Emilio Pucci S/S 2023 Florence

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[LadyJunon]

I'll take the first caftan and throw the rest away.

 

[Delleone]

Oh, there goes the taste level, floating down the Arno. I was wondering where it went?

To be fair, Pucci is fashion mission impossible — sway too far or adhere too closely to the house codes and you’re doomed.

Miceli has had some nifty ideas, such as reducing the prints to a trim or a belt loop. You get that it’s a Pucci but aren’t overwhelmed by arabesque swirls.

There’s a vague, strike that, a quite potent whiff of L’aire de Confusion about these proceedings. A bit poolside ladies gone mad.

Not awful but not necessary neither. Pour me another glass. TGIF.

 

[LadyJunon]

The show video:

 

[jeanclaude]

Pucci has beautiful prints in their archives; but here we have a collection made of the ugliest ones.

Some of them look like a hippie, while high on LSD, barfed all over the expensive silks.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

That opening caftan manipulated us into thinking that the rest of the collection was some sophisticated Italian dream. It still is a decent collection though the shoes must have been a nightmare for the models.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Camille Miceli has little knowledge of RTW and it shows.
The taste level…I feel like watching a Project Runway circa 2010 when Lady Gaga was THE THING…. « You can use deadstock Pucci fabrics and make creative projects with them ».

Horrendous catsuits, tacky shiny materials, basic styling.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Of all the "by the pool" accoutrements they could choose from, they decided on pool noodles...

The rest, bar the opening kaftan, feels like a Mark Fast collection from 2008-2010 meets Lady Miss Kier cosplay. It's pointless, and makes me yearn for Dundas' Pucci.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I know Pucci’s got his prints but this feels like taking it a bit far with using them as a logo. Which I guess is the point. And if that’s the case she could do better colors

 

[TaylorBinque]

Lindsay got so much hate for her Ungaro collection. This is worse. There, I said it.

 

[Lola701]

The ambitions at LVMH for Pucci have down-sized drastically and so, the focus is on lifestyle.
Guillaume Henry was their first choice for the brand and maybe what he is doing at Patou would have worked for Pucci…

Camille Miceli is good for the lifestyle approach because she is the consumer and she knows the consumer. The difficulty here is to transfert that knowledge to a fashion-focused proposition.

Those clothes will work where they are meant to be worn but they don’t work on a catwalk.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Yikes!

I thought she was supposed to have good taste?

 

[FashionFanatico]

dated as hell!

not even fancy enough for the russian oligarch trophy wives on the run
somewhere at the beaches in Marbella, Dubai or Phuket.

 

[FashionFanatico]

she will be replaced soon. 100% sure.

 

[Phuel]

Those clothes will work where they are meant to be worn but they don’t work on a catwalk.

These clothes don’t work IRL either. But LOL at the pool noodles as accessories: Very Edie Monsoon/ Zoolander-level of caricature. For a brand that’s so reliant on its prints— and prints that have been so co-opted into the daily design vocabulary of the world-- not just fashion, by over half a century now, it’s so odd how careless this supposed return of Pucci looks so hysterically cheap with the selection of prints. Like @jeanclaude pointed out, there are so many more impressive print designs from the archive, and this is what they went for...

The aesthetic/branding/presentation just reeks of a budget-conscious collab: Very juvenile, very childrenswear nonsense. Very consumer. Very directionless. The catsuits are ridiculous. The caftan is overrated and resembles more a big top tent in that hideous print. It’s all such tepid clownwear. Although nothing unique or even high-end, the only design that’s tolerable is this:

VOGUE.COM

 

[lhhbl]

horrendous, nothing can be saved