Emilio Pucci F/W 11.12 Milan

[ng19]

Like you said, a lil bit old days Versace and Cavalli, or even Tom Ford, but Dundas has his own personal style, and just you see a dress and you can say "this is Pucci, this is Dundas"
I LOVE the collection, summer was his best, but this collection rocks, everything it's perfect, colors, prints, materials, he is the only who can made a coat looks sexy!
And menswear, just to die for.
He knows whats he is doing.

totally agreed

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

I don't know.

The green half gown with the sequins near the end was lush. And a couple of other highlights.

But generally Pucci maximalism seems easier to stomach when it's tied to a 70s influence. Victoriana feels just an embellishment too far that it leaves one feeling old and dirty and wanting the palette cleansed with a bit of modern minimalism.

I think it's a brand dna that somehow translates better into the summer months. It needs a certain lightness. This suffers from overwraught heaviness.

I'm not one to often chime a wearability gong but all too many of the pieces had the wrong length for red carpet/evening, were far too embellished for day and didn't feel 'cocktail' either.

Ok to the red carpet pieces but otherwise how many women find themselves these days in a bordello or on the set of a period drama.

 

[Jelavender]

vogue.co.uk

 

[reese06]

It's not his strongest collection but it's quite lovely. I'm not really keen on those capri pants. They're terribly unflattering. Some pieces might also veer into costume territory but it's great to see that he's not only good for mini-dresses. I actually think that Anna Wintour would look so regal in quite a few of the cocktail length pieces. And I have to say that the fur toggle coat is amazing. Great shoes also.

 

[mackos]

I like how this collection brought a slightly fresher wave to Dundas' Pucci, it was drifting towards the Balmain-Syndrome with all the seasons impossible to distinguish.

 

[ParadEyes]

Dark Pucci.

 

[liberty33r1b]

Style.com review:
MILAN, February 26, 2011
By Nicole Phelps

Peter Dundas gave the hippie-deluxe look he's made his signature during his two years at Emilio Pucci the old heave-ho tonight. Call it a case of quitting while you're ahead: Sales for Spring and orders for pre-fall are way, way up. But the designer has already moved on to new inspirations. For Fall he's thinking along more refined yet altogether decadent lines. Before the show he rattled off a list of reference points: hunters; Tyrolea; winter palaces; Romy Schneider as Sissi; Victoire de Castellane, the designer of Dior's haute joaillerie; and a Parisian figure known for flaunting her very belle poitrine. That's right, a bare leg may have reigned supreme at this Florence house since Dundas' arrival, but no longer. This season, the bust is it. He framed it with corseted hourglass dresses that had long sleeves and a little collar or a bow, and sometimes both, at the neckline—one part temptress, the other part decorous. These came in all manner of materials, from practically humble loden wool to positively sumptuous black velvet embellished with crystals arrayed in diamond patterns, as well as in the familiar Pucci prints. Well, make that not so familiar. To emphasize the rustic, raw part of the story, he reintepreted the prints in hand-painted renderings.

As for all those sharp-shouldered, double-breasted Pucci blazers in the front row? There were still some rigorously tailored examples on today's runway, but they were part of the capsule collection for men that Dundas was debuting alongside his womenswear. His female fashion fans, on the other hand, will have to do some updating before next season. His new jackets come with a little puff at the shoulders. A suede version with leather appliqués worn with matching knickers edged into costume territory, but it was a rare misstep in a terrific collection. The Hollywood set that's gone gaga for Dundas will be looking for red carpets to wear his dresses on all year long.

 

[Flashbang]

Accessories! (style.com)

 

[Flashbang]

.... (style.com)

 

[KKnardi]

ok, some of it was great. but I dislike some certain outfits, the half-down the calf pant ensamble - horrible. the male outfits were nice but somehow out of context here... should have focused on the ladies dundas!

 

[kiddokiddo]

I get the Tom Ford for YSL Rive Gauche FW 2002 with a little bit of boho glam from Cavalli. I don't really get it but this will be everywhere comes next season. Dundas is like the new Decarnin, flavour of the year

 

[mikeijames]

At the end when Dundas came out, I was like, "that's right , take your bow because you just did the damn thing!"


Everything was on point:
the day clothes;
the gowns;
the outerwear;
the color story;
the silhouettes;
the opulence;
the decadence;
the sexiness;
the beauty;
the cast;
the breasts;
the hair;
the walks;
the men;
the music;
everything!!!!!

i really can't add anything to this. seriously, he has definitely found his footing at this house and it shows. this stuff is so good it makes you forget what pucci used to look like.

 

[Squizree]

^ Yes but the old Pucci was Pucci. The new Pucci isn't Pucci.

 

[reese06]

^ Yes but the old Pucci was Pucci. The new Pucci isn't Pucci.

How is this not Pucci? And what was relevant about old Pucci?

 

[Squizree]

Well for me personally, Pucci was always about the groovy flower and lava prints and the explosive use of colours. Even my mother, who has never heard of Pucci, will automatically recognize the Pucci print as "iconic". That was Pucci. BUT that being said, I always felt that the house under Williamson was stuck in "history-mode" and never really progressed anywhere. Dundas' Pucci is much more mainstream and modern at the same time. I'm not saying he doesn't use prints or colours because he does, but those prints and colours don't remind me of Pucci at all, they're just really good sexy prints!

 

[mademoiselle_]

Oh my goodness. Sex

 

[neonsprinkles]

I love the warm deep greens so much! There was a smoldering quality to the collection- but there never was a point where it looked HEAVY. Even the menswear sprinkled within it felt right and meshed well with the womenswear. I've been seeing a lot of Italian designers use similar color pallets and for the most part it works but it didn't feel as smooth as this particular collection. One of Milan's top collections this season!

 

[ultramarine]

Well for me personally, Pucci was always about the groovy flower and lava prints and the explosive use of colours. Even my mother, who has never heard of Pucci, will automatically recognize the Pucci print as "iconic". That was Pucci. BUT that being said, I always felt that the house under Williamson was stuck in "history-mode" and never really progressed anywhere. Dundas' Pucci is much more mainstream and modern at the same time. I'm not saying he doesn't use prints or colours because he does, but those prints and colours don't remind me of Pucci at all, they're just really good sexy prints!

Well .. what a lot of people dont know or remember is that Pucci did more than stuff with the prints ... he did invented the capri pants, you know?

I think Dundas isnt quite as literal as lets say, Lacroix or Williamson but I think he pays a good homage to the house.

 

[HeatherAnne]

I'm not really a Pucci fan but I do admire those deep green dresses. And the shoes, the shoes are gorgeous!

 

[thedanae]

Front page on tFS today: Emilio Pucci Fall 2011 Runway Review