Jacquemus F/W 2018.19 Paris

[StockholmFW]

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[StockholmFW]

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[helmutnotdead]

I thought I was looking the previous Spring Summer collection.

Underwhelming at best.

This is not bad at any point of view and there are some espectacular pieces but in my eyes it's boring AF. He succeed last season because he stepped up his game and it really worked. Fresh, sexy, very confortable and undeniably desirable. The collection looked the same but with knitwear, wool and leather. I can't see any next step here. On the other hand I admit that his castings ARE TERRIFIC. He got a really good eye for girls. They made those clothes worth it.

A little bit lazy, as almost everything he does. Such a pity, I was excited for first time about this brand six months before.

(THANKS YOU BERNARD ARNAULT for not give him Céline).

 

[StockholmFW]

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[badgalcrush]

It's funny ...Some looks could be totally pictured as some looks for a Celine debuts collection

 

[StockholmFW]

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[GERGIN]

I’m honestly glad he didn’t stray too far from his other spectacular collection and I’m totally fine with summer clothes for winter seasons lol!

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Zara.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

This guy just doesn’t have the range. His vocabulary is very limited. Last season was his best show so far, with that being said, I wasn’t expecting him to top that.

 

[jeanclaude]

Looks like a Céline audition sample collection. Very basic and generic.

His first collections were more experimental and "avant-gardish". As time passes by, he is going more and more commercial and boring.
I know he was influenced by working for Comme des Garçons at the beginning of his brand...but with this collection seems as if he was working for the forever Céline-obsessed Victoria Beckham.

 

[maxlinden]

Another beautiful collection! I wouldn't mind seeing this direction an extra season.

 

[Nocturnal]

Why is he so popular? Everything looks like Zara. There is no creativity, interesting tailoring, vision. Its like young designer from New York trying to be Phoebe Philo.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Why is he so popular? Everything looks like Zara. There is no creativity, interesting tailoring, vision. Its like young designer from New York trying to be Phoebe Philo.

Because he's hot as hell. Plain and simple: my friends don't know anything about his work or background but they love him because he's stunning. And people and press love a very handsome young man trying to do something "different" (yes, we all know that he is such a copycat).

 

[Growl]

I was just backstage at the show, I will say this, Simon is extremely passionate and hard-working and his success comes down to how much he's really putting into his work. Never seen anything like that from a designer backstage, making sure everything looked perfect, getting models hyped up, being appreciative to everyone.

 

[orchidee]

I enjoy the general ethos of this, but he needs to push it a little more. He certainly excels at this easy and sexy style, so he would do well to explore within this genre. I've only really liked his last three collections, as the ones preceding them were kind of a mess IMO.

 

[disco54]

Its beautiful in a season of tackiness and ridiculous shoulder pads , Im living for this

 

[Lola701]

Very very beautiful collection but above all, very necessary collection at this stage for Simon.

What some of you guys don’t understand is that not every fashion show has to be about wild ideas or something like that. It’s good to sometimes put things back to perspective.

Jacquemus is independent and in terms of price range, it’s contemporary... So you can hardly find pieces that cost more than 1000€ from him. The challenge for him at this stage is to create clothes that are easy, practical, wearable in a woman everyday life while still being coherent to his aesthetic. And he succeeded!

This looks like a Jacquemus show and it shows a great level of maturity from him...Something that we don’t find in a lot of young designers. I still don’t know who is the Off White, Christopher Kane or Mary Katranzou woman (and I still don’t think they know themselves) but I know who is the Jacquemus woman. And the fact that he can express it with just a knitted top and a draped skirt is a great achievement.

The biggest challenge also for him was to upgrade the construction and i’m sorry, in order to be taken seriously, there’s nothing better than simple, boring and plain tailoring. The shoulders and lapels are great!

Yes it’s not groundbreaking but it is good enough. I love it. His woman is confident, cosmopolitan and relatable.

Very very good collection! Now he needs to work even more on his construction. He has a great potential.

Ps: He worked in the retail for CDG. Let’s not pretend that he was in anyone’s team lol

 

[Marc10]

Because he's hot as hell. Plain and simple: my friends don't know anything about his work or background but they love him because he's stunning. And people and press love a very handsome young man trying to do something "different" (yes, we all know that he is such a copycat).

I'm sorry but that's such a demeaning and silly thing to say. Yes he's handsome but what does that matter at the end of the day? No one is gonna buy clothes or give a collection good reviews because the designer is attractive, that's ridiculous. I was one of his biggest critics here in the beginning of his career, thought his stuff was pretentious and unremarkable. Then S/S 17 came with a complete breakthrough, one of my favorite collections in years. And the following two followed through, now he feels like a mature designer with an incredibly strong vision and focus of what his brand is and who his woman is. A real breath of fresh air in Paris. His success story is entirely credited to his work and evolution.

Anyway, love this! It was really smart for him to build this on from last season which was his most realized collection yet. It has that same breezy, womanly, simple and sexy aura, but unlike last season where the woman was at the beachfront having wild fun, this season she's back in the big city. Great day clothes for the active life, a bit more elegant and put together, great colors and accessories. It's definitely a good expansion of the vocabulary of the brand while still being familiar to the new costumers.

And YAY at the the menswear announcement! Can't wait!

 

[jeanclaude]

Ps: He worked in the retail for CDG. Let’s not pretend that he was in anyone’s team lol

I know he was a sales assistant at CDG shop; but if you see his early collections you can tell CDG influences are there. No matter the fact he wasn´t a designer from Rei´s staff.

Anyway, I compare his firsts collections to the last two ones...and it seems like two different designers. I found more interesting his early work, there were some interesting pieces and concepts.

But I know this is a business. He needs money to stay afloat, that´s a big reason for a commercial collection like this one.