Hedi Slimane - Designer

[jeanclaude]

For me Slimane is like Apple: coming from a glorious and revolutionary past, now all they sell you is the same dated and repetitive stuff...but with some little tiny changes.

 

[HigthaVandah]

More evidence Hedi is leaving 16 Rue Vivienne... but this time there's a nuance.

From the men's 'new collection ' tab on the Celine site.

 

[louis]

It’s already hard to see Slimane in 16 Rue Vivienne Paris since he moved years ago his office and creative team in Ramatuelle, Côte d’Azur.
Anyway that t-shirt alone doesn’t seem to indicate an imminent departure as Hedi is still negotiating his contract with CELINE.

 

[yslforever]

To be blunt, their latest menswear drop is so basic and seen a million times already... not basic as that Gucci by Gap they are naming Ancora, but still... I browsed it and said goodbye to my SA.

 

[HigthaVandah]

It’s already hard to see Slimane in 16 Rue Vivienne Paris since he moved years ago his office and creative team in Ramatuelle, Côte d’Azur.
Anyway that t-shirt alone doesn’t seem to indicate an imminent departure as Hedi is still negotiating his contract with CELINE.

I was mostly joking. The idea of rebranding as
C E L I N Е
Los Angeles
struck me as hilarious but somehow not 100% impossible. In any case, the Vivienne address is still a corporate office, isn't it?

 

[LostInNJ]

To be blunt, their latest menswear drop is so basic and seen a million times already... not basic as that Gucci by Gap they are naming Ancora, but still... I browsed it and said goodbye to my SA.

It's one drop in a series of drops. Surely, we can't expect every single piece in a drop to be "out of this world."

I suppose it is also the state of fashion these days. Logo tees and hoodies are what sell in high volumes, and being owned by a conglomerate is only going to force a brand to have that merchandise as to not alienate where a lot of money is being spent. Can you really blame a designer for "allowing" these pieces to be put out under their name when the control is to a point, beyond them?

At the same time, I do genuinely wonder what else people are expecting from Hedi's Celine after all the claims of it being formulaic and one note. He does what he does and that is kind of it. Still expecting some kind of groundbreaking moment from him, at this point (while it would be welcome, I'm sure) is a bit silly.

 

[louis]

I do love the tote denim bag in dark blue wash: it’s on my wish list😉

 

[yslforever]

It's one drop in a series of drops. Surely, we can't expect every single piece in a drop to be "out of this world."

I suppose it is also the state of fashion these days. Logo tees and hoodies are what sell in high volumes, and being owned by a conglomerate is only going to force a brand to have that merchandise as to not alienate where a lot of money is being spent. Can you really blame a designer for "allowing" these pieces to be put out under their name when the control is to a point, beyond them?

At the same time, I do genuinely wonder what else people are expecting from Hedi's Celine after all the claims of it being formulaic and one note. He does what he does and that is kind of it. Still expecting some kind of groundbreaking moment from him, at this point (while it would be welcome, I'm sure) is a bit silly.

I

It's one drop in a series of drops. Surely, we can't expect every single piece in a drop to be "out of this world."

I suppose it is also the state of fashion these days. Logo tees and hoodies are what sell in high volumes, and being owned by a conglomerate is only going to force a brand to have that merchandise as to not alienate where a lot of money is being spent. Can you really blame a designer for "allowing" these pieces to be put out under their name when the control is to a point, beyond them?

At the same time, I do genuinely wonder what else people are expecting from Hedi's Celine after all the claims of it being formulaic and one note. He does what he does and that is kind of it. Still expecting some kind of groundbreaking moment from him, at this point (while it would be welcome, I'm sure) is a bit silly.

It's their main drop for Fall-Winter, I mean it was announced well in advance by the SAs, but I do get a sense of fatigue among customers like me who I know. Might be anectodal, but we already all have the Hedi classics (from Dior to SLP to Celine) and their endless variations... and we tend to pass on the logo pieces. So there is little remaining for us.

 

[LostInNJ]

I

It's their main drop for Fall-Winter, I mean it was announced well in advance by the SAs, but I do get a sense of fatigue among customers like me who I know. Might be anectodal, but we already all have the Hedi classics (from Dior to SLP to Celine) and their endless variations... and we tend to pass on the logo pieces. So there is little remaining for us.

I understood it as this is one of several drops to come over the next few months...but fair enough...you have those pieces.

Which brings me to another point. At which point is the brand no longer a fit/no longer for you? Perhaps it doesn't speak to you because they got what they needed from you, if that makes sense. Fashion is so watered down now, so the updated logo tee and hoodie is maybe enough for some customers. A new sneaker, a new logo tote in a different color way - that's enough to make some return.

Speaking to conglomerates again, I don't think the industry/business models are setup anymore for brands to truly experiment and "break new ground" as they once did. Creativity is stifled and once a formula of sorts is found to work, that is what remains (Celine, Dior, Saint Laurent for that matter). Gucci had a formula with Alessandro until it ran out of steam and they changed course which was a gamble and now look at the numbers.

For those, like myself (and yourself, I gather), that shy away from that kind of thing, once the classics have been snapped up, you aren't buying as frequently as you used to. Which, in a way, equates to buying better but less? A new customer can build out a wardrobe and start to fill their closets with said classics.

If nothing else, I just look at it as my wallet and bank account are safe for another season lol.

 

[Lola701]

Can you really blame a designer for "allowing" these pieces to be put out under their name when the control is to a point, beyond them?

This is not something that I would apply to Hedi Slimane. To any other CD around maybe but Mr Slimane’s level of control allow people to blame him because he is involved in every part of everything that can be related to him. I’m even sure he choose the Japanese factories that produces the jeans…

 

[PPPT]

I sometimes wonder about Hedi actual design capabilities. A few years ago, many brands attempted to create their own Monogram Canvas, thinking it would be a timeless bestseller. However, most failed – Givenchy, Loewe, Saint Laurent, Burberry – they hardly sell any now.

I know Hedi adapted an existing design, but Givenchy and YSL also had their own monograms and simply reworked them. Yet, they didn’t succeed. But the Triomphe Canvas from Celine has been a success, continuing to be produced and potentially becoming a classic like LV Monogram. If selling Monogram Canvas were easy, all brands would have succeeded. What makes Hedi approach different?

 

[louis]

This is not something that I would apply to Hedi Slimane. To any other CD around maybe but Mr Slimane’s level of control allow people to blame him because he is involved in every part of everything that can be related to him. I’m even sure he choose the Japanese factories that produces the jeans…

You are right Lola: Hedi decides every single aspect not only creative wise including those logo hoodie; I personally own two and I happen to really enjoy them.
Is there something that caught your eye in this first drop? What do you think of the tote bag in denim? I love it…😎

 

[Lola701]

I sometimes wonder about Hedi actual design capabilities. A few years ago, many brands attempted to create their own Monogram Canvas, thinking it would be a timeless bestseller. However, most failed – Givenchy, Loewe, Saint Laurent, Burberry – they hardly sell any now.

I know Hedi adapted an existing design, but Givenchy and YSL also had their own monograms and simply reworked them. Yet, they didn’t succeed. But the Triomphe Canvas from Celine has been a success, continuing to be produced and potentially becoming a classic like LV Monogram. If selling Monogram Canvas were easy, all brands would have succeeded. What makes Hedi approach different?

He tried the logo thing with YSL and it failed much like his first bag that looked like keepall. What took off at YSL were the leather bags and particularly the De Jour bag…
I think it has to make sense with the brand, with his heritage because when you are talking monogram, you are going against renowned leather goods houses that have an heritage monogram.

Phoebe had a monogram line with the triomphe in the early seasons. I actually liked her shade of monogram more. But it didn’t took off, her leather bags did.

It’s also a reflection of the times. Celine feels fresher than a GG or a Vuitton one. Balmain has an interesting monogram but the designs aren’t classy enough and the brand image not classic enough to carry that.

You are right Lola: Hedi decides every single aspect not only creative wise including those logo hoodie; I personally own two and I happen to really enjoy them.
Is there something that caught your eye in this first drop? What do you think of the tote bag in denim? I love it…😎

As much as I’m interested in Hedi’s work, buying it is a different thing for me. I’m passed that time of my life when I’m looking for basics de luxe. I love the riding hats and I may buy one as I don’t own anything Celine womenswear by Hedi. I bought a menswear look that I got tailored. If it’s indeed his last season, I may buy a Héloïse or Romy bag.

In reality, the collection I’m waiting for is still Vuitton by Nicolas.

 

[louis]

Angelina Jolie was snapped recently with a Heloise bag, that’s a good choice….

 

[yslforever]

I understood it as this is one of several drops to come over the next few months...but fair enough...you have those pieces.

Which brings me to another point. At which point is the brand no longer a fit/no longer for you? Perhaps it doesn't speak to you because they got what they needed from you, if that makes sense. Fashion is so watered down now, so the updated logo tee and hoodie is maybe enough for some customers. A new sneaker, a new logo tote in a different color way - that's enough to make some return.

Speaking to conglomerates again, I don't think the industry/business models are setup anymore for brands to truly experiment and "break new ground" as they once did. Creativity is stifled and once a formula of sorts is found to work, that is what remains (Celine, Dior, Saint Laurent for that matter). Gucci had a formula with Alessandro until it ran out of steam and they changed course which was a gamble and now look at the numbers.

For those, like myself (and yourself, I gather), that shy away from that kind of thing, once the classics have been snapped up, you aren't buying as frequently as you used to. Which, in a way, equates to buying better but less? A new customer can build out a wardrobe and start to fill their closets with said classics.

If nothing else, I just look at it as my wallet and bank account are safe for another season lol.

Indeed, I am classical in the classicism meaning, I have my fair share of perfectly tailored Hedi-isms but I am always open to new vibes, silhouettes and runway pieces, it's perfectly fine he continues to offer his quintessentially Hedi-isms but he should also propose new directions for those who have it all (I consider myself privileged in that matter) or those who do not fully adhere to his style . And no, logoed Ts, hoodies, and bombers are not a fashion direction, and no, another iteration of a black sequined suit is not enough.
Even Vacarrello, who is not the most innovative, offer newish directions for menswear seasons after seasons. I have grown accostumed to his larger longer sihouettes for FW Yves look-a-likes and I am waiting to try them. I cannot say the same for Hedi's menswear.
I hurts for me to say it but even Pharrell has interesting designs now.

In term of accessories too, it's more misses than hits, especially in the mens shoe sections. They are extremely underwhelming.
The only redeeming bags imho are the Romys, for mens.

 

[PDFSD]

I sometimes wonder about Hedi actual design capabilities. A few years ago, many brands attempted to create their own Monogram Canvas, thinking it would be a timeless bestseller. However, most failed – Givenchy, Loewe, Saint Laurent, Burberry – they hardly sell any now.

I know Hedi adapted an existing design, but Givenchy and YSL also had their own monograms and simply reworked them. Yet, they didn’t succeed. But the Triomphe Canvas from Celine has been a success, continuing to be produced and potentially becoming a classic like LV Monogram. If selling Monogram Canvas were easy, all brands would have succeeded. What makes Hedi approach different?

i think the celine monogram worked because :

- his pressistance in having many bags with it for seasons and part of the offer till it clicked via ambassadors like Lisa with wider audiences
- world building with creating the RTW and lifestyle looks around it, it's part of the total look you can buy into.
- the designs are clear versions style bags you find everywhere but done well enough to feel modern yet classic & easy.
- the C´s in the monogram and use as hardware or leather/printed logo its like the perfect mix of Chanel CC and LV monogram cosplay but less old fashion.

I do think after or when he leaves Celine the monogram series won't survive and be like selling LV´s monogram in eternity.
Even under Hedi it looks borderline fake and cheap but with his precise vision and execution of Celine´s image, it helps to keep it somewhat acceptable and cosplay heritage in a fun way.

 

[HigthaVandah]

But the Triomphe Canvas from Celine has been a success. What makes Hedi approach different?

As far as logos go, an abstract one that references something besides the the brand's name is refreshing. And Triomphe is a nice looking crest. If it was just a random shape he came up with for the buckle of a single belt, I would love it. I suppose I do quite like it as an image anyway. But not as much as I dislike wearing logos.

I do wonder if the idea of Hedi pulling something from the archives and putting it front and center after a few tweaks helped in a small way to counter some of the public outcry against his rebranding.
(Of course, the accentless name is also pulled from the archives with a few tweaks, but that got lost in the commotion of hot takes.)

with his precise vision and execution of Celine´s image, it helps to keep it somewhat acceptable and cosplay heritage in a fun way.

Isn't that what pop psychology calls 'manifesting'? Lol. Hedi/corporate decide the triomphe logo and bag are classics, and just persist in acting like they are until it becomes true?

The secret to manifesting must be LVMH investment and advertising money.

 

[LostInNJ]

This is not something that I would apply to Hedi Slimane. To any other CD around maybe but Mr Slimane’s level of control allow people to blame him because he is involved in every part of everything that can be related to him. I’m even sure he choose the Japanese factories that produces the jeans…

I'm not saying he doesn't like that particular product, but the reality is that it sells and he has a job and part of that job is to make money. Of course he is still approving the graphics and the fit of these items, but at the end of the day, it is a big part of the business.

Even with the bags that were still being sold that were part of Phoebe's era (not sure if those are still available today, if someone knows?). They weren't his designs, but they did well and contributed greatly to the bottom line.

 

[visvim2001]

I find it hard to believe that Hedi would put out crap like that. Maybe it’s one of the Arnault clan calling the shots, maybe it’s not. Then again, it was undeniably Hedi who thought putting CELINE in all caps on the back of a rider’s jacket was a good idea. Like much of LVMH, this brand has been busy inaugurating a new vulgarian era, which is why I don’t covet anything from them. There is still quite a brisk trade in the SLP secondhand market, I might visit one of them bougie op-shops in Tokyo soon.

 

[Overindulgence]

Perhaps this is all old news by now but I was going through the new issue of W Magazine and the ad order of the first few pages went: 1. Chanel, 2. Polo Ralph Lauren, and 3. Celine. I just thought it was funny and noteworthy, considering the rumor milll recently and also I rarely see Polo Ralph Lauren ads in the more high end fashion mags especially, as the second ad. Kudos to the Polo Ralph Lauren ad team who got it placed there in light of all of the rumors! Lol.