Favorite Collections S/S 10

[Master Wood]

Yay I love this thread!

I agree Dior and Galliano (Still waiting to see the Galliano show video) Were a let down I'm sure you'll concur Salvatore not even scrolling through a Dior thread was such an alien thought 5 years ago you'd never have thought the action existed, and very sadly it does. I think now we're entering into a new decade I'm going to confine Galliano to the 00's and leave him there. The party was fun while it lasted...

McQueens show was sensational loved every aspect except the music, could have been a bit more directional and pumping, hopefully he'll put an awesome soundtrack up to accompany it on his website.

Burberry was an incredible show I loved what Christopher did and so hopes he stays in London next season.

Prada, Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton were of interest if for any other reason than amazing soundtracks.

London without doubt shone as an incredible fashion capital, things are really looking up for the city, and I'm expecting amazing things in the next decade (Vivienne Westwood and Giles have already said they will be returning to the capital for the autumn/winter season)

Paris was a total let down, its lost any direction, its time for a few big changes I think!

 

[sill]

My absolute favorites are Dries van Noten and Jil Sander
I also really enjoyed Balenciaga, Givenchy, Haider Ackermann, Junya Watanabe, Alexander McQueen and Lanvin.

 

[Salvatore]

I agree Dior and Galliano (Still waiting to see the Galliano show video) Were a let down I'm sure you'll concur Salvatore not even scrolling through a Dior thread was such an alien thought 5 years ago you'd never have thought the action existed, and very sadly it does. I think now we're entering into a new decade I'm going to confine Galliano to the 00's and leave him there. The party was fun while it lasted...

Yeah! I mean, can you imagine, just a few years back, everyone hear would wait and pressing F5 until the collection came up and then when it finally did come up after an hours delay, we'd be satisfied with what we saw because it was inspiring. So much energy. Now, like you and ilaughead, I just scroll. I really cannot even tell you what a specific dress looked like except that it was just a bunch of lingerie. That's what La Perla or Victoria's Secrets is for. I have to agree that perhaps it was a thing of the 00s and at least we were lucky to witness it. It was awesome!

 

[from: sophia]

I forgot Dries is was beautiful.

 

[fika]

Alexander McQueen! The clothes were brilliant but I thought just the show itself felt so epic! For anyone who hasn't actually seen a video, AlexanderMcQueen.com has it up

 

[haksare]

Favorites:
NY: Derek Lam, Rodarte, Carolina Herrera, Chado Ralph Rucci, Isaac Mizrahi, Michael Kors
London: Matthew Williamson, Burberry
Milan: Versace, Gucci, Bottega Venetta
Paris: Karl Lagerfeld, Alexander Mcqueen, Elie Saab, Hermes, Givenchy, Giambattista Valli, Galliano, Lanvin, Versus

I expected to like more in Milan and was surprised to like Mizrahi and Kors. I'm more a Fall/Winter person, but I liked this season in general.

 

[nijuyanah]

Ann Demeulemeester
Phi
Alexander McQueen

 

[Bellaly]

Favorites:
NY: Derek Lam, Rodarte, Carolina Herrera, Chado Ralph Rucci, Isaac Mizrahi, Michael Kors
London: Matthew Williamson, Burberry
Milan: Versace, Gucci, Bottega Venetta
Paris: Karl Lagerfeld, Alexander Mcqueen, Elie Saab, Hermes, Givenchy, Giambattista Valli, Galliano, Lanvin, Versus

I expected to like more in Milan and was surprised to like Mizrahi and Kors. I'm more a Fall/Winter person, but I liked this season in general.

Bravo!
I totaly agree with you! Liked the same shows, although I would mention Blumarine, Alexander Wang and Valentino as well.

Bu I'm like you, I like the F/W Seasons more, so i'm really excited what's up next

 

[DuTTyRoCK112]

LOVE
Dries Always relaxed and chic. Great prints, genius mixing.
Alexander Wang A true elevation into new territory.
Rick Owens Consistent and sexy.
Isaac Mizraahi Camp has never been this elegant.
Dolce & Gabbana Too many looks, but the good is as good as their best.
Preen Amazing use of metallics and the killer shoulder pads on Kim Noorda.
Altuzarra Very Balenciaga, not necessarily in a bad way.
Marc Jacobs With some editing, one of his strongest collections ever.
Lanvin Drop-dead gorgeous clothes abound.
Haider Ackermann A new Tom Ford-esque sexuality proves Haider has hit his stride.
Celine Simple, chic CLOTHES.
Miu Miu Fun, kooky kitsch modernized.
Balenciaga Streetwise and cool. The best pants were here.

DISAPPOINTED
Galliano After three knock-out collections in a row, this seemed extremely off.
Givenchy Not a single look made me scream.
Balmain Prefer grunge to come from within the wearer, not spilled all over the $50,000 clothes.
Versace Way over the top with some of the most hideous shoes of the season. Atelier is more elegant and gorgeous than ever, so why does the RTW blind with tackiness?
Alexander McQueen The prints were pretty cool, but I don't need 40 of what are essentially the same party dress with different tucks and folds. Not impressed.
Vuitton Galliano-esque styling can't hide the lack of anything even remotely covetable. The shoes are a joke.

 

[mackos]

Balenciaga
Miu Miu
Prada
Lanvin

 

[irulan]

A Big Yes

Christopher Kane - It had a strong look, it was distinctive, in the moment, picked up trends, created them, too.
Erdem - That first dress obly would have won me over. I like flowers, pastel colours, lace and ruffles and Erdem is where you have to turn these days to get them in the prettiest way.
Isaac Mizrahi - Fresh and upbeat, wearable from head to toe, offering an entire wardrobe somewhere between quirky and elegant. Love this man.
Marc Jacobs - I Marc. This is not a secret anymore.
Miu Miu - Such a pretty collection. Dreamy, add a twist, an incredible print, the innocent girly trend turned into something slightly erotic. Yes, please.



A Big No

D&G - I can't let this get away. D&G is not a very relevant level and it appeals to a certain group. But this collection was plain ugly and insulted me and everybody with a fine sense of aesthetics.
Prada - It hurts to put her there. But the cuts, the pieces, tha pants (!) - not for me.
Stella McCartney - Just when she started to grow on me, she puts out denim skirts and dresses. And red with orange.
Versace - This is a sexy house. But plastic, see-through miniskirts - hot mess.
YSL - was a classic all over the place.

A BIG YAWN (such a boring season)

Chloé, Dolce & Gabbana, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Gucci, John Galliano, Marni, Valentino (just guessing here, have not bothered to look at anything except the first dress. If I had, it would be in the No section.)

All in all, I loved the feminity, the soft colours and the ruffles and ruffles everywhere. Only a few collections were inspired though. I prefer however a ****ty collection to another borefest. I normally make a list of my favourite ten collections for every season, but I could not come up with ten to save my life. I missed Lacroix and think that the show needs to be put back into fashion shows.
Ceterum censeo Victoria Beckham is no designer.

 

[MulletProof]

I don't want to go as far as saying this was a disappointing season but there's definitely a bit of confusion in some of the biggest houses.. I blame it on this being the last season of the decade, I suppose it's difficult to know what direction to take when it's still a hard time, economically and creatively. My expectations weren't at its highest and they unfortunately weren't taken by surprise either.. while some of my favorite creators still did what they do best, I still think this season will not be particularly memorable for most of their followers. On the other hand, more independent talents (who probably don't have that much to lose) seem to have pulled out their best skills and produced some truly amazing collections..

Favorites:

A.F Vandevorst

Antonio Marras

Peachoo + Krejberg

Dries Van Noten

Anne Valerie Hash

[style.com/style.it/catwalking.com]

and honorable mentions:
Meadham Kirchhoff
Missoni
Calvin Klein
Valentino
Marcus Constable
Maria Cornejo
Marni

 

[CharlottefromCA]

My favorites!

Lanvin, Chanel, Dries Van Noten, Calvin Klein

 

[Spike413]

I agree with Mullet in that this wasn't really a memorable season. Fashion reached the apex of the hard, futuristic, aggressive flavor that has been in the air for a few years now, and there was a definite sense of transition in most of the shows. Fashion is in flux, and the results reflected that collective sense of uncertainty about where things are headed. The thing is that this was one of the first seasons in a while where my favorites are based almost exclusively on the clothing more than anything else.

Balenciaga - For whatever reason it stood out among the sea of pastels and lingerie. The attitude of the clothes, and of the styling as well, was just really appealing. There was something very cool about throwing together what are essentially basic pieces that have been made using extraordinary workmanship, and wearing them in such a casual, unassuming way.

Haider Ackermann - Truly one of the standouts of the season for me. The combination of softness and ease with steamy sexuality was incredibly appealing, as was the overall serenity of the collection. I also loved that he worked to really lighten things up. It made for a refreshing take on all of his signatures.

Lanvin - Pure gorgeousness, it's that simple. To me there are very few designers who can take all of the traditional notions of glamour and of prettiness, and make them seem completely effortless, fresh and fun. I was mad for the Fortuny-esque textures, the rich, off-beat color choices, and the newfound heat in the clothes.

Marc Jacobs - Probably one of the more directional collections shown this season, in that it was the polar opposite of everything that has dominated fashion for seasons on end. Because of that it was a bold, borderline risky move. Even though I still don't fully love it, there is something appealing about how out of left field it is.

Proenza Schouler - I'm not even so sure why I enjoyed this collection as much as I did. It may have something to do with how much fun the clothes are, and how confident Jack and Lazaro's choices in making them were. Bright colors, bold prints, loud embellishment and athletic details have never been more appealing to me.

Honorable Mentions
Alexander McQueen
Celine
Donna Karan
Missoni
Rick Owens

 

[madame_georgiana]

Top 10
1.Celine- Phoebe did not disappoint with this collection. It was the epitome of chic sportswear, wearable and fresh, and did I mention Phoebe's back

2. Rodarte- I love how they slowly evolve their designs each season, It's not a completely different direction every season like most, their designs becomes more than just fashion...

3. Erdem- In my opinion it was a modern take on the "garden party" look, the floral prints were very British but done in a modern way.

4.Versus- Why can't Donnatella hand over the main line to Christopher?

5.Prabal Gurung- A standout collection from a standout designer. Doing the opposite of his young peers, Prabal does not design clothes for Taylor Momsen...(Wang)

Honorable Mention
Akris-Sleek and smart as usual.
Chanel- Unusual theme that would of been tacky done by any other
than Lagerfeld...The clogs were the reason it didn't make my top 5
Dolce and Gabbana- The suits were amazing, if only they focused on that...
Givenchy- Sure to keep the Givenchy the "It" label.
Mary Katrantzou- Amazing, simply amazing

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Faves: Prada, Valentino, Proenza Schouler, Oscar De La Renta, Balenciaga, Miu Miu, Fendi, Jil Sander, Galliano, Missoni

Disappointments: Marni, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Armani, DVF, YSL, Blamain, Burberry.

 

[Elijya]

Milan: Jil Sander was really nice. Minimal mind and sensual soul. Prada is brilliant. Major details and manufactory. Dolce & Gabbana. I'm surprised to say this but I loved it. Bottega Veneta. Loved.

Paris: Givenchy was just amazing. A.F Vandevorst. Lovely clothes and Patti Wilson is a genius. Ann Demeulemeester is in my heart. Haider Ackermann is celebral and you've got to appreciate it. Celine was really chic. Lanvin always the same but he's a master.

New York: Boring in general. I loved Thakoon and Ohne Titel. Liked Altuzarra.

Yohji, Junya, Comme and Chanel can do no wrong.

Disappointing: Margiela. He's not him anymore. Renzo Rosso messed up everything for sales sake. YSL. Wrong, but I know he can do better. Ungaro. Are you kidding me?

 

[Scott]

a.f. vandevorst-it was classic vandevorst with a strong and poetic emphasis on volume
comme des garçons-absolutely romantic and beautifully organic.
haider ackermann-the master of elegance
meadham kirchhoff-truly idio but also quite elegant.
jil sander-by far the most prolific collection raf has done,imo
lutz-it was refreshing and experimental direction for him.
marcus constable-the comeback kid and with a strong statement
gary graham-always so true to his style. he did not disappoint.
rodarte-much to perhaps people's dismay i genuinely appreciated the spirit from them this season.
robert geller-evolved,street but with a lovely distinct vein of romanticism.
tim van steenbergen-nice to see him back in paris!

must see more of-
boudicca(so far i adore it)
christian wijnants
marjan pejoski
sandra backlund

uncovered but looking forward to-
cathy pill
mikio sakabe

 

[Hollis]

Favorites; Blumarine, Chado Ralph Rucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Rick Owens, Lanvin, Fendi, Aminaka Wilmont, and Topshop Unique.

Disappointing; Prada, and Viktor & Rolf.

 

[Scott]

oh and anne-valérie!! back on form again