Givenchy Mens F/W 10.11 Paris

[montrealm]

Givenchy Delivers Menswear Steeped in Catholicism by THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

PARIS (AP) --

Givenchy looked toward heaven with an inspired fall-winter 2010-2011 menswear collection with deep Catholic roots.

Schubert's ''Ave Maria'' boomed over the loudspeaker and the spicy odor of incense filled the ornate hall at Paris' Sorbonne university as models clad in crocodile Jesus sandals and gilded thorn necklaces padded down the catwalk.
''Religion is a big part of my DNA and this collection was about my Catholic(ism) and every other religion in a way,'' Givenchy's Italian-born designer Riccardo Tisci told The Associated Press in a backstage interview.

He said he had looked toward religious men -- priests in their stark black and white frocks, the brown robes of Franciscan monks and the layered suits of Jewish rabbis -- for inspiration because their garb represented ''the most chic way, the most pure way of dressing.''

The show marked a departure from Tisci's heavily ornamented style of seasons past: Gone were the heaps of chunky, Latino homeboy chains, the gilded star insignia and the keffiyeh prints -- replaced by a stripped-clean silhouette in black and white. Slim, dark suits were worn with crisp white shirts -- some so plain they were shorn even of their buttons.

Still Tisci, a critical darling who is known for his Gothic sensibility, didn't come completely clean. The collection retained a hint of his trademark subversive kinkiness, particularly in the tailored black skirt-short hybrids worn over neoprene leggings.

''This is the real me, 100 percent -- the cut, the fabrics, the way I'm playing with shapes,'' said Tisci, who added that the idea for using neoprene had come from his pastime as a diver. ''This is my favorite collection.''
The audience appeared to agree: The several hundred fashion insiders, who have been quite blase throughout the first two days of Paris' menswear shows, let out a whoop of approval.

Tisci, who also designs ready-to-wear and haute couture for the Paris based label, was in his fourth season as Givenchy's menswear designer.

 

[fashionismydrug]

Is it weird that men's leggings are kind of growing on me?

btw I don't really mind the sandals. They look like generic sandals a man would wear.

 

[4n98]

it's kilt, not skirt.
I'm sick on the black stocking/leggings....
it destroyed everything.

 

[Starry]

Not as exciting as his previous seasons for men, and hate the leggings.
But the coats are very nice and the necklaces!

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

I think the best word for this is underwhelming. It seems more cleaner and refined than usual. I like it but there's nothing captivating about it as a whole.

 

[Crimson C.C]

I have to admit the black neoprene leggings caught me off guard. I am a big supporter of leggings for men but it did look abit off. Maybe in real life they look better.

 

[IAmLordZen]

The look was too austere and forgettable IMO. And the sandals bordered on kitschy but it was nice. Typical.

 

[Geostud]

Loved the gold necklaces and outerwear! Not crazy about the tights and sandals...

 

[montrealm]

Im glad Tisci toned down this collection a bit with this new refined and severe direction he took and I realy hope this will be the way to go with future collections. The cuts are well executed, the outwear is ready to go and very desirable, this is true to the Givenchy menswear vision.

 

[Bidwell]

The outerwear really is beautiful as are the suit cuts.

 

[Donatello89]

well it's givenchy...things i love, things i hate. but truely, men don't require to look like women to be "fashion". some greats pants tough

 

[gossiping]

well for once i can say i LOVE a givenchy collection!

 

[Crying Diamonds]

Yeah I think I like some of the blazers and I'd love a crown of thorns necklace, but a velvet skirt and tights? Thanks.

 

[sobigsobig]

Givenchy is a critical key to
The next year you can see a lot of fashion to wear these clothes Madman
Both the outline to the shoes, rigorous and distinctive personality
He is totally a genius

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GQ.com

 

[ettebe]

I'll take the dress shirts

Plus kilt-shorts and leggings, sure why not.

 

[Harpy]

swooning in monasticism

This collection was beyond beautiful. It's so incredibly refreshing to see religion and fashion merge in a way that does not mock the former or limit the latter. As someone who fascinated by the intersection of faith and artistic expression, I found this collection quite illuminating. The religious imagery, with the exception of the Jesus T-shirt (although I imagine Tisci was engaging a dialogue with Spanish-South American popular devotion) was very toned down. It would be amusing to examine if minimalism was the new monasticism.

The gold 'wreath' necklaces were exquisite, I love the nod to Christ's crown of thorns. Even more amusing is the way Tisci is playing with the christian concept of suffering as ennobling. The crown of thorns transformed into gold. Pain transformed into material/spiritual perfection. Haha... can anyone imagine Tisci as a fourteenth century flagellating monk?

The sandals (I can't really speak about the leggings) and the deep hooded coats/jackets, are all references to ascetic monks (Though I wonder if ascetic monks were/are ever so physically attractive). I think the presence of kilts was also an extension of the flowing robes of the monastic clergy.

oh... and the presence of Doves on the pants was delicious. The Holy spirit rising from down below, instead of up above.

All in all, I thought it was an excellent show. Not only did have a beautiful, though very severe (much like the demands of religion) concepts, I found it had many wearable pieces. Not all together, I'd imagine not many of us have the guts to be 21st century monks, but individually wearable nonetheless.

Like God, Tisci's art, lies in the details.

 

[fouroclock]

The last look in #9 looks like Jil Sander. For women. I can't hate this but it's pushing the edge.

 

[helmut.newton]

Although this wasn't brilliant like Tisci's past Menswear collections, in retrospect, this is a definite standout for Paris. I love the crown of thorns worn around the neck, the array of white shirts and the high collars on the jackets/coats. It's completely chic, but it doesn't make the boys/men look like victims.

The music was stunning too. From what I read, "Ave Maria" was playing.

 

[gomtik]

Not liking the latex tights. Nor the upgraded gladiator sandals. Nor the kilts/skirts.

Didn't enjoy the show too much.

 

[Flashbang]

gq.com