewellery president Frédéric Grangié told Swiss newspaper Le Temps.

While the first two factors are cyclical and will pass, “the third factor is much more worrying, and explains why this crisis could last longer than others. One could call it the trivialisation of luxury; I call it ‘luxury fatigue’,” Grangie said. “Customers are tired of being bludgeoned by luxury,” the executive added.
Exquisite, exclusive creations are at the heart of what keeps customers excited about and loyal to a luxury brand.
An overly commercial approach to fuelling luxury growth has weakened the allure brands have held over many years. “Over-distribution is a major risk factor at the moment,” Grangié said.

Chanel has a more exclusive store network than its main competitors, including a footprint in China that is three or four times smaller, shielding it from dampened enthusiasm for luxury in the region, Grangié said. Family ownership that prioritises long-term choices is another strength.
Overall, Grangié warns the next two years will be difficult for the industry. “We’re going to have to be vigilant. But there will be an advantage for houses with exclusive distribution.”
Chanel is one of the houses known for resisting cycles. This is certainly also the case in the turmoil that the luxury industry is currently experiencing. But since the company is not listed on the stock exchange, no interim figures are published – consolidated results are generally given in the spring. Frédéric Grangié chairs the watches and jewelry business. He does not confirm any trends, but his answers indicate that everything is in place to get through this period without any problems: very moderate exposure to China, direct distribution, strategy set for 2050.

 

[nationalsalt]

If that’s the case it will be the team the one dying at Chanel, because finding a Karl in 2024 is just impossible. The context would not allow a designer to develop a career like Karl’s. It just won’t happen. We live in the Instagram era, in the momentum era…

I really doubt they think that, though. You just need to have eyes to see how the industry devores designers and how the industry works. They last 5 years at most in the top, then they fall into irrelevance, people get tired and numbers get red.

It’s like that… they would eventually need to play the game.

I think Marc could’ve been a great option if we were in 2007, now… he is so out of touch.

Hedi I think won’t be able to last for more than 5/6 years… he always ends up arguing with somebody and I think Chanel is not ready for that.

Jacquemus… well we better not talk about him.

Phoebe Philo would’ve been a nice option but she launched his label and I think she doesn’t even care about fashion anymore…

Nicolas is doing terrible at LV.

Who else? These are the only names that could’be had a chance.

Thom Browne?

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

"new balance of power"??
what does this mean?
one designer for womens and... another one for mens?

 

[couturefan]

"new balance of power"??
what does this mean?
one designer for womens and... another one for mens?

One for RTW and one for Couture maybe?