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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by dodencebt, Jan 21, 2018.
I enjoyed reading that interview actually.
Hedi’s interviews always makes me roll my eyes. Sometimes I feel like all his interviews are made through e-mails...
I find it funny that he continues to refer to Celine as a Couture house and talk about heritage when the Heritage of Celine is actually being a RTW bourgeois fashion house to the core...
And he refer himself as a Couturier when in fact he is stylist... He started doing womenswear 8 years ago. And working with the best ateliers doesn’t make you a Couturier.
He is bit like Pierre Bergé who completely rewrote fashion history to fit his narrative (The infamous « YSL invented RTW »)!
When you read the interviews and the actual clothes attached to it, you kinda feel a bit weird but it’s a good one tho.
And I’ve smelled some of his perfumes for Celine and they were great!
I completely agree.
When she left, it was crucial that they replaced her with someone who would not carry on her vocabulary.
Why? Well...look at the industry over the last 10 years from she started at Céline. She inspired a thousand copycat brands and also got every other working designer in the habit of pitifully following her around, picking up her crumbs. We know what a Philophile designer’s work looks like - utterly soulless. Only Phoebe could imbue the look she created with soul and with spirit, everyone else could only mimic the superficial aspects of her vision - the arty, oddball accessories, the long, slender silhouette, dangling flaps and straps, etc.
So, if Céline had carried on with Phoebe’s look with a new designer...it would have ended up being Proenza Schouler 2.0, basically.
Hedi was the right choice.
And crippled with insecurities, I just had to smile at the 'guess what, you actually did me a favor by hating the first collection!'.. and don't get me started on the '.. the multiple concerts I attend'.. or the 'youth' he photographs as he pathetically lusts after every industry household in LA where a teenager lives and puts together parties with models of his choice to make them pass as this 'surreal-looking party I just walked into and that nobody knows about and wow, I get to document this time in history!'..
If there's one thing he may have pioneered, that's using whatever degree of celebrity and fame you have, ganging up with an egomaniac pop star and the fanaticism of her followers and manipulate it by sending them their way into bullying critics through social media, because he really thinks the work he produces for conglomerates should be above criticism. I actually had respect for his work prior to 2012 but it was through social media that he revealed himself as a highly toxic figure in the fashion world and once his work was inevitably scrutinized, I realized there was little to no substance in it, just a bunch of charlatanry from day one, so the charlatan calls out the usurper, in public? how instagram of you. I don't blame him for resenting social media for someone who rode it wildly, he really can talk about what it's like to be the ultimate bully there, body-shame women (when it's a privilege for you to design for women, not the other way around) and forever changing the way people look at him.. I really can't unsee Donald Trump now (but he really believes he's worlds apart from populism and that's hilarious) and the fact that he's still venerated mostly by men, well, that's very now, he at last captured the zeitgeist that's for sure..
I don’t have words.
word is celine isn't selling and hedi could be out, this + the tiktok show is likely a last ditch effort
The moment I saw this thread went up, I immediately thought about Slimane getting the sack from Céline...and I hope his end is near...!
It’s not selling (compared to the expectations and Phoebe’s era) but I don’t think he’ll be out. Slimane is a favorite of Arnault and Toledano.
They will try their hardest to make it work and maybe go for a more agressive marketing. I’ve heard it’s a decent success in Asia tho.
I don’t necessary see them renew his contract but him being out soon? No! They have invested a lot in Hedi’s vision (the whole visual identity, the stores, the perfume operation, the menswear and I even heard that they have adjusted their manufacturing as Hedi is heavily into denim).
When he is out, Haider would be perfect for the job!
Is his contract up for renewal next year?
When you are Hedi Slimane (or Nicolas Ghesquiere), you normally have a 5 years contract...
So normally, we have 3 years to go. And tbh, he has the crisis to his advantage. The crisis will tone down the growth expectations for the entire industry...
I think to have Lisa from Blackpink as ambassador will definitely help and to have been focused on Tik Tok as well. What lacks to Celine is the cool factor to sell because the products are on par with what the other brands selling so there is no reason they will not have anyone buying it.
I think it comes down to Celine just not having the same sense of desirability and cool as other brands, it always comes across as a little try-hard and second-hand to Saint Laurent or even Balenciaga and Gucci. Which is ironic considering that Saint Laurent is still Hedi 2.
Hedi's vision for Celine is a bit schizophrenic if we just compare the bourgeois 70ies style of his recent women's collections on one hand and his latest TikTok streamed menswear on the other. There is a bit for everyone and perhaps trying to please all these different customers and age demographies seems too much of a stretch.
is anybody really surprised it‘s not selling?
I like his suiting. It’s impeccable. But otherwise it’s so boring. Also these perfumes, he launched so much, and it’s really cool this idea, but the execution is small and insignificant.
His Celine has no energy I think he’s also bored.
I had concerns about Tisci coming to Burberry, and those concerns were correct.
Much like Tisci to Burberry, Slimane does not sensibilities of Celine.
A good designer, but not the right fit for Celine.
I am. LOL. Thing is Hedi has been sold to us as the one with the Midas touch, based on his previous successes. This is a huge flop for him. Even if he does turn things around, which I doubt, many will still remember this stretch where influential stylists such as Carine criticised his aesthetic. What made her critique worse is that she's someone actually styling shoots, not a critic. He can dismiss the critics as bitter, SJW, not educated enough, etc, but for someone like Carine to call his collections 'too patrician'? Coming from type of stylist who can be bought at the right price? LOL.
Personally, I think what's wrong with Celine is his aesthetic and the fact that it's completely at odds with the customer. His mistake was being so arrogant to assume that he could merely replicate the same SLP codes at Celine and that it would be a hit. Sadly for him, Anthony copied his tenure almost immediately at SL and made it look fresher and more sought after, and packaged it in far more interesting ways. I can see an entire generation of uninformed shoppers thinking that Anthony's aesthetic is classically SL when it's really more Hedi. And that's part of what is hurting Celine. What an odd state of affairs. LOL.
Is there a source where Carine critized hedis work? I’m curious to read
Celine sales increased in Q3
This is pretty gorgeous - i'd put a pair of buckle boots with these:
With something like: