Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Gucci?

[reese06]

She departed creatively more than a decade ago!

Should not be reading this in my work meeting. Everyone asked what i giggled/smiled about while i read this...

I love Donatella but yes. Versace has so much history and things to work from. Hopefully it doesn't go even more into just merchandising when she leaves.

 

[Frederic01]

Michele's gender-fluid approach chased away male clients, negatively impacting menswear sales and the suits are splitting the shows in hopes of winning back that clientele.

Is anyone surprised by this at all? Of course aggressively progressive clothing is not going to generate the level of sales that a luxury conglomerate like Kering expects. Conservative and timeless clothes will always outperform clothes that are avant-garde in the luxury domain for obvious reasons.

Why is it that a brand like Chanel is so successful? It's perceived timeless value which is interwoven with the idea of a certain conservative approach to fashion. Ditto Hermes.

 

[LadyJunon]

Is anyone surprised by this at all? Of course aggressively progressive clothing is not going to generate the level of sales that a luxury conglomerate like Kering expects. Conservative and timeless clothes will always outperform clothes that are avant-garde in the luxury domain for obvious reasons.

I can hear HF Instagram screaming bloody murder.

On a serious note though, I don't understand how someone who spent 20 years at Gucci could not think: "Oh, let's create a few traditional pieces for the stores, so the sales could better support my whimsical, progressive vision.".

That is the first thing every single designer learns.

 

[THD96]

I can hear HF Instagram screaming bloody murder.

On a serious note though, I don't understand how someone who spent 20 years at Gucci could not think: "Oh, let's create a few traditional pieces for the stores, so the sales could better support my whimsical, progressive vision.".

That is the first thing every single designer learns.

Most of the stuff in their store are not runway pieces but basic merchandise like T-shirts with seasonal logos, tracksuits, etc... Their classic best sellers are always in the store.
Gucci's strategy is always about covering all product categories so it is not like more conservative people were left out.

The slowdown in sales only proved that the general public is already tired because there is no evolution in his maximalism aesthetic.

 

[penny609]

Oh sigh, I guess I'm going to miss my darling Michele and his already gimmicky stuff. But at least I felt good with his aesthetics despite not always agreeing with all his choices, especially during the last collection times.

No clue who's going to take Gucci's helm and almost don't wanna know. This musical chair game is tiring at the end of the day. If I weren't high-high on coffee now, I'd go back to my old "L'Officiel 1000 modèles" and have a good rush of dreams right away...

 

[penny609]

Is anyone surprised by this at all? Of course aggressively progressive clothing is not going to generate the level of sales that a luxury conglomerate like Kering expects. Conservative and timeless clothes will always outperform clothes that are avant-garde in the luxury domain for obvious reasons.

Why is it that a brand like Chanel is so successful? It's perceived timeless value which is interwoven with the idea of a certain conservative approach to fashion. Ditto Hermes.

Not surprised at all. I know a woman wearing Gucci and she's never heard of Michele and what she usually wears is far away from his work. It's just labeled Gucci and she thinks she's as expensive as her clothes because of the brand.

 

[Bernie Flood]

Its going to be a female or I see Peter Dundas

or Anthony V.

Tom Ford did the YSL and Gucci at the same time

 

[Lola701]

Most of the stuff in their store are not runway pieces but basic merchandise like T-shirts with seasonal logos, tracksuits, etc... Their classic best sellers are always in the store.
Gucci's strategy is always about covering all product categories so it is not like more conservative people were left out.

The slowdown in sales only proved that the general public is already tired because there is no evolution in his maximalism aesthetic.

Exactly. Michele’s first collections were more digestible so the trickle-down effect on all the categories was easier but overtime, the real HF stuff was available in key stores and the most mass market products were everywhere else.

But Gucci’s weakness has always been the fact that they never had a strong permanent offer. A real luxury brand should have a line up of core products people will always come for.
Hermès has never stopped the production of it 4 iconic bags, their foulards and their belts. Chanel have added and removed some bags from their line up but the classic and the 2.55, never. They still sells their two tones ballets flats, cardigans and tweed jackets. Louis Vuitton has literally a department « separated » from the fashion entity.

Maybe that’s what KERING should do. Re-introduce a line up of iconic Gucci designs (on their original form) from the Jackie and Bambou bags with the original logos to the loafers, do a mix of Tom Ford/ Frida and Michele eras products and at the same time pushing new creative vision with the new CD.

Ultimately, if they uses the same strategy they have used before, the results will be the same. With the heavy marketing they will do with the new CD, maybe the Gucci fatigue will come sooner…

 

[style_expert]

Maybe that’s what KERING should do. Re-introduce a line up of iconic Gucci designs (on their original form) from the Jackie and Bambou bags with the original logos to the loafers, do a mix of Tom Ford/ Frida and Michele eras products and at the same time pushing new creative vision with the new CD.

Ultimately, if they uses the same strategy they have used before, the results will be the same. With the heavy marketing they will do with the new CD, maybe the Gucci fatigue will come sooner…

Good idea, they need to hire you actually!
Honestly, Gucci has a nice archive with a lot of potential core classics. Not as iconic as Chanel maybe but the Gucci logo is instantly recognizable, it only became so diluted and oversaturated in the Michele era, slapped on so many products.

It seems like Kering/Pinault is inspired by the recent success of the new Bottega strategy (positioning it higher in terms of pricing). Gucci is operating on such a different scale and level, I wonder if it will work.

 

[yslforever]

Its going to be a female or I see Peter Dundas

or Anthony V.

That's in talks right now... because Saint-Laurent CEO is said to replace the current Gucci CEO, if he can't save his position.

 

[LadyJunon]

Exactly. Michele’s first collections were more digestible so the trickle-down effect on all the categories was easier but overtime, the real HF stuff was available in key stores and the most mass market products were everywhere else.

But Gucci’s weakness has always been the fact that they never had a strong permanent offer. A real luxury brand should have a line up of core products people will always come for.
Hermès has never stopped the production of it 4 iconic bags, their foulards and their belts. Chanel have added and removed some bags from their line up but the classic and the 2.55, never. They still sells their two tones ballets flats, cardigans and tweed jackets. Louis Vuitton has literally a department « separated » from the fashion entity.

Maybe that’s what KERING should do. Re-introduce a line up of iconic Gucci designs (on their original form) from the Jackie and Bambou bags with the original logos to the loafers, do a mix of Tom Ford/ Frida and Michele eras products and at the same time pushing new creative vision with the new CD.

Ultimately, if they uses the same strategy they have used before, the results will be the same. With the heavy marketing they will do with the new CD, maybe the Gucci fatigue will come sooner…

Is that seriously how poor brand management operations are at Gucci?
This is luxury merchandising 101.
Dior has their Lady and Saddle.
Loewe has their Puzzle.
Hermès has the Birkin.
Balenciaga has their City/Cagole and Hourglass.
Chanel has the 2.55, the 11.12, the 19, the 22 and the Boy.
Louis Vuitton has a whole carousel of bags, purses and even trunks.
Even a silly trendy brand like Jacquemus produces their Chiquito and Bambino, which is part of their permanent collection and have been sold in a multitude of sizes and variations.
Gucci needs to get their sh*t together, hopefully a new creative director can solve that.

 

[Page666]

Daniel roseberry

Maria grazia

Jonathan Anderson

…
Discuss

 

[LadyJunon]

Daniel roseberry

Maria grazia

Jonathan Anderson

…
Discuss

Roseberry: I'd rather have him at another couture/couture adjacent house. He's too elaborate of a designer to thrive at an accessory-based company like Gucci.
MGC: Not ideal, but it makes the most sense. Kering seems to prefer designers with a more visually progressive aesthetic though.
JWA: Impossible, since he's bound to LVMH through Loewe and his eponymous label.

 

[Mutterlein]

Pinault wants to take Gucci up market and attract the uber luxury customer

Interpret that how you will but that's the business brief.

 

[Mutterlein]

Exactly. Michele’s first collections were more digestible so the trickle-down effect on all the categories was easier but overtime, the real HF stuff was available in key stores and the most mass market products were everywhere else.

But Gucci’s weakness has always been the fact that they never had a strong permanent offer. A real luxury brand should have a line up of core products people will always come for.
Hermès has never stopped the production of it 4 iconic bags, their foulards and their belts. Chanel have added and removed some bags from their line up but the classic and the 2.55, never. They still sells their two tones ballets flats, cardigans and tweed jackets. Louis Vuitton has literally a department « separated » from the fashion entity.

Maybe that’s what KERING should do. Re-introduce a line up of iconic Gucci designs (on their original form) from the Jackie and Bambou bags with the original logos to the loafers, do a mix of Tom Ford/ Frida and Michele eras products and at the same time pushing new creative vision with the new CD.

Ultimately, if they uses the same strategy they have used before, the results will be the same. With the heavy marketing they will do with the new CD, maybe the Gucci fatigue will come sooner…

If i recall correctly, they were doing that before Michele started and it was part of the reason why Frida left. I distinctly remember some of classic styles, particularly the Bamboo, had reached a dead end and weren't selling. They needed a designer who could bring newness and Michele brought it.

But, it's a different climate now and maybe a different approach with the same idea might have a different effect.

Personally I'd love a half-moon hobo with the original look and was shocked that it was never reissued under Michele.

 

[Jacque Marcel]

I mean you can get Gucci stuff at the local Nordstrom Rack. That's not up market. Kering will have to fix that. Someone mentioned Phoebe Philo and I can see that. I doubt her own line is laughing anytime soon.

 

[Mutterlein]

Daniel roseberry

Maria grazia

Jonathan Anderson

…
Discuss

I think Daniel is just fine where he is. I could be wrong but I don't really see him taking on what is essentially a luxury lifestyle brand. He's more FASHUN.

MGC at Gucci seems like god-awful bore. The only saving grace for her work, for me, is Dior's atelier. Take that away and what's really left?

It's unlikely JWA will ever leave the LVMH family for Kering, partly because they have a stake in his business but also because he's really been able to make Loewe his own. Why would he walk away from what he's built? Would Gucci give him the opportunity to be more creative? To design products with more integrity? I don't think so.

 

[Lola701]

If i recall correctly, they were doing that before Michele started and it was part of the reason why Frida left. I distinctly remember some of classic styles, particularly the Bamboo, had reached a dead end and weren't selling. They needed a designer who could bring newness and Michele brought it.

But, it's a different climate now and maybe a different approach with the same idea might have a different effect.

Personally I'd love a half-moon hobo with the original look and was shocked that it was never reissued under Michele.

Frida understood luxury and the long-term appeal of those pieces. She indulge enough in Logo-mania but under her era, she reintroduced leather bags in a big way that were maybe more classic but also timeless. I still have the boring classic bags with bambou and grained leather from Friday’s era and they are fabulous…Much like the Dyonisus of Michele.

The reality is that all those brands wants success like Hermes, Chanel and Vuitton but in short term. It will never happen…
The Birkin and Kelly had cycles before becoming ultimate icons. You don’t stop production or remove bags that have a classic appeal…

As @LadyJunon said, it’s basic marketing. Brands like Dior did those mistakes. They had a fantastic line up of bags under Raf that they destroyed with MGC for her to only have the book bag as the selling one. YSL did the same mistake.
Now they are using terrible marketing tactics to create icons right after the launch of the bags. Even a brand like Chanel does it with lackluster designs. I’m not sure the 19 and the whatever drawstrings bags they released recently are better than anything they have in their archives…

 

[Page666]

Roseberry: I'd rather have him at another couture/couture adjacent house. He's too elaborate of a designer to thrive at an accessory-based company like Gucci.
MGC: Not ideal, but it makes the most sense. Kering seems to prefer designers with a more visually progressive aesthetic though.
JWA: Impossible, since he's bound to LVMH through Loewe and his eponymous label.

Anderson get the point is tricky but also I find that his company is a bit stagnant and although his Loewe is respected and giving Stella shows.. his aim would be to be on a higher level and maximum exposure.. kering could give him that if LVMH cannot..

MGH would be able to return home and also have control of mens.. although she would would lose couture.. non regrets in this forum! Lol


Daniel rosberry.. pretty face.. huge pay rise.. he has created a strong quite brave identity in a quick time for jewelry and accessories.. although he might lose couture.. he surely would not turn down an approach

 

[Mutterlein]

Frida understood luxury and the long-term appeal of those pieces. She indulge enough in Logo-mania but under her era, she reintroduced leather bags in a big way that were maybe more classic but also timeless. I still have the boring classic bags with bambou and grained leather from Friday’s era and they are fabulous…Much like the Dyonisus of Michele.

The reality is that all those brands wants success like Hermes, Chanel and Vuitton but in short term. It will never happen…
The Birkin and Kelly had cycles before becoming ultimate icons. You don’t stop production or remove bags that have a classic appeal…

As @LadyJunon said, it’s basic marketing. Brands like Dior did those mistakes. They had a fantastic line up of bags under Raf that they destroyed with MGC for her to only have the book bag as the selling one. YSL did the same mistake.
Now they are using terrible marketing tactics to create icons right after the launch of the bags. Even a brand like Chanel does it with lackluster designs. I’m not sure the 19 and the whatever drawstrings bags they released recently are better than anything they have in their archives…

You do if they aren't selling.

I mean obviously Gucci made the right call because look at the growth they enjoyed after they got rid of Frida. The numbers speak for themselves. The growth under Michele is truly unparalleled.

In fact, the numbers still speak for themselves. There is no evidence or any kind of data that suggests their current slowdown in sales has anything to do with a lack of a classic point of view or legacy assortment. Most reports suggest it's brand fatigue and... a lack of newness.

Frida's idea of Italian luxury was cliche and anodyne. I hope to never see the likes of it again.

Even though I suspect Gucci will probably be making a slight turn for the more classic given its new business brief, I doubt it is her idea of classic that it will turn to.

Analysts suggest that what is happening at Bottega is the model Gucci is trying to emulate.

I would anticipate as a much return to "classics" as Blazy has orchestrated at BV.