Gucci Uomo AW 05-06

[Heroin_Chic]

mm...it's nice, but they're just the "gucci men" i used to see for years. is he trying to make gucci not breaking the classic gucci men look, or he just want to keep tom ford's style to maintain the reputation?

I think it`s good that Tom Ford`s replacements almost copy him - it makes his departure a little less drastic for all of us and it`s the necessary respect for his outstanding work!

Also: the brands need to maintain their look/reputation and the new Designers are "on the safe side" by not trying to "revolutionize" the brand.

 

[Spacemiu]

Same as ever, it dosn't matter where toms gone

 

[Spike413]

I just hate the fact that this collection doesn't show any sign of the new creative directors personality, it's basically a replication of a few different Gucci mens collections and that totally bores me. At least last season there were different touches and a different vibe then what was going on at Gucci before Tom left, to be honest I liked that one better.

 

[metal-on-metal]

Between s/s 2005 and this show, I really can't see the difference from the Ford-era. I think if the Gucci customer didn't know Tom had left, he certainly wouldn't notice from the clothes in the shops. Whether that's good or bad... I don't know. I think Gucci is in a very precarious situation: the Tom Ford stuff is what sells, but there's also a great need to develop a new identity or risk being labeled 'copycats' (though even that is a little ridiculous since John Ray has been behind the scenes at Gucci Uomo for years).

 

[steeltoe]

Wasn't it quoted before that Ray was already designing at Gucci men's even before Ford officially handed Creative Direction under him? So, I dunno, but the Tom Ford look we've seen the past few seasons might actually be Ray's "look", Tom just approves whether it works.

At any rate, it's a pretty safe Gucci show. Nothing too special for me.

 

[Alejandro]

^ Whatever, don't mind it...

 

[softgrey]

i think it's very elegant stylish menswear...
very gucci...(which can only be good...since it IS gucci)...
very wise to maintain the brand image and not risk alienating any customers...

i think this harkens back to 'vintage' gucci...in the early days of the ford era when things were more androgynous...and in my opinion...sexier...very touchable fabrics...they even look yummy in the pics...imagine what they must be like in person...mmmmmmm.....

leaves me wanting more...

 

[Whimsicalist]

what you seen as ford might always for the last 4 seasons being john ray...
i can exegate his subscribe there...despite tom was who had saying hallo on public

 

[liberty33r1b]

overall, very good collection, especially the luggage pieces!

 

[Lena]

Wasn't it quoted before that Ray was already designing at Gucci men's even before Ford officially handed Creative Direction under him? So, I dunno, but the Tom Ford look we've seen the past few seasons might actually be Ray's "look", Tom just approves whether it works.
.

d i t t o

sad thing is that gucci's new designers seem not to be allowed to take the 'so-called-Ford-look' further...
repeating a 'succesful' recipe is not always as safe as it seems zzzzzzz

 

[mdankwah]

Personaly I feel the second collection for a new designer is very important but with this new guy I'm still undecided.

 

[Mr-Dale]

 

[Whimsicalist]

Sorry ,I am not sure Tom ford was responsible for the success..
see what a substantial discrepance between female (al mc queen) and male (john ray)

the man just continuing to do what he is doing the best

 

[mikeijames]

i think it's very elegant stylish menswear...
very gucci...(which can only be good...since it IS gucci)...
very wise to maintain the brand image and not risk alienating any customers...

i think this harkens back to 'vintage' gucci...in the early days of the ford era when things were more androgynous...and in my opinion...sexier...very touchable fabrics...they even look yummy in the pics...imagine what they must be like in person...mmmmmmm.....

leaves me wanting more...

i think the group alienated whatever customer they could by letting ford go, but i think it's clear that ppr was quite pleased with ford in the gucci arena, the problem must have been ysl. i can say that after seeing the whole collection, there are genuinely john ray moments. i think john ray's much more romantic yet refined than ford.

 

[Spike413]

Hmm, some of it was really good (those all black looks that opened the show) but some of it just veered into kind of odd take offs on past Ford collections. The silk robes looked like a hybrid of the kimonos from s/s 03 and the pajamas of f/w 03, but they lacked that flair. The velvet jackets, though interestingly detailed, were a little too elaborate imo, but that's a personal taste issue. Overall, it's very similar to things Tom did and the image he created, but it just didn't have the same va-va voom excitment he somehow managed to create.

Buisness wise I think it'll sell because there are plenty of luxe pieces that any guy would want, but as a collection it just felt a little....off.

 

[Theory]

This coat that opened the show is great....I like the slight detailing at the bottom

 

[Spike413]

This coat that opened the show is great....I like the slight detailing at the bottom

I'd wear that whole look, very classic, very cool.

 

[MalibuBarbie]

big improvment from spring,summer -- not as good as Tom, but its pretty good!

 

[Deleted member 1957]

i like the first suit best. theres just somethign about men's handbags that just doesnt click with me

 

[birdofparadise]

Very interesting article in Feb GQ on John Ray and his design philosophy. A snippet:

"The thing about testosterone--" he says with distaste. "Words like that and playboy and jet set--all these things for me are so '90s. That's what I was trying to get away from in this collection. Because every designer in Italy has done playboy, and they've done testosterone-crazy. And it's all been about the...crotch! I don't know what the new Gucci man is yet. But I feel a change coming. We're about at that pont where we're going to move away a bit from Mr. Testosterone to something a little more sensual."