Gucci Uomo AW 05-06

[baklanyc]

Very interesting article in Feb GQ on John Ray and his design philosophy. A snippet:

"The thing about testosterone--" he says with distaste. "Words like that and playboy and jet set--all these things for me are so '90s. That's what I was trying to get away from in this collection. Because every designer in Italy has done playboy, and they've done testosterone-crazy. And it's all been about the...crotch! I don't know what the new Gucci man is yet. But I feel a change coming. We're about at that pont where we're going to move away a bit from Mr. Testosterone to something a little more sensual."

Definitely feel that. There's a flow to this collection (most notably in the looser pants and less constrictive structure of the jackets, the velvets in particular) that I like. Maybe because I was never a Gucci customer - these pieces look like actiual ones I would buy and be able to incorporate into my wardrobe without looking like Tom. I agree with Soft (again!) in that Ray isn't trying to alienate customers because at the store level, I think these peices will sell. It always annoyed me that what Tom would show on the runway was never as flashy or as fitted in final production, but for some reason, I feel this season will be more consistent. Actually, it's a weird mix of vintage YSL and Costume National to me...

 

[softgrey]

thanks for that post birdofparadise...and welcome to tfs...
sounds good to me...i'm all for moving away from the playboy/jetset 'wallpaper' magazine image...it's a bit dated at this point...

things seem to be going in the same direction in womenswear too...good news to my ears...and my eyes...

 

[Oria]

Very interesting article in Feb GQ on John Ray and his design philosophy. A snippet:

"The thing about testosterone--" he says with distaste. "Words like that and playboy and jet set--all these things for me are so '90s. That's what I was trying to get away from in this collection. Because every designer in Italy has done playboy, and they've done testosterone-crazy. And it's all been about the...crotch! I don't know what the new Gucci man is yet. But I feel a change coming. We're about at that pont where we're going to move away a bit from Mr. Testosterone to something a little more sensual."

Bravo! This I can agree with!

Thanks for sharing.

 

[birdofparadise]

I felt that overall, it's a new kind of personal luxury...

You see it much more in womenswear, the idea of women dressing for themselves and not for men--which doesn't mean there is a lack of sex appeal.
The new Gucci man seems to be striving for something more personal while not killing the luxury factor. On the runway at least, he is dressing for himself.

 

[Acid]

Im so happy for Scott to get this show, i really knew he could do it!

The designer was so nice, he told me 'you would look great in the coats' they were so nice, i wanted them all

Pharell williams was at the show.

 

[Spike413]

I do love the pants, but then I've got quite a soft spot for wide leg trousers

They're very glamourous, almost 1930's black and white movie star looking.

 

[baklanyc]

I do love the pants, but then I've got quite a soft spot for wide leg trousers

They're very glamourous, almost 1930's black and white movie star looking.

True, but without the weird 30s jacket shapes that Armani was doing a season or two ago... ugh, those...!

 

[elegy]

I really liked the looks presented by Gucci. I agree its very elegant and the fabrics used look very lush. Some of the things worn remind me of the victorian period remixed. Though i havent seen past men collections by Gucci, I like this type of style. All of the pieces look very rich and have great detailing. As for this being Scott's second collection and reusing Tom's old pieces, lets just see how Scott develop his own style collection by collection.

 

[baklanyc]

There's a three page article in the February 2005 American GQ about Ray's helming Gucci post-Ford. I have yet to read it, but it might be of inerest to anyone who might want to pick it up.

 

[softgrey]

I really liked the looks presented by Gucci. I agree its very elegant and the fabrics used look very lush. Some of the things worn remind me of the victorian period remixed. Though i havent seen past men collections by Gucci, I like this type of style. All of the pieces look very rich and have great detailing. As for this being Scott's second collection and reusing Tom's old pieces, lets just see how Scott develop his own style collection by collection.

scott?...
i think you mean john ray...

 

[elegy]

sry, yep, John.

 

[Acid]

scott?...
i think you mean john ray...

maybe he read what i wrote and got confused.

(when i said scott i meant the model who had been hoping to get cast the whone week)

 

[Spike413]

maybe he read what i wrote and got confused.

(when i said scott i meant the model who had been hoping to get cast the whone week)

Any pics?

 

[Acid]

here......

 

[Spike413]

here......

Gorgeous hair, he kind of reminds me of The Vampire Lestat

 

[Acid]

the music in the show was very repetitive, one of those tunes that will take forever to get out of your head.

it was like some bells being played with a really tight bassy back beat.

 

[Salvatore]

Awesome! I wish there was a place I could see part of the shows

 

[LeEtoile]

Scott is a funny kid... REALLY soft spoken.... I love just about everything here! I want!

 

[snowqueen]

that clutch would be cute for the office (oh sorrry men dont want to e cute so its very manly lol)

 

[baklanyc]

that clutch would be cute for the office (oh sorrry men dont want to e cute so its very manly lol)

Did you see the thread on manbags? Apparently most of America still has difficulty even with shoulder-slung messenger styles! Oh the horror...