It's not cohesive, it's not impressive, but it has glimmers of ideas that work -- and even if it's just the inherent relief of it as palate cleanser, I'd take it in a heartbeat over the mindless crap it replaced. Even mediocrity beats self-parody. So, I guess, exactly the same way I feel about the new Gucci.
The DB teddy coat is very nice, and it's a relief that it wasn't saddled with any logos or other gimmickry to differentiate it from the Max Mara variety it can't help but resemble.
The chandelier print pants with actual pearls dripping from the design is kind of awesome in a don't-pretend-it's-good-taste kind of way; it reminds me of a single pearl earring embellishment Loewe did (on one of its Studio Ghibli anime print t-shirts) a year or two ago, then amped up to the nth degree in a way Balmain often aspires to do but without turning into the colossally gaudy utter failure of basic proportion and silhouette that Olivier Rousteing delivers with every single collection.
The silk granny headscarves à la Queen Elizabeth II (RIP) are comically bad, especially the one with pigtails printed on it -- menswear is already filled with skirts nobody asked for, do we really need to turn the Gucci Guy into Anne of Green Gables?