Hedi Slimane - Designer

[fashionista-ta]

^ Sounds like a lot of surplus. I have seen his Celine on Yoox but don't look too often. Maybe it's more than they can take It's nice that the former designer's work lives on for quite awhile on Yoox ...

 

[Aurimas]

How much meaningless confusion and ocean of negative energy was created with this appointment. He really should have focused on quality rather than on quantity. By that I mean he should have dropped designing womenswear and dug deep in menswear. It is hard to show off talent when focusing on too many things.

 

[SpeedRacer666]

is Hedi still in total control? the recent influx of logo-mania, use of influencers, and streetwear aesthetics has me thinking otherwise considering he's spoken against these things.

 

[Lola701]

is Hedi still in total control? the recent influx of logo-mania, use of influencers, and streetwear aesthetics has me thinking otherwise considering he's spoken against these things.

He did it at YSL too.
He is an opportunistic designer and every good creative director knows how to respond to the market.
Céline has grown organically for 10 years. Doing such a drastic change with such an underwhelming response require some sort of adjustment in order to drive sells.

And that legend of creative directors with no control is totally false. You don’t hire a Hedi Slimane, a Nicolas Ghesquiere or even a JW Anderson without total creative control.

The only type of involvement suits can have in that setting is maybe through suggestions. But they are more subtle than what people think...

And tbh, Hedi is seen as a demi-god by the Arnault and Toledano.

 

[Mrs.T]

When I saw that here's a new post I was hoping to read that he quit.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Personally I feel that would just be the start of a different tragedy, the reality is that there aren't many Pheobes around and I fear they would just go for another Mathew Williams.

 

[vetements]

I personally root for Hedi and am curious to hear how are the sales of Celine performing now in the last year, is the sleek marketing helping in any way?

 

[Kimihiro]

I personally root for Hedi and am curious to hear how are the sales of Celine performing now in the last year, is the sleek marketing helping in any way?

LVMH’s latest financial report suggests that sales are picking up due to the Asian market, particularly with womenswear. I could imagine lukewarm reception from Europe and America. Asia (especially East Asia) is more receptive and can already relate to Hedi’s Celine proposition. They’re also a core Hedi market since Dior Homme. I don’t know what’s going on on the menswear side but SS21 seems to be selling okay as compared to previous seasons.

At this point I’d rather have him stay at Celine, they really can’t afford another reboot, like with Givenchy.

 

[toffie]

I've been wondering why Celine's marketing team does not seem to rely on traditional US and EU Instagram influencers, particularly since Hedi's last collections (which are full of heavily branded products) feel like a perfect match for such channels.

Are they focusing solely on the Asian market? Since the brand only seems to be in the spotlight when worn by K-pop stars.

 

[Lola701]

I've been wondering why Celine's marketing team does not seem to rely on traditional US and EU Instagram influencers, particularly since Hedi's last collections (which are full of heavily branded products) feel like a perfect match for such channels.

Are they focusing solely on the Asian market? Since the brand only seems to be in the spotlight when worn by K-pop stars.

I mean there’s a pandemic right now and the traditional markets are kinda hit hard right now.
Europe and US are mature markets and they are the ones that reacted strongly against the drastic change at Celine...
The dynamic at the start wasn’t strong and the kind of uncertainty in the direction made it harder to warm up to his work.

Focusing on Asia is clever and is also a bet on the future. When Tourism will start again, the buyers in Asia will likely continue to buy Celine in Europe and increase their sales in that region.
Tbh, Hedi’s aesthetic, as sleek and well packaged as it is is not « particular » enough in the luxury market to win over a new clientele. There aren’t a lot of showstopper pieces that has the « must have » appeal. Logo pieces will sell well all over the world but the people who are buying the RTW for example are already familiar with Hedi’s work.
Add to that the competition with YSL, they are very clever to concentrate the efforts in Asia.

 

[Kimihiro]

Tbh, Hedi’s aesthetic, as sleek and well packaged as it is is not « particular » enough in the luxury market to win over a new clientele. There aren’t a lot of showstopper pieces that has the « must have » appeal.

Lola, I’ve been wondering about this for a while. Can his Celine survive without being buoyed by a single hit product once in a while? I’m really not familiar with YSL womenswear but for Dior Homme they made a killing with the jeans and at YSL people were buying his men’s boots. I’m looking for the Celine equivalent of that.

Hedi never had an it bag as far as I can remember and with Celine’s growth prior to reboot being so much associated with bags I wonder if steady but lukewarm RTW + accessories sales can keep them on Arnault’s good graces.

 

[Lola701]

Lola, I’ve been wondering about this for a while. Can his Celine survive without being buoyed by a single hit product once in a while? I’m really not familiar with YSL womenswear but for Dior Homme they made a killing with the jeans and at YSL people were buying his men’s boots. I’m looking for the Celine equivalent of that.

Hedi never had an it bag as far as I can remember and with Celine’s growth prior to reboot being so much associated with bags I wonder if steady but lukewarm RTW + accessories sales can keep them on Arnault’s good graces.

I would lie to you if I tell you that I know of his Celine can survive without that one product or category that will drive the sales...

It’s not like the runway shows are creating a common desire. I enjoyed his second womenswear collection but it was time to buy, suddenly, the desire was not that strong.

I think that ultimately, contrary to what the majority of his fans thinks, a renewal or a refresh of aesthetic was needed on his part. His Celine will always be a less achieved version of everything he did before. The jeans and sneakers were better at Dior Homme, the womenswear was more eye-catching at YSL. The other day I re saw his first introduction YSL campaign with Anja Rubik and it was sleek and desirable.

Maybe the logos are the pieces that will drive the sales. I saw a very chic shirt with the « Sulky » embroidered à la Ralph Lauren. It was chic and a little bit more subtle than the big « CELINE » on entry-level priced items.

The magic of his Dior Homme was that it did appeal to different types of men. When you look at FW2004, it does not scream rocker!?

Maybe his womenswear should be more ok the vain of his menswear: a lot of tailoring. I don’t know a lot of women who wears prairie dresses on a daily basis...

The irony is that the perfume line (as I’ve always said) is the most achieved and maybe honest part of his Celine. The 16 bag is good but it’s not a status symbol. A bag had to be cool first before becoming a classic...

Maybe it’s also time for him to expose himself slightly more. He is doing « service minimum » now...

 

[THD96]

I'm more interesting about Hedi career after Celine tbh. He can't obviously go back to Keeping. I wonder will his relationship with Arnault will affect by the lukewarm result of his tenure. What LVMH brands can they can give him now? Dior is already secured for Kim Jones. Maybe LV but idk if Bernard will give his crown jewel for Hedi. What brands can afford him and allow him to turn the brand 160°. Hermes & Chanel maybe. But the last thing the Paris fashion need is these types of clothes with the Chanel pricetags.

 

[Kimihiro]

His Celine will always be a less achieved version of everything he did before. The jeans and sneakers were better at Dior Homme, the womenswear was more eye-catching at YSL. The other day I re saw his first introduction YSL campaign with Anja Rubik and it was sleek and desirable.

Honestly it’s my big problem with his Celine, it’s dry and not desirable. It lacks, for the lack of a better word, the sex appeal that both his Dior Homme and YSL exuded. It’s all too stuffy.

What brands can afford him and allow him to turn the brand 160°. Hermes & Chanel maybe. But the last thing the Paris fashion need is these types of clothes with the Chanel pricetags.

Lately I was thinking that he would be perfect for Armani, if only those diffusion lines don’t exists because I’m pretty sure he abhors them. At least with that label he could afford to take it slow and repeat things. Even then, he really needs to go beyond rock and roll. It’s not going to work for bigger houses which probably he’s gunning. Pretty sure he wants that Chanel job.

 

[bc collector]

Pretty sure he wants that Chanel job.

Pretty sure the Wertheimers are giving him the middle finger.

 

[Lola701]

I'm more interesting about Hedi career after Celine tbh. He can't obviously go back to Keeping. I wonder will his relationship with Arnault will affect by the lukewarm result of his tenure. What LVMH brands can they can give him now? Dior is already secured for Kim Jones. Maybe LV but idk if Bernard will give his crown jewel for Hedi. What brands can afford him and allow him to turn the brand 160°. Hermes & Chanel maybe. But the last thing the Paris fashion need is these types of clothes with the Chanel pricetags.

He will probably go back to photography. Bernard Arnault and Sydney Toledano are the only people in fashion who loves him enough to give total control over one of their brand.

Even if he wants Chanel. He will never have that level of control. Karl, with all his Power never succeed in having control of all Chanel. The same for Hermès.

And tbh, like @bc collector said, I’m sure at Rue Cambon (and Faubourg Saint Honore), nobody is checking for him.

Unlike Bernard Arnault and Francois Pinault, the Weirthemers and Dumas inherited from those fashion houses. Nobody wants to have Hedi come and destroy everything...

 

[bc collector]

^^^Further to the above:
I'm sure Hedi at some point must have dreamt about Le grand coup, that of putting his fingers on the sacred Trimurti of French couture, but, alas, I'm afraid his momentum has passed for good.
Even supposing Karl put a good word for him, his lukewarm stint at Celine has put a nail on the coffin of his ambitions.
And, let's face it, Chanel has a serious and diverse customer base in RTW, most of them have no taste for dressing like cheap tarts: they would probably throw his stupid, sequined logo tees back at his face.

And, last but not least, Chanel is a couture house at heart and they have (supposedly demanding) clients for that too: judging from what Hedi did at the pompously resuscitated SL couture salon, his technical skills are a tad poor to be up for the task.

 

[Lola701]

And, let's face it, Chanel has a serious and diverse customer base in RTW, most of them have no taste for dressing like cheap tarts: they would probably throw his stupid, sequined logo tees back at his face.

And, last but not least, Chanel is a couture house at heart and they have (supposedly demanding) clients for that too: judging from what Hedi did at the pompously resuscitated SL couture salon, his technical skills are a tad poor to be up for the task.

Who says diverse also says tackiness. I’ve seen women at shows wear more visually offensive pieces than those logos tees. Ok, sometimes it was fun to see a commitment to runway looks but seeing grown women in plastic boots and coats was tacky, ridiculous and quite stupid...Even done by my beloved Karl.

Hedi’s contribution to logomania is not huge. It’s disappointing but he hasn’t decided to give us something that would be desirable for a large audience.

I’m still waiting for him to give us something à la Dior Homme FW2006. Timeless and chic.

I’m actually a Hedi fan but I’ve lost faith in him the moment he joined YSL and started to do womenswear. For someone so revered in the industry, I didn’t expected from him to get Frida Giannini...

 

[bc collector]

Who says diverse also says tackiness

By diverse, I meant in terms of demographics, mostly. They cater to an older demographic who is less easily fooled by Hedi's tricks, me thinks

Hedi’s contribution to logomania is not huge

It's not just the logoed stuff, it's the whole "design" approach that smacks of marketing department from miles away. I used to love his work at Dior Homme too, but, whether for cynicism or realism, I think Hedi, like many designers nowadays, knows that that kind of product that you call chic and timeless won't take you very far in terms of sales. And he preferred to go the easy way and feed the masses what they want instead of trying to elevate their taste.

Not everybody can have Rick's or Phoebe's integrity...

 

[THD96]

And, let's face it, Chanel has a serious and diverse customer base in RTW, most of them have no taste for dressing like cheap tarts: they would probably throw his stupid, sequined logo tees back at his face.

And, last but not least, Chanel is a couture house at heart and they have (supposedly demanding) clients for that too: judging from what Hedi did at the pompously resuscitated SL couture salon, his technical skills are a tad poor to be up for the task

The thing is if you look at Karl entire tenure at Chanel he always challenge the taste of his clients. When I look through the Chanel Catwalk book, his rtw collections in the 80s & 90s are full of banal things (surfboards, grandma undies, boxing, etc...) But he always manage to make them look desirable (through casting, presentation). I mean he make people buy a milk bottle & shopping cart bag. Phoebe Céline at the core is business attire, but she make it luxurious and sexy, and her sense of humor is on another level (dare I say Karl level). That's why in a sea of Phoebe devotee brands no one is even come close to the original.

Idk what happen with Hedi, but he lost that touch that make his Dior Homme desirable. His
SL tenure almost didn't work for me, maybe because I'm not aspire to his obsession with California. The only collection I like from him at SL is his last one Fall 2016, which set the template for AV whole tenure at SL.

His Celine is like Alt at VP visually nice but I'm just bored by all the cliché. He want to capture the zeitgeist with all the logo items but present them with a total look, it's just doesn't feel like the youth of today.