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While I'm not thrilled with how Slimane is definitively stamping his own imprint on the House, I am looking forward to the rivalry between Raf Simons at Dior and Slimane at YSL which could yield rather exciting collections in Paris, almost like the KL and YSL rivalry revisited!
It would also be quite juicy and rather fun!
Regarding the new logotype, the use of Helvetica bold is![]()
It's a beautiful font but it is also the brainless, go-to for any graphic designer looking for an easy way to achieve "modern, clean, simple".
From a design perspective, I think it is a bit of a sin to replace the masterpiece that is A.M. Cassandre's YSL logo with this tumblr-esque one.
It's so true. Honestly very little of what he's done so far is all that different from what plenty of new creative directors do. Tags get changed, shopping bags are redesigned, stores are completely remodeled, locations change, staffs change, logos are altered...Everything is being so over-analyzed since Hedi went to YSL. Although, he isn't helping the matter with all the gimmicky changes and PR releases.
uh? the original logo is the perfect trademark for the house
I still think that all of this change, though jarring for some, is the smartest thing that Hedi could possibly do. It closes a chapter, ends an era and distances YSL the brand from YSL the man enough that people can stop treating them as one entity, which makes it that much easier for Slimane to do his own thing. Honestly were it not for the fact that Saint Laurent was still alive at the time, I wouldn't be surprised if Ford had done the same thing himself. It just makes sense when you're dealing with such an immense legacy and iconic creator that, while it should be respected, shouldn't be a burden.
If there is one general consistency in the ever-changing world of fashion, its the names of top houses. Its not just a personal stamp of a designer, its one consistency which helps build a perception of legacy with the public, the fashion press & otherwise.
When you are talking about one of the most brilliant & influential designers of the 20th century such as Yves Saint Laurent, changing the name of his house--whether or not its after he dies--is frankly a stake through the heart of that legacy. As has been mentioned by other people here.
vogue.ukHedi Responds
HEDI SLIMANE has hit back at criticism over his decision to rebrand Yves Saint Laurent, changing the name to Saint Laurent Paris - the same nomenclature that the label's eponymous founder used when he first set up the brand in 1966.
"It is interesting to see how much reaction this retro branding has created," Slimane told Vanity Fair. "Clearly, this period of the history of the house was not well-known, which I trust was a surprise for Pierre Bergé [Saint Laurent's long-term partner]. I went back to 1966 - just before the events of 1968 [when 11 million workers revolted against the conservative politics of then-President Charles de Gaulle - the biggest general strike in history], but the awakening of youth was in the air, and Yves Saint Laurent wanted to dissociate himself from the clientele of haute couture and embrace this new generation."
The iconic French fashion house unveiled its new logo on its Facebook page last month, incurring backlash from fans - with some labeling it "boring and genuinely disappointing". Slimane will present his first show for the label this autumn during Paris Fashion Week.
Coco Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin and Christian Dior were all LONG dead before Lagerfeld, Elbaz or Galliano came on board. None of them were faced with the potential problem of either a living designer or said designer's very vocal business and life partner having any opinion on their work. Each of Saint Laurent's successors has had that very issue staring them in the face while heading a house that, more than Chanel, Dior or Lanvin, is so strongly revered, so protected, to the point that people take news regarding how the house identifies itself and spin it into some opera-level tragedy. Sure, the melodrama is perfectly fitting given the nature of this house's founder, but it's taken to an extreme.I simply can't agree in reference to one part of "all of this change": the name change to "Saint Laurent Paris".
The first time I saw that, I went "no!". Then "no no!". Then "no no no!". Then I slapped myself.
If there is one general consistency in the ever-changing world of fashion, its the names of top houses. Its not just a personal stamp of a designer, its one consistency which helps build a perception of legacy with the public, the fashion press & otherwise.
When you are talking about one of the most brilliant & influential designers of the 20th century such as Yves Saint Laurent, changing the name of his house--whether or not its after he dies--is frankly a stake through the heart of that legacy. As has been mentioned by other people here.
None of what you mention in regards to possibly "distancing the brand from the original designer" seems to have much of a burden on Uncle Karl at Chanel, Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, Galliano when with Dior and so on. Its only a burden if a designer thinks its a burden. Which is apparently what has happened here.
Frankly, the name change makes me ill. I just hope Slimane's designs (couture or otherwise) can eventually compensate.