Pleasantly surprised by the restrained and subdued designs that are very reminiscent of their late-80s charm and romanticism: That image of the Sicilian young, quiet widow in all-black but also the refined corsetry under the huge lush knits. The textures in this collection are supreme. The set and production design is horrendously distracting and drags the romantic vibe down— as does the bloated showing. But at least the themes aren’t so literal with the inclusion of a poor lamb being carried by a model, like they showed with the men’s… (Nothing beats the set design of the all-white runway with the columns in the centre. Then again, nothing compared to their past of Supers walking their shows….)
Now just imagining a campaign for this collection that is as cinematic and full of mood and attitude, and beauty as their early-90s ones. One can dream.