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The Belgian model covers Buro 24/7’s second print issue.
When Hanne Gaby Odiele first came out as intersex, the reaction was exactly how one would hope — positive, encouraging and started a conversation.
“I’ve had a really great reaction from inside the community from family and as well my parents. Even young doctors that are actually learning about this right now [have approached me], it’s cool. It’s been lovely to hear the reaction from many different fields,” Odiele tells Vogue over the phone from New York.
Appearing on the cover of Buro 24/7’s second issue, Odiele takes on the role of hyped-up gender personalities in the spread photographed by Jason Kibbler, proving not only her chameleon prowess as a model, but simultaneously breaking down misconceptions on sex and gender while she’s at it.
“It was so fun shooting the cover, it was good. I really like how the shoot was all about sex and gender, and the hair and make-up was so cool.”
Inside the issue, Odiele discusses coming out as intersex and how it’s changed her outlook on life, saying even something as simple as fashion week has changed for her.
“Before it felt a little more self-serving but now there’s more purpose behind it,” she says in the feature.
When it comes to diversity in the modelling industry, Odiele tells Vogue she does believe the outlook has changed, and with it priorities shifted.
“I think the past two to three years have been a change and have inspired people to develop a personality too, and I think it’s been mostly positive right now.”
“I embrace individuality and whatever people like and sexuality, and sex, gender or race. Everybody should appreciate what they have been given and be yourself.”
Sage words indeed.
buro247One of the reasons Hanne Gaby Odiele has continued to be one of the most successful high-fashion models of the last decade is her ability to convey both strength and vulnerability. On the set of her Buro 24/7 shoot in New York she captured myriad different personas, from oozing boyish sensitivity in Prada - "that look made me feel like a young Leonardo DiCaprio. I loved it!" she laughs - to capturing the pinnacle of Helmut Newton-esque feminine fortitude in Céline leather pants and suspenders.
Over coffee at a Brooklyn café the day after the shoot, Odiele sits relaxed in a spacious corner booth. With no cameras and a face clean of make-up, she's able to reveal her most comfortable persona: herself. "I'm finally living my truth," she says, the morning sunlight illuminating her pale blue eyes. She's referring to letting the world know earlier this year that she's intersex, a variation in sex anatomy at birth that affects 1.7 per cent of the population, yet is widely stigmatised.
Odiele was born in Kortrijk, Belgium, where as a child she was discovered to have Androgen Insensitivity Syndrome, meaning she was born with internal testes and no ovaries or uterus. She had hormone replacement therapy at the tender age of 10 and has undergone a number of surgeries. "As a child, it was very difficult. I knew something was a little bit off because I was always at the doctor," she explains. "The examinations were often very private and invasive."
She finally discovered that she was intersex when, as a teenager, she stumbled upon a magazine article. "When I found out what was going on, it was such a relief. It was scary, but at least I knew what was going on and that I wasn't a freak of nature." From the moment she found out, she connected with "an amazing community" and has, over the years, opened up to her close circle, including designer Alexander Wang and her husband, John Swiatek.
As for the decision to tell the whole world, the timing just felt right. "It's not just that I felt ready in my life - it's that with what's happening in the world right now, it felt important to share. Through my story, I can be a voice for a community that has been left in the dark." Odiele has partnered with InterACT, an advocacy group for the rights of intersex youth, and it's helped provide both encouragement and a platform for her message.
Model citizen: Hanne Gaby Odiele
In recent years, there's been increased media coverage and interest in gender-related issues, especially with Caitlyn Jenner's high-profile transition and rise of icons such as Laverne Cox. For Odiele, adding her voice to the increasingly louder conversation is imperative. On the topic of trans rights, she's quick to point out that it isn't the same thing as intersex. "It's actually kind of the complete opposite," she says, explaining that trans is a gender issue where someone is born with an assigned sex but has a gender identity that doesn't fit. For intersex people - though they can have gender identity issues too - it's technically a physical issue relating to their actual sex. "What my community proves is that gender is not just anatomical, and I hope my work can open more doors in the trans community as well."
Considering Odiele describes herself as shy, it's truly impressive hearing her speak so candidly on matters both personal and painful. Her heartfelt approach and commitment to advocacy along with InterACT hasn't gone unnoticed. She was recently included in a round of Next Generation Leaders in Time magazine and is scheduled to speak in front of parliament in her home country of Belgium for the government's International Day Against Homophobia and Transphobia.
At the end of the day, the momentum is valuable because it means her message continues to spread. "It's not being intersex that's a problem, it's the surgeries and how we often get treated," she explains, specifying that she's against unnecessary, nonconsensual, and irreversible surgeries. "Usually, you can wait until a child is 18 and can make a decision. Most surgeries are done purely out of fear of non-binary bodies." She admits that doctors scared her own parents into consenting to surgery, and they didn't know the whole full truth about their daughter's situation until she herself found out and told them.
It's only been a few months since Odiele first told her story, and her inbox continues to be flooded with messages from people within the community, as well as parents and doctors. And while she's fully embracing her new role as advocate, she's by no means stepping away from her career as a model. "This past fashion week felt more rewarding than ever, and in general my work feels more rewarding now," she admits. "Before it felt a little more self-serving, and now there's more purpose behind it."
Odiele's revolutionary spirit is nothing new. Her bold, nonconformist attitude and style has been turning heads for years. "I have no boundaries when it comes to fashion," she says. It's true - from oversized menswear to body-skimming frocks, she's a true style chameleon who appears genuinely comfortable in her own skin. It was incredible to see her confidence and strength of character shine across the variety of looks on the set of this shoot.
It's hard not to draw a connection about her intersex identity and her ability to think, dress, and radiate outside the box. "I don't have to conform to any norm or gender or identity," she says proudly, pausing in genuine reflection. "Being intersex has made me the person I am today, and I can honestly say that I am happy and wouldn't want to be any different."
All images shot by Jason Kibbler and styled by Katie Mossman.
She looks lovely in pink.
glamourFor years intersex activism didn’t have a face. In 2013, when my novel Golden Boy, about a sweet teenager, Max, who is struggling to hide his intersexuality from his friends and love interest, came out, public knowledge of the condition was embryonic, even though it affects up to 1.7 percent of the population. (That means it’s as common as being a redhead.)
Intersex readers wrote to me saying how much it meant to see a protagonist who was like them. I emailed back and forth with these kids; most had been suicidal. But they felt less alone just knowing there was a fictional character out there who understood what they were going through. Still, it was fiction: Intersex remained largely invisible on the real-world stage. Young people were scared of coming out; there was no one for them to gather behind, no wider community for them to be a part of.
Then, in January, Belgian supermodel Hanne Gaby Odiele, 29, revealed she's intersex in an interview with USA Today and announced a partnership with InterACT, an advocacy group, taking aim at the genital surgeries performed on intersex children to make them appear either male or female. I knew from my research that these surgeries often result in infertility, additional surgery, hormone therapy, and loss of sexual pleasure. They are performed on children, sometimes shortly after birth, and parents are put under extreme pressure to consent to them, to give their child a “normal” life. In 2015 the United Nations deemed such nonconsensual genital surgeries a human rights violation.
Overnight after Odiele shared her story, the intersex community had a new face, a new “Max,” but this time she was a real person, and she was speaking out for them. I remember thinking how chill and happy she seemed in a video for InterACT. I am a big believer in constructive activism—not raging against the machine but, with positivity and cooperation, building a new one. Odiele wasn’t angry; she wasn’t self-shaming. She talks about intersex in a way that was just another kind of “normal,” and in doing so she is helping others come forward. I caught up with her to see how her life has changed.
GLAMOUR: First, let’s tackle something: People often confuse intersex with trans.
HANNE GABY ODIELE: Intersex is about sex characteristics [such as genitalia], whereas trans is more about gender [identity]. You can be both! I don’t want to speak about differences, though. At the end of the day, we all want to be ourselves and to be loved.
GLAMOUR: Beautifully put. And when did you first start to know you were different?
HGO: Doctors discovered pretty early on that I was intersex, but I only learned when I was 17. I was reading an article in a teen magazine about a girl who’d had surgeries, couldn’t have a period, and I thought, Hmm, that sounds a lot like me. I actually showed it to my doctor, who confirmed it for me: That’s what you are. But I always kind of knew too*—other kids didn’t have to go to the doctor and pull their pants down.
GLAMOUR: And how did your parents talk to you about that?
HGO: They never really got the whole story. The doctors were just like, “Oh, we’re just going to have a surgery, she’s going to have to take medicines, then it’s going to be OK.” They never really explained the whole concept [to my parents]. This was the nineties; it was like, whatever the specialist said, that’s what you’re going to do…. When I found out the full truth, it was a relief. Because I’m intersex, sometimes a doctor would say, “Don’t tell anyone.” So you feel a lot of shame, and you feel very alone. From 17 on, I was able to meet other people like me, and things got a lot better.
GLAMOUR: Did you have to have hormone therapy? And how does that affect you?
HGO: Yes, because of the surgeries. I [was born with] androgen insensitivity syndrome, which means I’m XY chromosome like typical boys but with internal undescended testes; my body looks female. Surgery removed the testes, [but that impacts your] hormones, which affect your mood, your development, your bones. You need hormones, so since age nine I’ve basically been on birth control. For someone who can’t have babies, it’s ironic!
GLAMOUR: Was there an exact moment you felt ready to go public? Were you nervous at all? You seemed really cool and calm!
HGO: I’d just gotten married last year, and then I was reading some stuff online that kids were still going through surgery. That’s just wrong. We’ve ignored this long enough—it’s time that we can talk about this. It’s 2017, why not?
GLAMOUR: There’s been a big wave of activism about being more accepting of people’s sexual identity. Do you think it would have been possible for you to go public even five years ago?
HGO: Personally, I wasn’t there. I was working so much; I was not in the mental space either. It was something that I always wanted to do, but I didn’t want to be overwhelmed. Like, right now I have more—time, everything. I’ve been very lucky. Without my friends, my family, my husband, and their support, I would have not been able to come forward. I was just ready, personally ready.
GLAMOUR: How has your relationship with your husband helped you get to this point?
HGO: He’s a great support for me. He really encouraged me in this coming out. We’ve been together eight years, and he’s known from pretty much the beginning. For him it’s never been an issue. Also, he’s adopted, and the only point I was struggling with a bit was that I can’t naturally have babies. He was like, “We can adopt! I’ve been adopted; I had a great childhood. Maybe one day we can do that.”
GLAMOUR: You’ve been working with InterACT. Have intersex teenagers written to you about your activism?
HGO: Many, many, many. I also know parents who just found out their child is intersex. They were considering surgery, and now they’re like, “Oh, we’ll wait.” That’s one of the best reactions.
GLAMOUR: And what do you hope for the future for intersex people?
HGO: I want to end the irreversible surgeries on kids who don’t know what’s going on. I don’t want kids to go through the same thing that happened to me. Every day these surgeries still happen. I think by being able to talk freely and openly, more and more intersex people can have their own identity and won’t have to hide their struggles. Being intersex is actually really wonderful. I feel very happy. Sharing my story has made me stronger. Right now I’m stronger than ever.
Nice surprise to see her at Miu Miu! It has been a while