Jacquemus S/S 2024 Saint-Paul-de-Vence

[Benn98]

Are we going to talk about the photocall? The most obnoxious thing I've seen in fashion in a while.

 

[zoom]

I mean..this is obviously his grab (failed or otherwise) for the Givenchy post, no?

 

[LadyJunon]

I think that it would also be interesting to mention that Jacquemus has halted their collaboration with Puig (owner of Dries Van Noten, Jean Paul Gautier, Rabanne and Nina Ricci).

Jacquemus originally sold a 10% stake to Puig back in 2019 with plans of them creating a beauty line that would be launched in 2022. The project never materialised with Jacquemus buying back the stake in last year.

It's a shame considering that it could've been a accessible cash cow for the brand. It's understandable, considering that Jacquemus is very adamant about his independency and the numerous growing pains the brand had to deal with throughout 2022.

 

[Lola701]

I think that it would also be interesting to mention that Jacquemus has halted their collaboration with Puig (owner of Dries Van Noten, Jean Paul Gautier, Rabanne and Nina Ricci).

Jacquemus originally sold a 10% stake to Puig back in 2019 with plans of them creating a beauty line that would be launched in 2022. The project never materialised with Jacquemus buying back the stake in last year.

It's a shame considering that it could've been a accessible cash cow for the brand. It's understandable, considering that Jacquemus is very adamant about his independency and the numerous growing pains the brand had to deal with throughout 2022.

I think it’s clever for him to do that now…
Maybe he should refocus on the brand, the message and it fashion relevancy but also the perceived quality. I don’t know where are his factories but he needs to fix that first.
It’s obvious that a Jacquemus parfum would be a great success but he should indeed develop his brand, have a few stores and maybe have a kind of controlled distribution of his first fragrance, which means his own shops/pop-up shops and e-commerce.

 

[vetements]

I think it’s clever for him to do that now…
Maybe he should refocus on the brand, the message and it fashion relevancy but also the perceived quality. I don’t know where are his factories but he needs to fix that first.
It’s obvious that a Jacquemus parfum would be a great success but he should indeed develop his brand, have a few stores and maybe have a kind of controlled distribution of his first fragrance, which means his own shops/pop-up shops and e-commerce.

his tee shirts are made in Portugal normally, jackets/ vests/ outerwear are made in Bulgaria, Moldova and Romania mostly.

Not sure if made in these countries equate to a poor quality, but from my experience whilst made in Italy/ France may not always mean quality, the chances of made in the eastern european countries almost always meant a compromise in quality unfortunately (no offence to people from those countries, of course).

Back to the man, Whist I dont think his designs are anything to shout about, I do think he is an excellent marketeer and selling a particular Southern France-ish lifestyle and he is pretty successful at that, like it or not. And lets admit it, the general consumers dont think so much.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

Can they please stop trying to make Emily Ratface a thing, please?

Can we stop using personal insults when critiquing fashion and those that work in it. I believe there's a better way to say that you don't like a particular model for a job than resulting to cyber bullying.
That said, the collection is a lot better than last seasons disaster where some of the pants looked diaper like. He seems unable to control his proportions with his collections filled with unflattering shapes like the grey jumpsuit the male model is wearing. There are a couple of chic items here fortunately.

 

[dodencebt]

The WWD review on this collection is interesting. Simon expresses his desire to elevate Jacquemus to a more upscale luxury positioning without alienating his Chiquito/Bambino/Bucket Hat customers. He also plans on opening permanent stores outside of France. He already has a permanent location on Avenue Montaigne.

Source: WWD

I think this strategy could fail miserably. The product is nowhere near luxury, and a large part of Jacquemus selling ready-to-wear is because of its contemporary price point. I cannot imagine those 400 EUR shirts (which is already too expensive, they're always 50% off at the end of the season) being 700-800 EUR and people still buying them, it's absurd.

 

[Lola701]

his tee shirts are made in Portugal normally, jackets/ vests/ outerwear are made in Bulgaria, Moldova and Romania mostly.

Not sure if made in these countries equate to a poor quality, but from my experience whilst made in Italy/ France may not always mean quality, the chances of made in the eastern european countries almost always meant a compromise in quality unfortunately (no offence to people from those countries, of course).

Back to the man, Whist I dont think his designs are anything to shout about, I do think he is an excellent marketeer and selling a particular Southern France-ish lifestyle and he is pretty successful at that, like it or not. And lets admit it, the general consumers dont think so much.

Portugal has a great quality compared to Eastern Europe indeed.
Ami is mainly produced in Portugal for example.
He should centralize his production there or why not have a partnership similar to the Dsquared2/Staff International one. Consistency will be the key to the credibility of his brand.

Yes, he has really achieved the South Of France thing. When I see his work, despite the influences, it’s very Jacquemus…That on going feeling of summer. It’s always consistent in terms of Art Direction and even casting. With him sometimes you don’t know the limit between authenticity and manufactured things. He plays that naïveté really well but what he has achieved since La Bomba is quite impressive.

He is someone who understands and who studied the business of fashion.

I think this strategy could fail miserably. The product is nowhere near luxury, and a large part of Jacquemus selling ready-to-wear is because of its contemporary price point. I cannot imagine those 400 EUR shirts (which is already too expensive, they're always 50% off at the end of the season) being 700-800 EUR and people still buying them, it's absurd.

I think it can work if he fixes things in terms of quality. Quality will be the main thing for him.

I think his knitwear is fine. His brand can be aspirational. The people who are buying Jacquemus, his core customer base, cannot afford Hermes and Chanel anyway.

I think about Ami by Alexandre Mattuissi that has gone up on prices but because he is in control of his quality, people are willing the spend the price for a coat or a leather piece.

Jacquemus has an intention but he needs more than an intention.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I have travelled both Portugal and Eastern European countries like Hungary, Slovenia and Romania to see garment manufacturers in the past with the conclusion that it's hard to generalize where and where not quality is being had. Dries Van Noten did a majority of his menswear for a time in Slovenia to the highest quality degree and while I see a lot of these products being made in Northern Africa, the quality is still up there, which leads me to believe brands like them with a well-oiled infrastructure of quality control / product management take their time to elevate such moves, put painstaking control on their product and will not jeopardize their good name for the sake of a quick raise in product margin.

Alexandre started out similarly bringing this knowledge of manufacturing in Portugal and East Europe to when he started out his brand and it's really the only way you can build a contemporary-priced brand with an honest, good product without reaching the price level of luxury brands. While he has the eye and the pragmatism to know he can raise the prices on the more laborous pieces in his collection like the tailoring, I think he understands well that his brands success comes from the accessibility of his brand.

With Jacquemus, I think we're clear that the objective of this brand has never been to serve down-to-earth, timeless, pragmatic clothes like AMI. The origin is womenswear and the selling point is lifestyle and story telling so the customer wants the fantasy and in the end for a lot of his audience, the way they buy into that is a tiny handbag or an oversized bucket hat as a memento of a show or an attachment to him and the lifestyle he is known for - I feel there will be a point of saturation with that for when the customer has grown up and moved on to another place in their lives. It doesn't seem clear to me the that this man or women will wear his more 'designed' and increasingly expensive clothes in their everyday lives.

 

[tourbillions]

instant best seller if he serves perfume in the mini handbag shaped bottle

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Was just doomscrolling instagram and came across some "reviews"... The idea of fashion has really been co-opted and morphed into a new monster. I know womp womp short attention span but it's legitimately like a live organism on a base level. People don't need anything but a little shock or jolt from the fashion taser to be turned on like Frankenstein's monster for 5 minutes, enough time to make "content" about said jolt saying it gave them life, giving Dr. Frankenstein a high enough speculative value for allowing to continue the recharging of the taser in the time the monster goes back to being limp. And it just continues in a cycle that doesn't produce anything besides waste and money (if even real money at this point). Watching people call those stacked shoes "iconic" like they are excited purely from the firing of neurons in their brain from seeing something not "normal" made me feel like a scientist observing a new lab created life form struggling to develop a method of having thoughts that can justify and validate their sentience.

 

[RaisinBoy]

He needs to understand that we can all see how ill fitting his clothes are. It’s embarrassing

 

[Tchi]

The only really good part about this show were the rounded coats and jackets, especially the beige coat on Hadid. Watching the video on the official website was way too tedious. The last ⅔ of the show was random shots of models walking around the museum, followed by an extremely long finale and credits scene.

What, no, they are an insult to any atelier modéliste

 

[jeanclaude]

He needs to understand that we can all see how ill fitting his clothes are. It’s embarrassing

The problem is he does not care...

 

[RaisinBoy]

A lot of BV, a bit of The Row and Miu Miu… this brand is our French Proenza Schouler.

Exactly! Though Proenza is even worse.

 

[LadyJunon]

Exactly! Though Proenza is even worse.

At least Proenza doesn't cover their lack of skills with grandiose marketing stunts.

 

[Mathewthew]

saw someone from CN social media is saying the people from Jacquemus are going to Givenchy...

 

[LadyJunon]

saw someone from CN social media is saying the people from Jacquemus are going to Givenchy...

It's because he posted a picture of HdG's old office. It's not true though.

 

[Mathewthew]

It's because he posted a picture of HdG's old office. It's not true though.

Ops sorry, what I'm saying is the source said some of the people from jacquemus is already starting to work in Givenchy.

 

[RaisinBoy]

At least Proenza doesn't cover their lack of skills with grandiose marketing stunts. Well, that’s just because they have less money