Haider Ackermann - Designer, Creative Director of Canada Goose & Tom Ford

[FashionPower]

The prices are giving wannabe CHANEL, remember the 5k tshirt from Virginie with couple sequins embroidered? LOL

 

[Lola701]

The pricing is expected for anyone familiar with Tom Ford tbh.
A 5K leather tshirt by Tom Ford is far less shocking than a 5K cotton tshirt from Chanel.

Tbh, I was afraid that Zegna would increase the prices in a crazy way but it’s in line with what the brand has been for quite some time.

And Tom Ford was far from outrageously expensive in it early days. Exotic skin everywhere, real gold on jewelry, nappa leather everywhere…

They positioned themselves as super expensive from the start. But it fitted the very polarizing aesthetic too.

There are a lot of things that I like. I won’t spend 5K on a tshirt but I love a lot of things. The sequined suit on Liu Wen is almost sold out on NAP. I’m hoping that before January they have a store or stockist in Paris so that I have a global appreciation of the collection.

 

[tricotineacetat]

The prices are giving wannabe CHANEL, remember the 5k tshirt from Virginie with couple sequins embroidered? LOL

View attachment 1406055

If you think the plongé leather t-shirt is the most outrageously-priced item in the collection, you should rather have a look at the tuxedo bib shirt made from the same leather - At a whopping 13.490 USD, it costs twice as much as one of the signature suits in the collection (jacket at 4.990 USD + trousers at 1.990 USD) - A tough seller, considering the suit will likely be the hottest item to take away from this first collection, as this is by far the best women‘s tailoring Haider has ever made.

 

[TurkicMongol]

I think the new TF is lacking its trademark sex appeal. The above tuxedo shirt if it was made of sheer fabric would be more in line with its very glamorous and sl*tty trademark. I think HA's approach is too sexually constrained for TF.


source: AP
I am still thinking about his FW2011 and it had potential.

 

[tricotineacetat]

If I‘m being honest, I am happy Haider is likely took null on the c*nty, pop vibe of Tom Ford (Tom’s farewell collection did not summarize his long career in a good way, highlighting the 'bad taste' aspect of his work, instead of the exquisiteness that always put him above Cavalli and Versace).

I love Tom Ford but the womenswear at his own house never felt quite as accomplished as the menswear he set the company up with. It needed snd still needs to diversify from the nocturnal, hedonist creature vibe we associate the brand with - With Haider, you get a little bit of ease and androgynous edginess Tom Ford never had, which I welcome.

 

[Caffeine]

Tom Ford is about sex style. Tilda is more about sexless style. There´s a problem here...

Is it? I found it quite sexy? Doesn't she have two men under the same roof? That's not a sexless life I guess? As a straight woman, I always find Tilda very sexy! (Or perhaps that's the problem )

 

[brandon J pierre]

Is it? I found it quite sexy? Doesn't she have two men under the same roof? That's not a sexless life I guess? As a straight woman, I always find Tilda very sexy! (Or perhaps that's the problem )

It could Be for some, i also think she can pull off sex but with a certain amount of intelligence behind it. She's not sexual in the sense of having sex with a blow up doll. Sex with a real woman a personality behind. I saw the commercial last night on YouTube.It was really chic, well done.

 

[HigthaVandah]

It could Be for some, i also think she can pull off sex but with a certain amount of intelligence behind it. She's not sexual in the sense of having sex with a blow up doll. Sex with a real woman a personality behind. I saw the commercial last night on YouTube.It was really chic, well done.

To be clear, I agree with you and "not sexual in the sense of having sex with a blow up doll" is a both hilarious and accurate way of putting it. A lot of YSL imagery these days reads generically sexy like that to me. "I'm sexy! Look at my long stockinged legs!" Okay, but what are you like in bed? Or anywhere else, for that matter? "Sexy! And wealthy!"

Ackerman seems to be going for a more specific appeal. I like it myself but I wonder if some of the mass appeal will be sacrificed.

 

[TurkicMongol]

How could I forget she used to have two men! But she is just not that kind of woman that average straight men would find her sexually attractive.

 

[Lola701]

How could I forget she used to have two men! But she is just not that kind of woman that average straight men would find her sexually attractive.

But the idea of the Tom Ford sexiness has never been about that kind of gaze. The ultimate Tom Ford woman, Carine Roitfeld, was never your s** kitten.
Tom Ford was/is great at create a sexual tension rather display overt sexuality. Of course there were moments in campaigns but that’s it.
Even during the Gucci days. It was about Attitude.
When I think about the most emblematic Tom Ford models, they were rarely bombshell.

For me, Tom Ford is about confidence and attitude. The sexiness part comes from the little tricks of details like three buttons open on a shirt, wearing your silk jersey tshirt without a bra, wearing fancy lingerie under a very conservative look.

It’s less overt than Versace, or Cavalli or even in some ways, than Alaia in the 80s/90’s. But even with that, I don’t straight men are that really into it either. They are very intimidated by this kind of overt sexuality…Unless when you are in some places in Monaco, NYC, Rio or others. But that’s probably another conversation as it generally involve some kind of exchanges…

 

[Avonlea]

I think everyone has their own idea of who a “Tom Ford woman” is. For me, she’ll always be the one from his Spring/Summer 2011 collection, which is still my favorite of everything he’s done after Gucci and YSL. She’s the kind of woman who buys classic couture but isn’t afraid of a little bad taste. She lives in a big Texas mansion filled with European antiques, but she also has Warhols and Basquiats on her walls. She might wear Ralph Rucci, but she’ll throw on loud statement jewelry and walk with a glass of whiskey in her hand. It’s that mix of tradition and decadence, the tension between conservatism and hedonism.

Of course it's just my interpretation/fantasy which probably has little to do with the actual client.

 

[HigthaVandah]

the little tricks of details like three buttons open on a shirt, wearing your silk jersey tshirt without a bra, wearing fancy lingerie under a very conservative look

That's almost exactly how I picture a "sex kitten" outfit. Not necessarily a wilting flower type of sexy.

 

[PDFSD]

If I‘m being honest, I am happy Haider is likely took null on the c*nty, pop vibe of Tom Ford (Tom’s farewell collection did not summarize his long career in a good way, highlighting the 'bad taste' aspect of his work, instead of the exquisiteness that always put him above Cavalli and Versace).

I love Tom Ford but the womenswear at his own house never felt quite as accomplished as the menswear he set the company up with. It needed and still needs to diversify from the nocturnal, hedonist creature vibe we associate the brand with - With Haider, you get a little bit of ease and androgynous edginess Tom Ford never had, which I welcome.

for me its a classic case of what one was missing in latest years , the other is doing to much of it now.

HA can be himself but he should ad a touch/a drop of th c pop /bad taste into his TF to make it have more edge if not its going to be to much for him and his small circle of supporters.

i personally felt that later tom year where too disney/tacky and it lacked the restrain or ease but somehow its has same stiffness that HA has now like the hair and makeup ..stiffness as in outdated

 

[Kanzai]

I miss first half of 2010s Haider, there is a prominent shift in aesthetic after he joined Berluti – more restrained, understated, colder color and more razor sharp cut. But this guy can work for any house if I’m being honest; For Tom Ford, he just need to get the right attitude to adapt the semi-POP spirit of the house.

 

[TurkicMongol]

I don't think HA is a very versatile designer. He is that kind of puritanical good-taste maker can do wonder for Hermes, BV or JS, but a huge no for brands known for their sultriness and overly sexuality like Versace, Cavalli or even Alaia. His debut is good for his own brand or brands like Dries but misses the mark on TF.

 

[Lola701]

We have seen 1 collection but I think Haider’s work for Tom Ford will become more interesting when/if he really infuses a lot of himself.
His own collections had that sensuality, that bad taste through the mix of patterns and that glamour quality through his love for luscious fabrics.

He is quite versatile. Tbh, as much as I love him, before Berluti, I wouldn’t have imagine him doing this kind of very controlled fashion.

His own collections were very specific and changed in a subtle way from seasons to seasons. And his Berluti therefore was very different from his own collections. This is coming after Gaultier so there’s that same language.

I’m less afraid by the capacity of Haider to make Tom Ford shine again than I am for his capacity to commit to the position. There’s a crisis of stability in fashion today and for smaller brands, it’s an important issue.

 

[PDFSD]

I don't think HA is a very versatile designer. He is that kind of puritanical good-taste maker can do wonder for Hermes, BV or JS, but a huge no for brands known for their sultriness and overly sexuality like Versace, Cavalli or even Alaia. His debut is good for his own brand or brands like Dries but misses the mark on TF.

Yes i think JS would be great for him for real .....the mix of color and sharp tailoring and experimentation with drape and cut and being snobbish and serious it could be a raf JS 3.0 this is a good fit tilda lesbian intellectual chic fits perfect.

BV also a good option but Kering management are to cheap of taste to understand to hire him the only would if TF is success and then want him because if this.

i agree in the end its not IT for TF i see it being stale real fast , also to high brow and niche but not the TF niche.

 

[Phuel]

LMFAO whenever I read the title of this thread: Haider Ackerman - Designer, Creative Director of Canada Goose & Tom Ford… What actual input would he have other than quickly signing off on their team’s overpriced mallwear twice a year… Remember when Tommy Hilfiger actually showed bespoke suits and tailored gowns for one hot second, only to quickly came to his senses and revert back to basic outletwear…???

Anyway, my seething loathing for Canada Goose aside, that sort of glittery, sequinned kaleidoscopic pop confectionary disco dancing queen that’s unfortunately become the signature of the Tom Ford brand is so cringe— especially when he named a lipstick “fcukin fabulous”: So Boomer desperate for attention level of secondhand embarrassment. Shame the casual fashion fan doesn’t know.care that at his best, the brand is sly, clever and even cocky—more so when Terry helmed his branding that hinged on naughty, even vulgar decadence. But it’s never beent fun fashion, at least not when the label was supreme. So glad Haider scrubbed the bops off the label’s playlist. And reintroduced a coldness, an iciness, a moneyed Blade Runner android chill, that has always been a strong component of Tom Ford, going back to his Gucci days: His Gucci A/W 2003 remains a masterclass of balancing a chilliness with a vulnerability in disciplined structure and flowing lightness— I can imagine Rachel from Blade Runner wearing all these designs.h

Then moving into his YSL reign, Tom is such a ferocious, mean tailor of that combination of bespoke and deconstruction. His YSL S/S 2004 moves and glides with the sharp ease of liquid mercury. Just unbelievably feminine and authoritative. No one came close.

And his smoulder, sensuality that the best of his namesake label, Tom Ford A/W 2016 is pure soulful luxe, with that hinge of 1970s icy cocaine and champagne Bianca Jagger and Halston cool.

That’s Tom Ford at his best. Haider successfully instilled and distilled this coolness, iciness with a lethal dose of stealthy sensuality for his debut— not to mention he’s being faithful to the label with teh strong tailoring and fit that flatters the human form to the utmost; an effort that’s all but in the minority these days, where ill-fitting forms are insultingly sold as the highest of fashion, when in reality, it’s just so much easier to manufacture and produce shapeless forms. I get that his iciness, and no-nonsense tailoring may be a turnoff for those wanting faSHON, but those traits have always been a reliable trademark of Tom’s, going from Gucci to his own label. And Tom and Haider have always dressed women and men— not girls and boys. Thank goodness.

(I was looking for a Tom Ford winter coat on luisaviaroma— and the model for a Tom Ford coat is a tall, gangly, beanpole, whose arms are too long for the cut, and he can’t fill in the coat. He looked like that silly Nosferatu from 1922. Tom Ford is not designed for every body, and that Haider understands this, is always a good thing.)

Gucci A/W 2003


YSL S/S 2004


Tom Ford A/W 2016

 

[Marc10]

 

[Norden]

his Tom Ford and its launch is very focused and a clear line from the show, in stark contrast with some other launches we’ve seen this year.
Maybe that’s why it feels a bit oversaturated. The total look feels extremely applied on everyone, down to the hair. His next collection needs to loosen up a little to broaden the range. But so far, his work for the house is focused and desirable, i like that he’s introducing small details, like this T on belts etc. Personally, I think this is just the right amount for tom ford.