D la Repubblica October 4 2025
Photographer: Paolo Roversi
Feature editor: Arena Tibaldi


Haider Ackermann sits on the sofa in the center of the living room overlooking the gardens of the Palais Royal in Paris, just meters from Jean Cocteau's residence. The room is bathed in sunlight, and the stands display pieces from Tom Ford's winter collection, his first as creative director of the brand. The show last March marked his full return to fashion after having to put his eponymous brand, which made him famous, on hold in 2020. At the time, the fashion world's mourning was unanimous, as was the enthusiasm with which his return is now being greeted. Ackermann, 54, smiles relaxedly as he sips his coffee. He's cautious, though he tries to hide it. He certainly doesn't appear insecure. "And yet that's how it is. I'm very insecure.”
And what about? You don't know you’re good?
"No. If I knew, I'd stop working. Every day is a struggle to reach the level of excellence I've set for myself: when Jean Paul Gaultier offered me to design a haute couture collection in 2023, I was consumed by anxiety. One night I called my younger sister, explaining that I wasn't up to the task. Her response: 'Stop it, you know it's not true.’ I calmed down."
But did you hesitate when they offered you the job here at Tom Ford?
"Not for a moment. I was in a meeting for a negotiation with another brand: my cell phone rings, I read 'Tom Ford.' We know each other, we respect each other, but I had no idea what he wanted. I barricade myself in the restroom and answer him: he explains that I'm the right person to take charge of his world and that he trusts me. After that, I couldn't hear what he was talking about anymore: while I was telling him I had to think about it, I was already thinking that I would use velvet in the first show. I immediately knew it was the right choice.
You two, though, are very different.
"But we have the same tastes—except for movies, but that's between me and him (laughs, ed.)—and the same values. For me, he's the symbol of power in clothing. But I'm more subtle in conveying the concept, he's more direct. I'm more sensual, he's more sexual. And let's not forget that today women no longer need to express their strength with clothes: they embody it themselves.”
My words: Tom Ford dresses at night, I the morning after.
"But the morning after implies that there was a great night before, right? Mr. Ford's fascination with nightlife is well known: I arrive later. I really like sitting at breakfast in a local café and watching couples: have they just met? Have they had sex? And afterward, did they smoke a cigarette, drink a coffee? What perfume are they wearing? I create stories by watching them walk by. So at my show, I wanted the models to walk down the runway several times: I can't imagine how many times I wanted to ask passersby to go back, to study their style better.”
Besides being objectively talented, Ackermann also possesses another equally valuable quality: his sculpted silhouettes, his sense of color, and his constructions have a power that makes his style highly recognizable. It all stems, as he himself tells, from his childhood: he was born in Bogotá, Colombia, but was adopted a few months later by French parents from Alsace. His father was a cartographer, and because of his work, he spent his early years, until adolescence, in Africa, between Ethiopia, Nigeria, and Chad. "Between my mother, her sisters, and the indigenous women of those places, I spent my childhood immersed in a formidable femininity, strong yet at the same time mysterious. Women in Africa have their bodies hidden by layers of fabric, and I have always been fascinated by how the fabric moves around them.”
Did your fascination with fashion come from there?
"Definitely. My mother remembers when, as a child, I spent hours outside with a cloth in my hand, watching how the wind billowed it. That’s when she and my dad realized that my path would be about fabric and shape.”
You studied fashion at the famous Royal Academy in Antwerp. And you were expelled before graduating.
"It's an anecdote that always works in interviews. They kicked me out, it's true, and they had every reason to. I had come to Belgium to follow a love, that was the best fashion school, so I enrolled. But after Africa, where freedom is everything, I wasn't prepared for the iron discipline there. I didn’t understand why I had to talk to the teachers even if I had nothing to say, or meet their deadlines, if the final result was what mattered. Some teachers wanted me to stay, but it wouldn't have been fair to students who were more obedient than me.”
After the youthful rebellions, Ackermann has focused on what really matters for those who do his job: dressing people. The greatest compliment, he says, is seeing someone wearing one of his pieces. Although, at the March show, what he cared about most was: "Tom and Domenico's reactions." Tom, of course, is Ford. Domenico is De Sole, the American designer's partner since his Gucci days. At the finale, the designer came out on the catwalk, looking for them despite the blinding headlights, and then ran to hug them. They were all very happy. And his celebrity friends, who love wearing his pieces, must have been happy too.
Tilda Swinton and Timothée Chalamet are the embodiment of your style. A few years ago, at one of your shows, Chalamet, Setsuko Klossowska, and Nicki Minaj were in the front row, topless. How did you create these relationships?
"They're all true friends, who in one of the darkest moments of my life gave me a hand, involving me in their projects and allowing me to continue doing what I love.”
Are you referring to when your former partner Anne Chapelle tried to oust you, keeping the brand that bears your name for herself?
"I fought and in the end I won. You know, I was adopted; genetically, I have nothing that ties me to my parents. But the name I bear, and that they gave me, is the symbol of our bond. I couldn't leave it to them.”
Have you said many nos in your career?
"Too few, if anything. At first, it seemed like a blessing that someone wanted to work with me, so I said yes to everyone and everything. So I found myself in the situation we were talking about: it was my friends who made me realize it was an "abusive" relationship. Only then did I free myself.
(The male model has the most freakishly tiny toddler feet I'ver ever seen on a man. Hilarious.)