I like this a lot better than the current spring collection, but that wouldn't take much. It seems like they are sticking with the LUXURY LUXURY direction that really began during f/w 09. Lots and lots of cashmere blends and such. They've even started using ties on the runway again. And a variety of collars for the shirts. Maybe to push the made to measure shirting. They haven't shown many of sportier/downcoat sort of pieces in a while, so maybe this is an effort to showcase the entire potential collection rather than just the runway concepts that really dominated the previous two spring collection (less so with winter 09). Strange hair though. Not very flattering.
I like what he's done to switch up the shoes again, but that's to be expected. A nice big heel and possibly some washed leather.
Look 20 is possibly my favorite overall. It does everything right. You have the sweater with the neckline that takes the key shape of the season into account without being gimmicky. You also have the pants in a great fabric with the patch pockets, again showcasing the shape very subtly. Compare this with the buttondown shirt with a gimmicky sewn on pocket and too big collar and there is no comparison. The white knit in look 8 is also exceptional. Far better than the cable knit in 3, which is just old Raf.
The initial suits are pretty bad. Too much pasted on. The patchwork MAY work on the blue in look 26, but I think it is at its most impressive just after in the grey coat in look 27. This is the outstanding outerwear piece of the collection. The overcoat in 31 works too, but it isn't nearly as exceptional. Look 9 isn't bad either.