Hedi Slimane - Designer, Creative Director of Celine

[tricotineacetat]

It's a pity to see someone like Hedi Slimane, who obviously had designed a few stellar collections towards the beginning of his career, water down his aesthetics to such an irrelevant, unfocussed, clichéd offering as this first collection for Saint Laurent. I was expecting a lot more rigor, editing and precision in his work, this falls flat with all the over-accessorisation and obvious vintage re-hashing. A brand like Saint Laurent needs a stronger 'message' and identity that distinguishes itself from other houses' identities, but as had already been pointed out; this look is already beaten to death by all of those designers nurtured under Emmanuelle Alt's eye. What a disappointment from a designer who used to have such a visionary voice of his own!

 

[LostInNJ]

I quite like what I have seen thus far. IMO Hedi was damned from the start, way too many expectations and criticisms before the first look even hit the runway.

This is Hedi's interpretation of YSL and considering his strategy, I think the references in this collection made sense. Also considering that this is the first collection he has sent down the runway, there is much more to come.

At the end of the day, this isn't Stefano Pilati designing for the brand, nor is it Tom Ford. They obviously hired the man for a reason, knowing his past and knowing what his aesthetic is. He loves music, he loves rock and roll, he loves skinny suits, and that isn't going anywhere.

 

[birdofparadise]

It said nothing to me until I saw it move.

Where Mr. Slimane could succeed, in ways the designers since Saint Laurent at Rive Gauche have failed, was in the stiffness, in the awkwardness of the models, in the implicit confession that this ride is not going to be smooth.

This was also apparent in Pilati's last collection for the house, perhaps because the pants were stiff, tight. Can it still be seductive if it's awkward? Could it still be considered sensual? How successful could Belle du Jour possibly have been if she really were just a bourgeois housewife? In the stiffness, in the eagerness of the mind and spirit, failed by the body's lack of know how.

It's this dream of YSL, this idea that one could achieve some kind of magical transformation simply through the clothes, simply by strapping oneself in, the sheerness trailing behind you like smoke, in lurid color combinations not hinted at since Mr. James lost his mind.

Slimane was clever in that he didn't pretend to have all the answers. He's checking her out, stalking her, trying to discover who in their right mind would walk around looking like that in 2012, 2013. And if doing so by way of California gets him close enough to begin to make the necessary changes then so be it.

I flip flopped: there were moments where I couldn't help but think of Patti Smith belting out songs on stage with her arms crossed and then, over to Stevie Nicks, chiffon tornado, these well worn rock goddesses who probably wouldn't be caught dead in Saint Laurent at that time. They didn't need him.

 

[vetements]

I don't get why there is so much hate here, are they from people who love him or hate him?
I personally think most of this collection are a good marriage between the aesthetics of ysl's and his own, (perhaps more rehashing of his own from the dior homme days) I would be shocked if he were to present a collection like opening ceremony's Kenzo...it is probably not trendy per se or offer any new inspirations but if it is style you are after, I think most of these clothes are stylish by themselves...do we really want to see him sending out looks after looks of ruffled dresses, blousons like what many other designers are showing this season? Would that then be deemed 'trendy'?
I also disagree what some people saying this looks more LA than Paris, I can totally imagine a woman in streets of Paris in this, than LA anywhere.
I am no fashion historian and I won't pretend to be one but the looks do have a hinge of YSL in them. Most importantly perhaps, is that these clothes can sell, hype or no hype.

This is the man's first season so I think let's just give him a break.

Ps. I don't think he has the time to personally dictates who gets to sit front row and who doesn't, like what Horyn said in her article about the Le Monde editor...

 

[mistress_f]

I don't get why there is so much hate here, are they from people who love him or hate him?
I personally think most of this collection are a good marriage between the aesthetics of ysl's and his own, (perhaps more rehashing of his own from the dior homme days) I would be shocked if he were to present a collection like opening ceremony's Kenzo...it is probably not trendy per se or offer any new inspirations but if it is style you are after, I think most of these clothes are stylish by themselves...do we really want to see him sending out looks after looks of ruffled dresses, blousons like what many other designers are showing this season? Would that then be deemed 'trendy'?
I also disagree what some people saying this looks more LA than Paris, I can totally imagine a woman in streets of Paris in this, than LA anywhere.
I am no fashion historian and I won't pretend to be one but the looks do have a hinge of YSL in them. Most importantly perhaps, is that these clothes can sell, hype or no hype.

This is the man's first season so I think let's just give him a break.

Ps. I don't think he has the time to personally dictates who gets to sit front row and who doesn't, like what Horyn said in her article about the Le Monde editor...

I've been a huge fan of Hedi over the years. I've never been particularly interested in menswear but i did love his work at dior homme and respect the integrity that he has, the way he build an aesthetic in such a strong way(either you like it or no that's undeniable). I love his work as a photographer (although it's getting stale, just like this rocknroll indie attitude that belongs in 2005), i own now rare publications and genuinely enjoy it. BUT i don't like this, at all. Especially considering how firm he was in wanting to renovate, build a new era, radically change everything... this is not a step forward. This is far beyond modern. I was annoyed by the pr frenzy that led to the show but i was really hoping he'd supripre and wow me. He didn't, not yet.

anyway i have to agree. they have made it more than clear that hedi has full on control on -every- aspect of the brand now, i don't have an hard time believing he made tantrums on who gets to sit front row or doesnt.

 

[Dann]

Ps. I don't think he has the time to personally dictates who gets to sit front row and who doesn't, like what Horyn said in her article about the Le Monde editor...

Hmm... I don't know Hedi, but having worked with a number of designers who would be considered his peers, I'm fairly certain he at least took a look at the front row. Of course one can't be 100% sure. But... Everyone does. Some get more involved than others, but definitely everyone takes a glance at the show seating. If for no other reason than to know where their parents/siblings/friends are.

Edit to add: Someone who is this involved in the "image" of the house--that is, someone who changes the name and logo, who endeavours to create an "atmosphere" for the show, who envisions the show and the brand as more than the clothes walking down the runway on models--will recognize that the front row is an integral element in that process. The decision of including Pierre Bergé and Betty Cattroux (such clear nods to the house founder) reverberates in all the reviews and press that relate to the show. So it's all part of the strategy. If I were a gambling man, I'd say Hedi paid very close attention to where and how the show attendees were seated.

 

[Vitamine W]

Some people seem to forget that he's been outside of fashion for 5 years, that this is his first ever women's collection and presentation for YSL nonetheless.

You have got to be kidding right?

 

[Izreal]

^ nope

 

[Vitamine W]

^I meant that ironically. That is a preposterous excuse for someone who has been closely associated and affiliated with all things fashion the last 5 years from photography to art to magazines to editors and designers.

 

[DANISHBOY]

It's a pity to see someone like Hedi Slimane, who obviously had designed a few stellar collections towards the beginning of his career, water down his aesthetics to such an irrelevant, unfocussed, clichéd offering as this first collection for Saint Laurent. I was expecting a lot more rigor, editing and precision in his work, this falls flat with all the over-accessorisation and obvious vintage re-hashing. A brand like Saint Laurent needs a stronger 'message' and identity that distinguishes itself from other houses' identities, but as had already been pointed out; this look is already beaten to death by all of those designers nurtured under Emmanuelle Alt's eye. What a disappointment from a designer who used to have such a visionary voice of his own!

THIS IS THE BEST COMMENT WRITTEN ON TFS REGARDING THE YSL MEETS HEIDI COLLECTION, SO TRUE EVERY WORD... BUT ITS ALSO VERY SAD THAT WE ALL HAVE TO HAVE THIS SAD DISCUSSION, BECAUSE HEIDI IS / WAS REALLY ONE OF THE BIG ONES, I WAS HOPING THAT HE WOULD DO A HIT LIKE PHOEBE. I REALLY FEEL BAD FOR HIM, THIS WAS NOT HIM ON THE STAGE .....

 

[isa.b.elle.]

i don't know if this is the right thread to post it but this pic was posted an hour ago on hedi's official twitter.... not really classy

source: https://twitter.com/hedislimanetwit

 

[MulletProof]

I just read that- and wish all of the rumors that surfaced about his immature/narcissistic attitude had stayed as rumors only. If I had any respect for his work, it has dropped down to zero today. Besides the insults that just project how low he's willing to go when his 'craft' is criticised by people he feels, don't own enough credentials to, what?, "understand" his art?, it also shows what a gentleman he is, by obviously stretching out her gender and the established expectations (such as being editorial-ready when your job is writing).

I knew the impression on his vapid photography and trendy work at Dior wasn't completely unfounded.

 

[tentalicious]

He needs a large dose of humble and a lot less ego.
What's funny is why do people keep making a big deal of what he says/did, he has been like this his whole career, I am not surprised by anything he says/did anymore.

 

[isa.b.elle.]

He needs a large dose of humble and a lot less ego.
What's funny is why do people keep making a big deal of what he says/did, he has been like this his whole career, I am not surprised by anything he says/did anymore.

agree. honestly for someone who is known for being so private and reticent to speak and do interview, he has definitely lost an opportunity to shut up

 

[thiago:)]

What an awful start... That was completely rude from him. I honestly don't know much about him as a designer (never been interested), only as a photographer.

 

[Vitamine W]

^^^OMG this is promising to be the fashion scandal of the season. Why would anybody go to that depth and show that much insecurity by making vile insults en plein public? Is this for real? Has this been confirmed?

 

[isa.b.elle.]

^it was posted on his official twitter more than an hour ago..so it seems legit

 

[Uemarasan]

Grow up, Hedi.

It's the emperor's new clothes and poor baby is just upset someone saw right through him.

 

[Marc10]

Oh my. I really love Hedi as a designer, as a photographer and I really enjoyed this collection, but that "letter" is beyond childish and embarrassing. Just... shut up.

 

[Spike413]

WOW. Just, wow.

I'm not exactly sure who Slimane thinks he is or what he thinks he's achieved with this or any other collection he's ever designed, but even by fashion standards, even compared to any industry FULL of egos, the response to Horyn seems beyond extreme, almost to the point of caricature but not at all funny in the end. Coupled with the info provided by BoF it paints a very, very negative picture.

And not for anything, it's no wonder Berge loves Slimane like he's his own child. That letter sounds like it could have been written by Pierre.