Givenchy Menswear F/W 2024.25 Paris

I’m actually surprised they did something other than a presentation and a lookbook.

It’s not a very appealing or well styled collection. Probably ready for the outlet…
They're showing in the Givenchy Salon, which shows the actual lack of budget for this:


Lack of budget? They did too much already IMO considering the house. There are more esteemed houses with strong menswear businesses that don’t bother showing officially during FW.
 
I don't mind that they showed at the Salon, it is more intimate and feels less wasteful than some of those big loud shows that say nothing. What is wasteful though are those clothes. They are resort at best, maybe even a look book to be honest. They need a creative director fast because this is all so non-descript.
 
There must be something really wrong with me, but I find this, if not good, less repulsive than anything MW ever did at the house. It looks like something CWK might have done in menswear.

LOL …"Less repulsive" than his usual offering is the passing standard we’re at in this fashion era. That, and having just suffered through Pharrell’s cartoon cowboys & rappers costumes also helps tolerate that at least, the cut of these bootcut pants fall and stack properly, unlike Vuitton’s hilariously dweeby cowboys & rappers wearing too-short hems… And the whole vibe here is just so abandoned and discarded— like rummaging through the rejected leftovers of the Saks outlet racks somewhere in Newark, under the glare of fluorescent bulbs. You’re bound to score a decent, nondescript coat or suit if you look hard, and long enough. This is that offering: A decent teddybear coat and a decent blue suit, but was it worth all the effort and time, and to Newark…???

(Still, a better offering, and presentation than seeing the poor guys at Vuitton that have to wheel-barrel the trunks through that maze that's so awkward, so hilarious, and took forever for them to complete… like movers that accidentally found their way onto the runway. Just waiting for the next Vuitton show where there will be a monogrammed U-Haul [Vuitton's next coillab] making its way through runway. I’ll gladly take this sad defeated “collection”.)
 
I feel like if the clothes are styled right it could look fab, but it's all over the place. Do they even have an in-house team after Matthew scared everyone away???
 
There’s some discounted raf Simons looks in there (2009-2012). It’s just so confused. The whole thing.
 
Those two cream blousons look like scraps projects from fashion grad show. I didn’t know they lack budget for tailors too
 
It's not cohesive, it's not impressive, but it has glimmers of ideas that work -- and even if it's just the inherent relief of it as palate cleanser, I'd take it in a heartbeat over the mindless crap it replaced. Even mediocrity beats self-parody. So, I guess, exactly the same way I feel about the new Gucci.

The DB teddy coat is very nice, and it's a relief that it wasn't saddled with any logos or other gimmickry to differentiate it from the Max Mara variety it can't help but resemble.

The chandelier print pants with actual pearls dripping from the design is kind of awesome in a don't-pretend-it's-good-taste kind of way; it reminds me of a single pearl earring embellishment Loewe did (on one of its Studio Ghibli anime print t-shirts) a year or two ago, then amped up to the nth degree in a way Balmain often aspires to do but without turning into the colossally gaudy utter failure of basic proportion and silhouette that Olivier Rousteing delivers with every single collection.

The silk granny headscarves à la Queen Elizabeth II (RIP) are comically bad, especially the one with pigtails printed on it -- menswear is already filled with skirts nobody asked for, do we really need to turn the Gucci Guy into Anne of Green Gables?
 
I do like the salon setting (even if the collection doesn't match), but it does seem suspicious to use it after 6 years of declining sales.

I don't think skipping shows would be smart for a brand like Givenchy unless they decide to go down the quiet luxury route.

If they're looking for a new creative director, the best place to look would be in Ghesquière's immediate team at Louis Vuitton.
 
This is a look book at best. And even then its a very bad look book hahhahahha
 

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