Helmut Lang, 1988 to 1997

[runner]

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[runner]

more later

 

[runner]

S/ S 1998


there are not many pics here
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[runner]

above pics are paris womens


these below are from NYC mens

firstview

 

[runner]

this season he showed mens in NYC and womens in Paris.
it was his first runway in the U.S.
and he made a tank top/tee with U.S. LANG written on it.
I assume the mens collection got some inspiration from the film Point of No Return/the Assassin, a remake hollywood version of the french film Nikita,
for some reason,
based on some items like "painter jean" and the music used on the runway.
anyway as a whole it might be the simplest collection he ever showed.
it was so simple that there could not be anything that put a vanish on it.
it showed the heart is a magnificent but severely controlled cut.
and also it looked as if he had demanded personal attractions of the wearers in a straightforward way, like if they are not attractive humanly, my ability as a designer is helpless. but if you are, my clothes will have the chemistry and electrify you.
though this is not true of course, I'm not a channeler and he is alive.
the truth is there was a look of dark navy blazer, white shirt, blue jeans, and black oxfords.
it could be just boring on the runway.
but it looked fresh and flawless.
sometimes he was compared to CdG and sometimes to Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, etc, being called purist or minimalist (either of which he didn't want to be called) or decadent, avantgarde, even Gen X (though he doesn't fit the general definition of the term).
but he was also the designer who was able to make that kind of style, the most classic basic one, look coolest.

 

[BerlinRocks]

i-D AUGUST 2008
THE ONLY REALLY INTERESTING IDEAS ARE THOSE WHICH ARE UNFASHIONABLE - HELMUT LANG / text by CHARLIE PORTER
- scanned by berlinrocks -

 

[mishahoi]

Berlin, thanks for the article.

He comes off as quite humble- very unsure of what he`s doing (like a normal person), and its fascinating to read. Lord, I hope he comes back to fashion (I saw a helmut lang boutique in a teen-centered fast-fashion mall here the other day...it hurts to see).

Great interview by Mr. Porter as well

 

[gius]

I wonder what he means by..

I guess one feels sillier to say, "why is it like this about art, why does it do that? It just doesn't make the same sense."

 

[runner]

F/W 1998

internet runway presentation


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firstview

 

[runner]

that's all I intended to include in this thread.
will try to make a hyperlinked index in chronological order later.

 

[BerlinRocks]

^you've done a great work runner through all the thread with the collections.
this last one is very good !!!
i wish one day i'll be able to get some vintage ....

 

[BerlinRocks]

Helmut Takes Hanover With Solo Show

July 1st, 2008 | Hanover
8/29/08: This article has been updated with a preview of images from the show.

As we recently reported, Helmut Lang's legacy still has a strong presence on the runways—and it turns out that his influence is set to extend beyond the realm of fashion. Since his indefinite leave in 2005, Lang has made the transformation from designer to artist, and will be unveiling his first institutional solo exhibition on August 31 as part of Germany's "Hanover Goes Fashion" festival.

Although exhibitions dedicated to fashion designers are now de rigueur, this one won't involve any of the skinny suits and techno fabrics for which Lang became famous. Rather, he has created a number of large-scale installations and sculptures, bringing together various "objects and possibilities" that explore the tension between our private and public lives.

It's a fitting theme for an artist who has devoted so much of his life to fashion—one of the main ways in which a person externalizes their innermost identity and aspirations. "I'm expressing what's important to me with the appropriate form, content and context, through different media and other dimensions," says Lang, who considers his most recent body of work to be a natural progression. If there's anyone who still thinks fashion and art inhabit different planets, Lang's exhibition—combined with the fashion-centric shows taking place simultaneously at nine other Hanover cultural institutions—will probably make it a lot more difficult for them to argue their case.

For more inofrmation: Alles Gleich Schwer, Helmut Lang, will be on view Aug 31 - Nov 2 at the kestnergesellschaft and on www.absolut.com/helmutlang from Sept 30 - Dec 31.

ABSOLUT LAUNCHES FIRST PHASE OF ANTICIPATED HELMUT LANG COLLABORATION WITH OPENING OF “ALLES GLEICH SCHWER” EXHIBITION AT THE RENOWNED KESTNERGESELLSCHAFT IN HANOVER.

This Friday, August 29th 2008, Absolut, the world’s most iconic spirits brand, will support Helmut Lang’s first institutional solo art exhibition, “Alles Gleich Schwer”, with a VIP preview party at the renowned kestnergesellschaft in Hanover, where the exhibition will run until November 2nd.


The exhibition marks the first of two major phases of activity for this new collaboration, part of Absolut’s ongoing Visionaries program “IN AN ABSOLUT WORLD”.


The second phase will see the exhibition move to the virtual world, as Absolut launches an online viral experience of Helmut Lang’s “Alles Gleich Schwer”, allowing the artist’s vision to be accessible to all through ABSOLUT.COM/HELMUTLANG. This, a radical new medium for viewing and experiencing art will be presented exclusively at ABSOLUT.COM/HELMUTLANG from September 30th – December 31st.


“Alles Gleich Schwer” is curated by Frank-Thorsten Moll and Neville Wakefield and marks Helmut Lang’s move away from the physical body’s articulation through clothes. Throughout the institution, new works that explore and develop the social and physical membranes between interior and exterior identities and spaces will be exhibited as well as ”Scéance de Travail 1993–1999”, a retrospective installation originally conceived for “Louise Bourgeois. Jenny Holzer.Helmut Lang” (Kunsthalle Wien,1998).


Drawing on references as diverse as the folkloric rites of maypole ceremonies and the exploration of surrogate skin, Lang has created a series of installations, objects and possibilities that integrate an intimate knowledge of the human form with the personal mythologies and abstract arrangements of the world at large. To present “Alles Gleich Schwer” in a digital environment, ABSOLUT and Helmut Lang will work as a creative partnership to develop a truly innovative interactive platform, in which the art can live beyond physical space and outside geographic restraints.


The exhibition is realized in collaboration with ABSOLUT VODKA. For “IN AN ABSOLUT WORLD, ALLES GLEICH SCHWER,” ABSOLUT and Helmut Lang will create further platforms in addition to a virtual one to showcase the work of art. Helmut Lang has previously worked with ABSOLUT on ABSOLUT LANG (1995) photographed by Helmut Newton.


ABSOLUT.COM/HELMUTLANG will be on view from September 30th – December 31st.


“Alles Gleich Schwer” will be on view at the kestnergesellschaft August 31st – November 2nd. www.kestner.org


For more information, please contact:

Richard Scott, Account Director, Saturday/Relative PR
Tel: +44 20 7749 4510, Email: [email protected]

Karl-Johan Bogefors, Global Director PR & Events, V&S Absolut Spirits
Tel: +46 73 274 65 73, E-mail: [email protected]

JCREPORT
ABSOLUT.COM/HELMUTLANG

 

[BerlinRocks]

Arbor, 2008
Séance de travail, 1993 - 1999 (videoprojection on mirror)
Surrogate skin #3, 2008
Three, 2008
source : JCREPORT