F/W 2023.24 & Cruise 2024 Open Discussion Thread

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Update on the Paris Menswear Shows this January:
(Everything that's new is marked in bold red)
Saint Laurent and Maison Margiela Return to Paris Men’s Provisional Schedule

The fully physical fall 2023 men’s season will run from Jan. 17 to 22.

By LILY TEMPLETON
DECEMBER 16, 2022, 12:30PM

PARIS — All 81 events of the fall 2023 Paris Men’s Week will be physical, according to the provisional calendar published Friday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

The menswear collections will be unveiled between Jan. 17 and Jan. 22, with 48 shows and 33 presentations, starting with Wales Bonner’s 5:30 p.m. show on the first day.

As previously reported, Saint Laurent will return to Paris with a 9 p.m. show on Jan. 17 for its men’s collection. In recent years, Anthony Vaccarello has shown his menswear designs in Marrakech; Jersey City, New Jersey; Venice, Italy, and Malibu, California.

Making a comeback after a years-long absence is Maison Margiela, which had shown John Galliano’s first — and only, to date — Artisanal men’s collection in 2018, and ready-to-wear men’s collections before that. Its show will take place on Jan. 22 at 8 p.m.

With Rick Owens and Louis Vuitton, respectively, at 12:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. on Jan. 19, Dior Homme at 2:30 p.m. the next day and Hermès at 3 p.m. on the Saturday, fashion week cornerstones are settling back into familiar configurations.

And come January, there will be another Emily in Paris — designer Emily Bode.

Her six-year-old brand revealed on Wednesday that it intended to return to the official Paris menswear calendar this season, with its show now confirmed at 6:30 p.m. on Jan. 21.

Botter, Sacai and White Mountaineering will also take to the runway for their fall 2023 collections.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who was recently named artistic director of Ann Demeulemeester, is returning to the men’s calendar on Jan. 22 at 10 a.m. for the fall 2023 collection of his eponymous gender-fluid brand, after revealing his spring 2023 collection during last October’s womenswear collections.

Presentations will also be plentiful on the six-day schedule.

The fall 2023 season will see the return of Berluti, with an all-day presentation on Jan. 18. The brand had not shown on the official calendar since January 2021. It had announced it would “take a new approach to the collection calendar, choosing its own path for presenting its exceptional products, including collaborative projects and pieces” after announcing the departure of its artistic director Kris Van Assche in April 2021.

This season’s newcomer is 032c, the Berlin-based cult magazine’s apparel line, designed by cofounder Maria Koch, who will hold a presentation on Jan 20.

Now firmly entrenched, digital content will be broadcast on the federation’s dedicated platform, through pre-recorded films, livestreams or post-show edits.

Among those who will sit this session out are Thom Browne, Craig Green, Rhude as well as Celine. The Hedi Slimane-designed house’s latest outing was its women’s fall 2023, shown on Dec. 8 in Los Angeles.
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Source: WWD
 
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Mugler is back on the PFW schedule, set to show Fall 2023 on January 26th:

 
Update for the Fall'23 season:

Y/Project Moves Show From Paris Men’s Schedule to Women’s

The brand designed by Glenn Martens is among the changes revealed by the definitive schedules for Paris' men's and couture shows in January.


By LILY TEMPLETON

JANUARY 9, 2023, 11:36AM

PARIS — The final versions of the fall 2023 men’s and spring 2023 couture calendar were released Monday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, and Y/Project has vacated its 8 p.m. slot on Jan. 18.

A spokesperson for the brand indicated it would showcase Glenn Martens’ spring 2023 collection during the women’s show calendar, which is slated to run between Feb. 27 and March 7. The brand’s sales campaign remains in January.

Also sitting the fall 2023 men’s season out are Lukhanyo Mdingi, who was due to showcase his latest collection in a presentation format on Jan. 20, and Pigalle, initially scheduled for Jan. 22.

The final version of the men’s calendar also revealed that Basscoutur, the brand designed by Riadh Trabelsi, has changed its name to Iregular, but would keep to its upcycled and deadstock resources.

“Iregular defines itself without a name tag to allow the expression of a collective creativity that transcends the barriers of fashion and the arts, without naivety or pretension,” the brand stated in an Instagram post, listing sustainable and vintage fashion alongside music and photography.

Meanwhile, Reid Baker and Inês Amorim will be showcasing the latest collection of their brand Ernest W. Baker during Paris Fashion Week, with a presentation on Jan. 21 between 10 a.m. and 7 p.m.

These changes bring the total collections unveiled between Jan. 17 and Jan. 22 to 47 shows and 32 presentations.

The couture schedule saw only one change: couturier Christophe Josse will no longer be showing his spring 2023 collection.

As previously reported, the final version of the January schedules confirmed that ready-to-wear collections would be presented on Jan. 26 and 27.

Mugler will return to the Parisian runway, with a presentation scheduled for 8 p.m. on Jan. 26 at La Villette, a vast cultural complex on the northeastern edge of Paris. Designer Casey Cadwallader will parade a see now, buy now collection that’s considered fall 2022-23 in what is expected to be a “new concept” and an “immersive experience across all channels, and in front of a live audience.”

And on the morning after couture, Patou will show its fall 2023 collection at 10 a.m. for the second runway for artistic director Guillaume Henry.

According to chief executive officer Sophie Brocart, choosing an “alternative moment” fits the brand’s desire to sidestep the pressures of the traditional rtw schedule in favor of a more convivial moment for guests and teams.
Click to expand...
Source: WWD

Summary:
Ready-to-Wear:
• Y/Project is switching to the Womenswear Show Schedule
• Lukhanyo Mdingi and Pigalle are skipping Menswear Show Schedule
• Margiela is returning to show on the 22nd
Couture:
• Christophe Josse is skipping the Couture Show Schedule
Independent Shows:
• Mugler is returning to show on the 26th
• Patou shows on the 27th
• No news on Alaïa and Paco Rabanne
 
Louis Vuitton Menswear will be designed in collaboration with KidSuper's Colm Dillane (whoever that is?). It sounds like, for the moment, they are going to have a guest designer each season until they find a replacement, which is a very interesting approach.

Super surprise: Why Louis Vuitton chose KidSuper to co-create next menswear collection
The Autumn/Winter 2023 collection was designed by the men’s studio with KidSuper founder Colm Dillane’s participation. It makes sense, whether it’s a placeholder or more.

BY LAURE GUILBAULT AND LUKE LEITCH

January 10, 2023


KidSuper founder Colm Dillane, with just two Paris Fashion Week shows under his belt, is to return next week with a remarkable new gig at Louis Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury house.

The Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear collection, which will be presented on 19 January, was created by the men’s studio “with the participation of” Dillane. “In other words, Colm is embedded into the men’s studio,” the house said Tuesday. The show will also feature scenography by Lina Kutsovskaya and French directors Michel and Olivier Gondry, who directed a prelude film for the show. And expect an appearance from a yet to be disclosed “world-famous music star”.

According to the house, this marks a continuation of the talent collective concept already seen in the last two seasons following the death of Virgil Abloh, the house’s men’s artistic director. Kutsovskaya was a longtime collaborator of Abloh, as was Ib Kamara, who will be behind the styling of the upcoming show.

So why has Louis Vuitton elected Dillane?

It appears that this season’s collaborative format, which through his “embedded” cameo role effectively makes Dillane its first-ever guest runway designer, has been planned to act as a placeholder. Ever since the sudden death of Abloh in November 2021, the house has been carefully considering the sensitive question of who might replace him – a huge ask given Abloh’s generational impact and influence. Many names (including Dillane’s) have been mooted. However, by handing the task of headlining its menswear output only temporarily to Dillane, it deflates that pressure while simultaneously affording the company time to align and execute its future plans for creative strategy – and possibly the eventual appointment of a long-term successor to Abloh.

LVMH-owned Louis Vuitton is the world’s largest luxury house: its sales surged 20 per cent to €20.6 billion in 2022 and are expected to reach €21.9 billion in 2023, according to HSBC estimates. Menswear may not represent the bulk of the business, but the role of men’s artistic director is key given the size of the house, the importance of leather goods, which represent over 70 per cent of the house’s sales according to analysts, and the halo effect of the men’s designer’s creative vision on the overall brand’s desirability.

Today’s news is only the latest twist for a designer who possesses an uncanny talent for manifesting the apparently impossible. Dillane created the KidSuper moniker as a 15-year-old highschooler who, with his friends, had a side job screen printing T-shirts. In his early 20s he informally founded the house from a ramshackle, teal-painted Brooklyn property that he shared with fellow creatives in order to record music and shoot videos, and in 2018 he formalised the marque.

“The idea of this young person who believes anything is possible was and is the basis of KidSuper,” said Dillane during a past review interview with Vogue Runway. “And it pushes you to be better and understand that maybe nothing is too far-fetched. There was no one asking me to come to Paris Fashion Week. That very much seemed far-fetched! But when I spoke to my friends about it, kind of just joking, to say I think the next step might be Paris Fashion Week everyone believed I could do it. Because there is this alter ego of KidSuper where everything is possible if you shoot for the stars.”

Late in 2019, Dillane’s application to join the official schedule was approved by la Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode: his acceptance letter featured on the opening dress of his first show in February 2020. A series of compelling digital presentations followed during the pandemic period, by which time Dillane had caught the eye of the LVMH Prize’s global talent identification operation.

Abloh was among the judges who awarded Dillane the €150,000 Karl Lagerfeld Prize in 2021. Accepting it that day, Dillane joked that before the mentorship from LVMH that comes with the prize began, he hoped to go dancing with its founder and group scion, Delphine Arnault. As evidenced by today’s announcement, Louis Vuitton has continued to foster its relationship with the designer as he builds his maverick and inclusive brand.

Brands including Jean Paul Gaultier and AZ Factory have shifted to a guest designer model. Most recently, Lacoste announced it is moving towards a collective approach. For Louis Vuitton, it is a philosophy that resonates with its late artistic director’s practice. Prior to his death, Abloh was working with LVMH to create a platform to launch new brands and form cutting-edge partnerships with existing ones.

Dillane is an outsider to Paris high fashion, which may be part of his appeal. And like Abloh, he has a streetwear background. There are some other shared attributes, including Dillane’s approach to unexpected collaborations, his emphasis on community-building in fashion and his facility for storytelling. Dillane told Vogue Runway’s Sarah Mower when he won the Karl Lagerfeld award: “From where I come from, from a streetwear perspective, it was always like: what can we get everyone to work towards, and how do the clothes encapsulate that? For me, they’re colourful, they’re joyful. The clothes are the merch that funds the community.” Dillane is now building a retail space and creative centre in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, including a multi-brand retail store, cafe, gallery space, performance space and recording studio, as Vogue Business recently reported.

His connections to the art world make him a good fit for Louis Vuitton, which has a track record of collaborations with artists, most recently a blockbuster collection with Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama.

The designer’s return to Paris’s physical runway schedule last June proved a highlight of the season, thanks to his innovative reinvention of the format as an art auction. Among the many fellow designers and celebrities present sat another LVMH scion, Alexandre Arnault, currently Tiffany & Co’s executive VP of products and communication. Also in 2022, Dillane was a CFDA nominee for the American Emerging Designer of the Year award, and he made the Vogue Business 100 Innovators list in December, in the “Next-gen entrepreneurs and agitators” category.

Two days after his collaboration with Louis Vuitton, Dillane will return under his own label to present his Autumn 2023 collection at the Casino de Paris. He told 10 magazine last month that this season’s KidSuper runway reinvention will blend fashion and stand-up comedy. He said: “Comedians will walk out and tell jokes while wearing the clothes… We’ll see how it goes, it could fully bomb. But that’s also what’s cool about some of the fashion shows I do, they’re risky.” According to the show’s save the date, it will feature Mike Tyson, Jeff Ross, Stavros Halkias “and many more”.

It is unclear whether Dillane harbours any ambition to helm a heritage house for multiple seasons while he builds his own, 100 per cent self-owned brand as an indie designer. What is certain is that KidSuper – which he describes as “a real company built on unreal ideas” – will benefit from unreal exposure as a result of his upcoming cameo season at Louis Vuitton.
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VOGUE BUSINESS
 
Versace will do the men's and women's show in Los Angeles.
 
Frederic01 said:
Louis Vuitton Menswear will be designed in collaboration with KidSuper's Colm Dillane (whoever that is?). It sounds like, for the moment, they are going to have a guest designer each season until they find a replacement, which is a very interesting approach.


VOGUE BUSINESS
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At this point it’s not even interesting…
Gaultier is definitely the most influential designer of this last 3 years business-wise.

I hope Nicolas is part of that line-up.

It’s so weird that they make it feel so hard to replace Virgil when they had no issue replacing Karl with mediocre Kim Jones.
 
The schedules for New York and London are now up and pinned here in Designers & Collections - will add Milan and Paris once they're released.
 
LadyJunon said:
Could you put up the schedules for the Menswear shows in Milan and Paris, if it's not too much of an issue.
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Sure! Got Paris and Milan uploading now and will create a separate thread. There's no London showcase for menswear, right?
 
vogue28 said:
Sure! Got Paris and Milan uploading now and will create a separate thread. There's no London showcase for menswear, right?
Click to expand...
Thank you, and no the London Menswear Shows were joined to the Womenswear Shows in 2020.
 
LadyJunon said:
I'm interested in what would change after Alessandro's exit, but I really don't have any high hopes in the offering itself.
Click to expand...

I expect nothing but a tone down, lite version of Alessandro´s freaks (with lots of logos, of course!).
 
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