Agreeing with
from: sofia. This was a
very unfortunate season. Long reviews from me...
Lovely
Celine - Minimal sportswear is the polar opposite of my usual taste, but somehow Philo did a great job. I thought the resort collection was a little stiff, but I guess it may have just been the photos. This looks fluid, sexy, an casual.
Ackermann - A little too similar to last season, but last season was good enough to do a few more times before I get bored.
Vera Wang - Oh-so-gorgeous Vera. Great shoes, great jewelry, great clothes... Other than her just flat-out fantasticness, a woman of any age could wear stuff from this collection. There's something for everyone.
Sander - I acknowledge that there are some really cheap ideas here, from simply gluing pieces of interfacing on top of outfits or throwing some fringe on others, but something about the show pulled me in, and it's probably going to be what I remember most from this season.
Pretty Good
Balenciaga - I liked the vintage (okay, just a few years ago) vibe I got from this. Not everything was to my taste, but a solid collection, nonetheless.
McQueen - Not nearly as good as everyone's making it out to be. The production was neat. Not that neat. The clothes, too, were interesting, but it still bothers me that McQueen is still applauded for showing flights of fancy and then selling watered down versions. He's strong enough in both categories, but he should be able to synthesis the two.
Pretty, but not Awesome
Lanvin - Not much to say, from neither Alber nor myself. Beautiful clothes.
Marchesa - Ethereal, "inspired" clothes. I'd like to pretend their imitations of dresses are simply the highest form of flattery.
L'Wren Scott - That last look was amazing. Just amazing.
We'll See...
Kane - I like Kane. He's grown on me. This collection was okay, and he's steadily been getting better since he started. I wonder when he'll do more of a range of looks, though.
Rick Owens - This reminded me of my preteen days playing RPG video games, in a good way. Unfortunately some of the execution here looked a little flimsy, but this time, not in a good way.
Margiela - The tropical print pieces were great, but more importantly, I have the advantage here of not really caring if this isn't true to the founder's vision. We have no indication of whether he stepped away from the house willingly (I think so) or Rosso forced him out barbarically (Everyone else thinks that). Let's give the design team a few more chances. After all, they could've been doing all the work for
years.
Disappointing, at Best
Saint Laurent - I wasn't bothered by the strawberries, but I agree with one of the reviewers (Suzy?) in that Pilati is a romanticist and should stop trying to do such severe looks.
Prada - Seriously, Miuccia? This looked cheap, and not in an ironic way. Put some thought into it next season, 'cause you aren't dressing
any intellectuals in these clothes.
Givenchy - Tisci is amazing. But he also has a tendency to redo the same concepts over and over. I wasn't wowed by the all-over prints this season, but that won't stop me from expecting way too much from him next season as well.
