Gucci Mens F/W 09.10 Milan

[LagerfeldBoy]

i like it! no, almost loving it. ok i'll admit she's done this whole concept and idea and blah before for her menswear but i still like it. it's very youthful and rock n woll which are factors of me liking it. however, i wonder how it's going to be translated into womenswear?

 

[disco54]

this skinny rocker look is soo over done its overkill now , all the shows in milan churn the same crap out

 

[Peregrina_RZ]

as always, one of the best menswear collections.

 

[AnaBGD]

Boring and seen before, but some of it is still good. Definitely better than last season, so hopefully womenswear will go in this direction too, at least when it comes to color palette. But regardless, it can't be worse than SS09.

 

[Dkammern]

what's with the hue blue?
last week i "accidentally" visited the dior homme dep store here in barcelona and the blue was everywhere...
it made me think of dsquared and bikkenberg... just like this!

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

omg the 1st 3 r perfect prom outfits
for me..i cant afford this so ill hav 2 replicate it

 

[homeboy]

Frida's inconsistency is laughable. From what I've seen, the men's collection is only good once during a time frame of 18 months.

 

[GaryMoore]

hmm i quite like this a lot.

im glad that shes using leggings/long johns. Ive been wearing my american apparrel long johns since spring 08. Looks like ill be investing in a few new pairs.

 

[caliboy672180]

Reminds me SO much of the current Kris Van Assche's Dior homme.


Oh god...I need a drink...

more like slimane's dior homme. though i will agree that the whole brit look is not a fresh inspiration, hell its been almost a decade since slimane did it the first time, i still kind of like it. but i agree with who ever said that similar, and better priced items can be found at nearly every topman and h&m.

more importantly, what does this mean for the women's collection? a weak rehashing of trends might work for men's fashion but not for women's.

 

[visconti]

Useless. 95% of the boutiques won't stock this stuff because there's no client for it. She's clearly only doing skinny pants for trendiness sake. These pants look like they'd fit like Cheap Mondays. So why would you spend Gucci $$$ for them? You get the sense that she's one of the only ones who not only likes the direction KVA is taking Dior, but actually draws inspiration from his missteps. But, as a friend of mine commented, by next season we could be back in Russia or off on some other flight of fancy. So it doesn't really matter does it?

 

[nicholas2505]

Ghastly! how long are they going to let this charade go on?

 

[Spike413]

It pains me to admit that I think I like these shoes, though I can't really tell. But I think they have some kind of color change finish on them.

http://16.imagebam.com/dl.php?ID=24091540&sec=d335078668b7956c7aeac9a8af67db62

Other than that what is there to say? This woman has never met a cliche she didn't like, and I don't think you can find her equal when it comes to picking up only the most irrelevant of trends to spin into a collection. Everyone else is doing sharp, severe tailoring with an emphasis on spare coats, so she pours on the layers of over-embellished, under-designed pseudo-rock star garbage and has the nerve to call it luxury.

I guess those execs at Gucci know what they're doing by letting this overrated cobbler moonlight as the creative director of a formerly influential luxury label. Surely there's a logical reason why they've sat back for 3 years and let her make a joke of herself and the house she's running.

 

[TraiT]

more like slimane's dior homme. though i will agree that the whole brit look is not a fresh inspiration, hell its been almost a decade since slimane did it the first time, i still kind of like it. but i agree with who ever said that similar, and better priced items can be found at nearly every topman and h&m.

more importantly, what does this mean for the women's collection? a weak rehashing of trends might work for men's fashion but not for women's.

In my opinion, Slimane's dior homme's very indie, of course, but not looking as commercial as THIS.

And about my reference with Kris Van Assche's dior homme, I'm directly linking to his spring 09 collection. That's why...

 

[Flashbang]

it's neither.

it's hell for men and their "good parts".

i just like the dusty black suit and the shoes

 

[Street_a_Licious]

more like slimane's dior homme. though i will agree that the whole brit look is not a fresh inspiration, hell its been almost a decade since slimane did it the first time, i still kind of like it. but i agree with who ever said that similar, and better priced items can be found at nearly every topman and h&m.

more importantly, what does this mean for the women's collection? a weak rehashing of trends might work for men's fashion but not for women's.

it's not like she doesn't do exactly that for women's.....

 

[reese06]

January 19, 2009
Pet Shop Boys' "It's Alright" delivered Frida Giannini's message for today, as Milan's arch-eighties aficionado presented a collection of clothes inspired by power pop, the most optimistic face that new wave ever offered to the world. The shiny, tight little jacquard suits, the primary-colored shirts (kelly green a particular aide-mèmoire for Those Who Were There) matched with skinny ties, the leopard-print knits, the two-tone loafers, the tonic jeans, the checkerboard trim on a cardigan…ah, the memories came flooding back. The Lurex! The leggings! The Lurex leggings! Frida didn't miss a trick. She even managed a coat in a maroon mélange that hasn't been seen since the sun set on Danceteria.

More problematically, Giannini also shrank the already reduced proportions of her menswear to a positively toothpick point. There was some fascination in jackets in (my little) pony or python with biker-zip detailing. Likewise, the willful luxury element: glazed astrakhan, paillette-sprinkled nutria. But you had to wonder…Who? Where? Maybe the front row supplied the answer. Mark Ronson was sitting there in a red suit. "After the first four outfits, I was thinking, I'd wear that, literally the whole outfit," he said when the show was over. He was having fun because Frida had mentioned the Klaxons and the Mystery Jets as inspirations in her show notes. "I'm friends with those guys, so I was trying to work out which band member would wear what." Who? Where? There's your answer, provided those price tags bend a lot for the boys who are most likely to want these clothes.
— Tim Blanks

I like this collection but I think Tim Blanks is spot on with his review of the show.

 

[Luxx]

Oh god...I need a drink...

ours drink:

Here you go darling. Lets get drunk and forget all this HORROR.

 

[Dkammern]

This woman has never met a cliche she didn't like, [...] Everyone else is doing sharp, severe tailoring with an emphasis on spare coats, so she pours on the layers of over-embellished, under-designed pseudo-rock star garbage and has the nerve to call it luxury.

if i could fit all of that on the text under the user name!!! no, seriously: SPOT ON!

and for once: i am liking a tim blanks review!!

 

[Street_a_Licious]

Other than that what is there to say? This woman has never met a cliche she didn't like, and I don't think you can find her equal when it comes to picking up only the most irrelevant of trends to spin into a collection. Everyone else is doing sharp, severe tailoring with an emphasis on spare coats, so she pours on the layers of over-embellished, under-designed pseudo-rock star garbage and has the nerve to call it luxury.

she's "revolutionary"! she likes to "go against the mainstream"! cause she's "cool" and "down with it".

*insert cool pose here*

 

[Spike413]

Suzy's take, from iht.com

It's only rock 'n' roll, but Frida Giannini likes it

A young man with skinny legs, a fat wallet and a penchant for heavy metal on his iPod and on his clothes - that is the designer Frida Giannini's tunnel vision for Gucci. Assume that the "tunnel" is actually a hip underground club, where her post-Punk 1980s music heroes - The Gossip, The Killers, Klaxons and Friendly Fire - play on, inspiring the Gucci guy to be forever rock 'n' roll.

Yet up in the real world, "killers" and "friendly fire" have quite a different resonance. There are wars going on - territorial and financial. It was a brave gesture for the Gucci show Monday to face off the gloom by putting colored shirts under slim suits, brightening up fabrics with polka dots and hairy surfaces and turning even classic loafers into a three-tone patchwork of pattern and color. You have a job, so celebrate!

For the rest - to complain, yet again, that Gucci is too rock 'n' roll sounds like one of those 1980s New Wave bands stuck in a groove. This is the path that Giannini has chosen. And taken out of the context of drab Milan shoppers scurrying around the sales and the pervading executive gloom, the designer did well for the autumn/winter season, using a taut silhouette; short jackets, buttoned low; and slim pants. Everything from a velvet-soft pony skin jacket to leopard print looked classy.

There was some strong outerwear, like a double layer nylon jacket. If the show was short on evening clothes, perhaps there is no call for the Gucci tuxedo now that suave bankers no longer hold soirées. A leather jacket for a night out is now a better investment. (But perhaps not the Lurex cardigan.)

Fashion has to mirror its time, which is why most Milan shows are sober, if not somber. Gucci is bucking that trend, especially with accessories, where even a sporty backpack had a hefty hanging chain. But Giannini is not chained to a certain image - and sometime she will need to click on a new tune.

Suzy's really going soft these days.

It makes me wish Cathy Horyn did mens coverage for NYT.