Thursday, March 24, 2005
Helmut Lang's New York Office to Close
By Courtney Colavita
Helmut Lang
excerpt from wwd...
MILAN — Helmut Lang’s New York office, the creative center of the designer brand for almost a decade, is set to shutter.
WWD has learned that Prada Group plans to close the SoHo space, just two months following Lang’s resignation from the company he founded 19 years ago. A Prada spokesman confirmed the imminent closure, but declined to elaborate further.
It is understood a handful of assistants worked in the design studio with Lang, but packed up their sketches and swatches and left with their boss in January. If that is indeed the case, then it begs the question: Who is designing Helmut Lang?
Since Lang’s departure in January, Prada has been tight-lipped about the future of the brand, which at its pinnacle defined minimalism and made designer denim and white racer-back tanks fashion staples.
One of the defining figures of the Nineties, Vienna-born Lang built his edgy women’s collection around sharp lines and abstract shapes. His contribution to men’s wear was equally cutting-edge, being one of the first designers to put men in skinny, razor-sharp suits.
He moved his business to New York in 1996, at a time when wholesale volume was approaching $100 million.
Prada, in a cost-cutting effort, has sought to reduce overhead where possible by creating synergies between its brands, which include Miu Miu and Jil Sander.
One source close to Prada said keeping Helmut Lang’s New York office open “just didn’t make sense.”