Jacquemus F/W 2025.25 Versailles | the Fashion Spot

Jacquemus F/W 2025.25 Versailles

Finally, he woke up.
A good collection. Very focused and very achieved I would say. Still very much on the wave of the previous one but this is a good collection.
I can sometimes be very critical of him but when he is doing good, it would be intellectually dishonest from me to trash it just because it’s by him.
And he is finally nailing the fabrics and cut thing. I don’t know if the L’Oreal money but the cotton was looking great, so was the linen and the jersey.

I really love the dress on Andreaa! And those huge white tunics in cotton. There was a sense of comfort and ease in this collection, despite sometimes the insane amount of cotton layered.

Keep up the good work Simon!

It’s true nevertheless that going all the way to Versailles for that seems a bit excessive but I guess there’s a great after party!
 
No comment on the collection but hey it's queen Natalia walking.

Smh, this is what I imagine Sarah Burton will cook up for her next Givenchy collection, it's so "her" in a way.
 
lost his magic to me:( his strong point was young girl next door who is kind of basic cool, but not too cool. It was not for critics, but for the clients. Then he listened to the critics, and now it’s a collection is for no one. It looks like random iteration of Jil sander / random brand doing white and beige and navy pieces that for department stores. More mature clients don’t need it from this brand, and younger client can’t wear it.
 
Dying for Alex Consani’s dress! It’s an ok collection, you can definitely see a lot of improvement from, for example, the past Versailles show, but I miss the fun of the first shows, now he seems to take himself too seriously as a couturier lol
 
I think the location and the soundtrack stole most of the beauty, but there were some nice looks in there.

Unfortunately a lot of awkward stiffness too, in both the clothes and the models.

It does also feel like there is a bit of a disconnect between the show's grandiose production / couture-esque silhouettes and the realities of his accessible luxury commercial business.

Who is the customer for these clothes?
 
I'm still getting to know his work (again, I was in hibernation when he happened), but this is surely some of his better work. The silhouette works with the cottons so well, especially for summer. I love the subtle cultural references - it's part French peasant, part Civil War nurse.

Still, he seems partial to a bit of STUNTERY. I hate the assless full skirts - I don't think it's inventive or flattering. And the lego-shoebox-mens bags are just silly.
 
It does also feel like there is a bit of a disconnect between the show's grandiose production / couture-esque silhouettes and the realities of his accessible luxury commercial business.

Who is the customer for these clothes?
He has stores now. Not depending totally on wholesale actually allows him to be a little bit more adventurous.
There were still a lot of sexy dresses and the offering will be again more important.
This is technically his summer/fall collection.
 
I really love the dress on Andreaa! And those huge white tunics in cotton. There was a sense of comfort and ease in this collection, despite sometimes the insane amount of cotton layered.
Me too! 🫢

It's a gorgeous collection, I can't help but love it, I just go weak for this silhouette and airiness.. reminiscent of Dries' Summer 2005 collection but much lighter and a bit quirky in the back. One thing that has consistently deterred me from enjoying his work is that it always looks like he lost interest shortly after starting working on a look and just called it a day and patched it all up with something he pulled last minute from pinterest.. that unfinished/lazy/trendy part is missing from this.. it feels like he actually edited and discriminated and polished and edited again.. could've done more lol, but this is a lot of progress in my eyes and it has an identity, it looks very Jacquemus and not because it looks cheap/ill-fitted.
 
I am pleasantly surprised. He demonstrates disciplined tailoring and a certain Mediterranean romance. The collection reveals his problem with construction. Minor structural adjustments would significantly improve some of the looks and provide purity to the silhouettes.
 
Could have been his audition for the Dior position...
I don't hate it, I appreciate the elevation in tailoring and construction, even if it's far from perfect.
And, for those asking who is his customer, I would say all my girl friends are packing right now at least one Jacquemus look for their summer vacations ; those are perfect "easy" summer dresses for dressy dinners at 30° C.
They all also pack a pair of his sneakers (plus YSL sunglasses and the wedges, and YSL bangles).
 

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