Helmut Lang, 1988 to 1997

[runner]

....

 

[runner]

.....

 

[runner]

catwalking

 

[runner]

firstview

 

[runner]

although all the pics above were from paris, the mens runway for this collection was still in NY. most of the mens looks were styles with a tie.
the last look in #324 is one of my faves from what he did through all his career. the shirt and tie are actually very dark brown. very lang. the coolest use of that color I've ever seen. dark jewel in the night.

 

[tweeds]

curious: does anyone know the provenance of the HL jeans line?
also whether it was seen as a "diffusion" or lower-end line by Lang, or whether he thought of it as a "standards" or basics line (like MMM's Line 14).
finally, when did it cease production?

many questions...

 

[runner]

don't understand what you mean by provenance.
according to the then PR language, helmut lang jeans as "casual line" while helmut lang was as "luxury and comfort".
actually some of the stuff was like a casual version of a match from the main line, in terms of fabrics and constructions.
this is what was written on the ads.
"khakis, chinos, denims, workwear, casualwear, functionals, protectivewear"

I think the actual situation was that they conformed to onward's usual strategy. a second line or lower priced line was (maybe is) one of what you'd start eventually when you become onward's partner.

2000 S/S might have been the last season.
for 2000 F/W pieces, the tag/label was no longer helmut lang jeans for sure although the jeans line continued to be available.

 

[Scott]

^i think he means when it originated. the jeans-line began in 1996. and to answer your other question,i'm not sure about helmut himself but many people did perceive the jeans range as a diffusion as it didn't just contain denim but also many other items. i actually think in naming the line as he did it was more about the spirit that 'jeans' had.....very street,casual,comfort,access....but still always that lang design sensibility.

 

[runner]

ahh alright, then it was first shown in 1996, that is, for S/S 97, the first collection.

 

[tweeds]

thanks runner and Scott !

 

[karen sofie]

Helmut is pure genius, I adore his work

 

[rickowensbride]

I love Helmut. There was a genius quote recently "Alexander Wang.. Isn't that where old Helmut Lang samples go to repopulate?" Does anyone know who said it?!

I made a cool comparison here:
http://layersandswathes.wordpress.com/2010/01/14/alexander-wang-isnt-that-where-old-helmut-lang-samples-go-to-repopulate/

TFS please don't delete this post because it is relevant!

 

[karen sofie]

^

Lang is the master, and he's way ahead of everyone else!

 

[Scott]

interesting correlation and it indeed looks like rehashed lang. pretty bad considering he's being considered so ground breaking.

anyway,i have to say looking at those old images from helmut makes me miss those days a lot. brings back a lot of memories when i was a teenager--my taste just beginning to evolve and just discovering helmut lang,demeulemeester,yohji,rei and MMM.

 

[ettebe]

I love Helmut Lang. I would love to work for the brand later on. HL one of the few places I can see myself working and loving every minute of it.

 

[karen sofie]

I scanned these from i-D dec 1993

 

[rickowensbride]

I think you have a fashion prediction for A/W10 on your hands... i have this seriously strong feeling that either MacGibbon or Philo are going to be playing with those fabrics this season....

 

[Scott]

kirsten owen+helmut lang...priceless memory.

thanks for sharing karen sofie

 

[karen sofie]

You guys are very welcome

 

[karen sofie]

Here they are bigger plus some extra ones from Elle, Vogue and The Face