Helmut Lang S/ S 05

[Lena]

its a strong HL collection, i really like this

thanks for the pictures runner and liberty

 

[asta]

wow

i LOVE it

love it



yay!@

 

[AlexN]

Yea! The women's version of the floral pants in the men's show. I love those so much.

And I luuuuuv this collection to death.

 

[Lena]

Helmut Lang: It’s been a dramatic week for Helmut Lang, since he sold the remaining stake in his business to Prada, and took on the title of creative director. But if the collection he showed on Wednesday afternoon is any way to judge, then Lang is feeling upbeat about those changes in a big way. Last season he explored his dark side with a vaguely kinky French-maid motif. This time around, he pondered more wholesome fare, and his moody edge bloomed into something sunny and crisp. And the transition was sensational.

In his artsy way, Mr. Urban — the man with his name riding high above New York City’s taxis — took a strangely preppy detour. And it worked. Smart, tailored jackets and pinstriped pants banded in white at the hem were positively jaunty, while cotton sheath dresses decorated with neat knotted rosettes wouldn’t have looked out of place in Nantucket. Who knew that Lang would ever become the go-to guy for pants printed with a field of prairie flowers?

Still, while he tinkered with the stuff of sweetness, he gave it plenty of city grit. He also sent out enough draped jersey tops and sleek pants to remind everyone just how he got to the top in the first place — by tweaking luxe basics until they turned cool.

In the same lean-and-clean vein, Lang showed some of his most beautiful evening gowns to date in a take on the traditional goddess dressing. In white and in black, his ethereal stunners came gently knotted, draped and slung with pearl halters, or worked into thick twists wound round with strands of beads and pearls. Heavenly.

from wwd

 

[faust]

Originally posted by LibertyRose@Oct 7 2004, 02:10 AM
Well, you'd think there's more than money that matters and I doubt he'd get that much because Prada is heavily in debt and not in a position to get expansive. Just not a rational decision, in terms of business and creativity.

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Actually, it's a very rational decision. Once Prada owned 51% of his company, they in essence owned the whole thing but for less money. They had all the power of making decisions taht required shareholders votes. So it only made sense that Helmut cashed out. Plus, I think he wants to retire, and why not retire richer than before?

On topic, I love this collection, such a step up from the bland F/W 04/05. I hope we see all of this in stores! Love the twisted knots. I always admired Helmut for his ability to create a paradox of exploring minimalism to the creative max - something that, in my opinion, neither Costume National nor Prada nor the reverent Jil Sander have ever achieved.

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by LibertyRose@Oct 7 2004, 02:10 AM
Well, you'd think there's more than money that matters and I doubt he'd get that much because Prada is heavily in debt and not in a position to get expansive. Just not a rational decision, in terms of business and creativity.

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praqda said they valued the company at 60 million dollars...so if he even got half that...

think about it...money means everything when it comes to freedom...jil sander spent 3 years GARDENING whe she left her company...and she could start several more companies or fund some young designers... helmut worked hard to build his business... and now he can leave the business to someone else and focus on his creativity... it's an ideal arrangement...

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by faust@Oct 7 2004, 08:32 AM

On topic, I love this collection, such a step up from the bland F/W 04/05. I hope we see all of this in stores! Love the twisted knots. I always admired Helmut for his ability to create a paradox of exploring minimalism to the creative max - something that, in my opinion, neither Costume National nor Prada nor the reverent Jil Sander have ever achieved.

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perhaps...but the esteemed rei kawakubo has...i have a white knit skirt/dress with twisted knots from cdg...
it really looks like they are from the same collection....

 

[faust]

Originally posted by softgrey@Oct 7 2004, 08:40 AM
perhaps...but the esteemed rei kawakubo has...i have a white knit skirt/dress with twisted knots from cdg...
it really looks like they are from the same collection....

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Bah, those are completely different! Rei's knots were very thick and heavy and were braided, not twisted, and utilized mostly on skirts going towards the bottom, not going around the neck.

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by faust@Oct 7 2004, 08:53 AM
Bah, those are completely different! Rei's knots were very thick and heavy and were braided, not twisted, and utilized mostly on skirts going towards the bottom, not going around the neck.

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no no...not the braids..i have that stuff too...this is actually three twisted knots...
draped in the front of the garment...
if i could only find a pic...

 

[faust]

Originally posted by softgrey@Oct 7 2004, 08:59 AM
no no...not the braids..i have that stuff too...this is actually three twisted knots...
draped in the front of the garment...
if i could only find a pic...

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better yet, wear it next time we meet

 

[Acid]

i couldnt resist saying this

Let's twist again, like we did last summer

 

[macchiom]

A beautiful collection by Helmut. I'm not to keen of all of the menswear shown though.

It’ll be interesting to see if he can keep it up now that he has sold the remainder of the company. But if the interviews are anything to go by, it seems that he’ll be just as attached to the collections in the future.

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by faust@Oct 7 2004, 09:01 AM
better yet, wear it next time we meet

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you'll have to wait till spring...

 

[ignitioned32]

Helmut Lang Spring 2005

Helmut Lang gave quite a lackluster collection on Wednesday, October 6. The looks opening his show gave us his trademarks (i.e. strict, modern, minimal and corporate) and an optimistic look towards the collection because he took the hot for Spring nautical theme and interpreted it without being literal such as the grey striped blazers. Good pieces from the opening segment (and last) also included a loose white top (first look) and cinched-at-the-waist-jackets and knitted marine vests.

Then here comes the part when it becomes tiresome. You had the gross flower print pants which was not a good way to use color (Helmut, think your Spring 2004 collection! Loved that!) and a Balenciaga influence. He also picked up on last season’s mis-matched dresses but did not work for me because there was nothing strong coming out of it as opposed to Spring 2003 and Fall 2004 in which there were animated prints. There was also these knot and draped dresses (some with chains, hello Nic) which I thought was repetitive and weak impacted.

Overall, you might be thinking is this Prada’s fault?

 

[runner]

up

http://www.helmutlang.com/spring.sum.women...thumbnails.html

 

[faust]

Originally posted by ignitioned32@Oct 9 2004, 04:00 AM
Helmut Lang Spring 2005

Helmut Lang gave quite a lackluster collection on Wednesday, October 6. The looks opening his show gave us his trademarks (i.e. strict, modern, minimal and corporate) and an optimistic look towards the collection because he took the hot for Spring nautical theme and interpreted it without being literal such as the grey striped blazers. Good pieces from the opening segment (and last) also included a loose white top (first look) and cinched-at-the-waist-jackets and knitted marine vests.

Then here comes the part when it becomes tiresome. You had the gross flower print pants which was not a good way to use color (Helmut, think your Spring 2004 collection! Loved that!) and a Balenciaga influence. He also picked up on last season’s mis-matched dresses but did not work for me because there was nothing strong coming out of it as opposed to Spring 2003 and Fall 2004 in which there were animated prints. There was also these knot and draped dresses (some with chains, hello Nic) which I thought was repetitive and weak impacted.

Overall, you might be thinking is this Prada’s fault?

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igni, i am just curious, do you right for a magazine? your reviews sound so official

 

[ignitioned32]

Originally posted by faust@Oct 15 2004, 09:34 AM
igni, i am just curious, do you right for a magazine? your reviews sound so official

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Haha, no. Thanks. I write reviews like that when I have alot of free time because I can disect a whole collection carefully.

 

[faust]

Originally posted by ignitioned32@Oct 15 2004, 10:27 AM
Haha, no. Thanks. I write reviews like that when I have alot of free time because I can disect a whole collection carefully.

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aaah, well it's good practice in case you get to write

 

[Kimkhuu]

I like a few outfits. The dresses with knots aren't my thing.

 

[nqth]

Close ups close ups:-)