Givenchy Resort 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

Womenswear:



VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

Menswear:



VOGUE.COM

 

[yslforever]

It's weak and superfluous, you can already have all those looks from Balenciaga, and better thought (if you compare the cheetah coat to the KK Hourglass Balenciaga one).

 

[THD96]

Wow the lack of identity and confidence in this collection is so obvious that it hurt to look at.
You can slap the logos as many as you want much there is nothing Givenchy about this.

It's get weaker and weaker by the season. These clothes looks like they belong to the department store clearance sale rack.

Good luck getting your contract renew with these types of collections.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Wow the lack of identity and confidence in this collection is so obvious that it hurt to look at.
You can slap the logos as many as you want much there is nothing Givenchy about this.

It's get weaker and weaker by the season. These clothes looks like they belong to the department store clearance sale rack.

Good luck getting your contract renew with these types of collections.

I feel he's not going anywhere. E v e r y single fashion house is like this rn. It all looks like "merch", clearance stuff, sterile stuff specifically made for outlet malls. They're all doing it. Givenchy, Versace, Pucci, Prada, Cavalli, D&G etc etc etc etc. It's S O depressing. Really.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Faux French Michael Kors

 

[mikel]

Wow the lack of identity and confidence in this collection is so obvious that it hurt to look at.
You can slap the logos as many as you want much there is nothing Givenchy about this.

Not even the Audrey Hepburn little black dress???

 

[perhydrol]

I love how Matthew referenced Givenchy from the 50s and 60s and picked up an archival print from the '80s yet completely forgot to mention Clare Waight Keller's spring/summer 2020 collection which had had an obvious influence on this one. I must say, it's not critically bad, at least it doesn't look like that awful emo/punk Divided line from H&M but it's getting more and more obvious that Williams's stuff is just not good enough for the house.

I will not comment on the menswear tho. There must be a person in their design team who has been pushing their "sportswear" slash motorcycle gear aesthetic and I'd like to see that person out of this house because it doesn't work, has nothing to do with Givenchy, even the Tisci's one, AT ALL and doesn't sell that well to begin with.

 

[Lola701]

This looks like an Alexander Wang collection. It would have been a good Wang collection actually…To bad it’s mediocre for Givenchy…

E v e r y single fashion house is like this rn. It all looks like "merch", clearance stuff, sterile stuff specifically made for outlet malls. They're all doing it. Givenchy, Versace, Pucci, Prada, Cavalli, D&G etc etc etc etc. It's S O depressing. Really.

It’s terrible but it’s true. At the same time the saddest thing is that this is what the luxury customer wants today: branded versions of things he wears everyday.

The runway collections are produced in limited quantities, available in a handful of stores and the mass gets the branded stuff.

While I appreciate that brands are selling RTW again, it’s a bit sad to see that fashion has disappeared from the stores. The sense of « wardrobe » has shifted for « merchandise ».

Contemporary brands are the only ones really pushing fashion tbh.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Well this is just Alyx. Not interested. Will see next season.

 

[Frederic01]

Appallingly banal and commercial to the point where it looks like some random New York Fashion Week collection from circa the mid 2000's. The menswear (supposedly his strength?) is even worse than Clare Waight Keller! And the womenswear? Oh dear, its bad. No point of view, boring, redundant, and depressing. Even the British designers have a more developed signature than MW at this stage.

This House was on the right track with CWK, I don't understand why they let her go instead of investing more into her vision. As I said before in a previous Givenchy thread, LVMH should left CWK to focus on womenswear and MW should have come in and focused on menswear only. Givenchy as a brand has the potential to rival a brand like Dior in terms of influence and $$$, if they adopt the right strategy. But as we can see, they chose instead to appoint someone purely based on hype and "streetwear cred".

The results of that "strategy" speaks for itself...

 

[Lola701]

Appallingly banal and commercial to the point where it looks like some random New York Fashion Week collection from circa the mid 2000's. The menswear (supposedly his strength?) is even worse than Clare Waight Keller! And the womenswear? Oh dear, its bad. No point of view, boring, redundant, and depressing. Even the British designers have a more developed signature than MW at this stage.

This House was on the right track with CWK, I don't understand why they let her go instead of investing more into her vision. As I said before in a previous Givenchy thread, LVMH should left CWK to focus on womenswear and MW should have come in and focused on menswear only. Givenchy as a brand has the potential to rival a brand like Dior in terms of influence and $$$, if they adopt the right strategy. But as we can see, they chose instead to appoint someone purely based on hype and "streetwear cred".

The results of that "strategy" speaks for itself...

But Clare on the paper had everything under her belt to make it work tho. What she did before in menswear and womenswear indicated a real good promise.jjj
Unfortunately, she was never confident in her vision. I will never understand why she presented modern, slick Couture but 80’s inspired RTW. The only time she got it right was with her last collection…But it was too late.

The success of Vaccarello at YSL is the proof that you don’t need to be a good menswear designer. Let’s be honest, Hedi did all the foundations, everything the team has to do is add color ways, details and some pieces. They will organize a fashion show showing pieces only a handful of people will buy. The idea of a YSL man is bigger than it reality.

And while we are talking about weird strategic decisions: ARIVENCHY?

 

[grimm]

A “postponed” couture collection and now this lookbook with minimum investment from a production point of view: it all signals one thing. The suits have cut off the tap and are letting him see out his contract until the next merch machine generator comes along.

 

[JoCaderone]

So bland and boring, just like everything he has done for Givenchy

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The women's wear feels eerily similar to Olivier Lapidus' "moment" at Lanvin. It's just so cold and lifeless, like the most banal tech packs come to life. There is no vision or point of view with it, which makes it even worse.

The men's wear I don't even understand. I see some of the uni students dress like this at my work and I don't get it because it's like the Berlin/DJ hype-beast equivalent of a chad-bro. Matthew seems like the kind of person I would hate to talk to because it would be like getting blood out of a stone as there's just nothing there, and these clothes feel like that.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

This looks like an interim collection in between designers. This appointment has been a disaster since day one. Everyone knew that he had no business at a Maison like Givenchy. This epic failure shouldn't come as a shock. That's what happens when you hire a stylist instead of a designer.

 

[LadyJunon]

A “postponed” couture collection and now this lookbook with minimum investment from a production point of view: it all signals one thing. The suits have cut off the tap and are letting him see out his contract until the next merch machine generator comes along.

I wish that this was the case, but Williams is getting his first solo Menswear show in June. I guess they're focusing on the lucrative cashcow (Menswear and those tumor sneakers he keeps pushing) instead the domain that shifts between clothes for women who can settle for better than "Alyx: The Handsewn Edition" and a loss leading opportunity to showcase nonexistent talent.

 

[RaisinBoy]

m e d I o c r e at best....

 

[GoldenTribe]

Appallingly banal and commercial ... The menswear (supposedly his strength?) is even worse than Clare Waight Keller!

I agree completely with "banal and commercial"; the clothes in this thread are terrible, so I don't want anyone to mistake me for a Matthew Williams defender, but I just registered because somebody has to say it -- Clare Waight Keller's menswear for Givenchy (I don't even remember the runway, I'm talking about the stuff sold at SSense, Mr.Porter, etc.) was THE worst "designer" men's clothing I have ever seen since I started paying attention to fashion circa 2004. It was a bunch of the laziest, sloppiest nylon and cotton-jersey basics (and I mean basics that Old Navy would turn its nose up at) with the laziest, sloppiest logos strewn haphazardly across it.

The menswear I see in this thread is better than CWK's unforgivable, unforgettably bad merchandise. I don't even know how to find it easily any more, but here are the first two pieces I found on second-hand sites that I recognized from CWK's tenure:



[TheRealReal.com]


[ikrix.com]


I find them nauseating, and I'd much rather wear Matthew Williams, even if the only thing I like about any of his clothes is the chunky zipper pulls.

In terms of footwear I might have to agree with you, since CWK just slapped some lame 'tech' logos on pretty normal shoes, whereas MW is obsessed with giant inflated-looking rubber/plastic monstrosities. I don't even know what that's about, except that with Bottega and others on the same or similar trajectories (everyone is selling logo slide sandals, tall rainboots, horrible clogs, and sock-knit sneakers), I assume it is less about design and more about maximizing profit by selling footwear made of cheap materials at prices comparable to real leather shoes. $800 for a really nice dress shoe -- especially with embellishments or might be justifiable (at least to the folks who would ever consider such a purchase), but $700 for some rubber and polyester mesh is grotesque in any context.

 

[Frederic01]

I agree completely with "banal and commercial"; the clothes in this thread are terrible, so I don't want anyone to mistake me for a Matthew Williams defender, but I just registered because somebody has to say it -- Clare Waight Keller's menswear for Givenchy (I don't even remember the runway, I'm talking about the stuff sold at SSense, Mr.Porter, etc.) was THE worst "designer" men's clothing I have ever seen since I started paying attention to fashion circa 2004. It was a bunch of the laziest, sloppiest nylon and cotton-jersey basics (and I mean basics that Old Navy would turn its nose up at) with the laziest, sloppiest logos strewn haphazardly across it.

The menswear I see in this thread is better than CWK's unforgivable, unforgettably bad merchandise. I don't even know how to find it easily any more, but here are the first two pieces I found on second-hand sites that I recognized from CWK's tenure:

The merchandise is exactly the same under this current MW tenure. 80% of what is being sold through the wholesale retailers is based around slapping on the logo on a hoodie or t-shirt, let's be honest. Even worse is that Givenchy/LVMH is going the route of extremely cringey collab merchandise. Look at their recent Disney collab. So stupid.


GIVENCHY

The problem with all these brands is that they saw how easily they could make money from selling all these cheap, low-quality pieces to the masses. A t-shirt and hoodie with a logo probably costs $50 to make, and they sell it for $1500-$2000 in the boutique. Furthermore all these brands want to constantly grow and compete against each other and they have no idea how to make money apart from churning out all this cr*p. Its a cultural quagmire that we're now stuck in. I don't see it improving anytime soon tbh.

I digress. MW was the wrong choice of artistic director for a brand as big as Givenchy. He simply does not have the vision or limitless creativity that is required. What's more, the brand has been severely mismanaged over the years since Tisci's departure. They have such an extraordinary opportunity with the archives and the history, not to mention that they own the beauty division. So many lost opportunities! Not only do they need a new Artistic Director, but they need a new CEO too and probably an entire new management team.

IMO Hedi Slimane should have gone to Givenchy instead of Celine. It had everything he wanted - Womenswear, Menswear, Beauty, Parfums, Haute Couture. He has the necessary vision to unify everything and make it a commercial success.