Jacquemus S/S 2025 Paris

I cannot post it but check WWD ig for the finale…i don’t know what to say…
 
There seems to be a lot going on and a lot of technical “discrepancies” I guess you would call them in the execution

That dress on Adriana Lima is not what he thinks it is. He is designing for social media moments without any care for how these clothes will work in a woman or man’s wardrobe.

His clothes look crunchy, stiff and tortured.
 
^ this is pure branding and marketing. It is about him repositioning his brand (again) because now he is short on money.

He went from ´oh I love squares, rectangles and circles’ collections to a hit one with sexy polyester dresses and jacquito bags and now he has seen that people such as the Weithermers and the Bettancourt putting millions in the Row.

So here he is with his fake intimate sleek bourgeois collection with OMG SHOCKER 50 guests only. I really can’t stand him.

If he wants money he can sell feet pics on onlyfans.
 
From what I’m seeing, very Valentino by PPP and Alaia by Pieter.
Somehow, this ties a little bit to his historic work. When you look at Les Sentons de Provence and those collections, those silhouettes are quite reminiscent of that.

I’m still having a hard time with his side décolletés and how extreme they are but at the same time I don’t think having Adriana in them really works anyway.

Overall. It’s a little bit better than usual in a sense that it looks like he made an effort but I’m not terribly convinced yet.
I used to be a huge supporter of Simon but he has been very unfocused!

I wonder how Pieter feels…
What confuses me is that in reality his rtw is SO difficult to wear unless you’re a 5”2 size zero….. who is he creating for?!
Thankfully the brand doesn’t limit itself to runway stuff.
But his stuff has never been « easy to wear ». Ready to wear doesn’t mean easy to wear but there are pieces and accessories that are wearable. I think the most spectacular pieces will have a commercial version but will also look great in stores.

This is his first runway show since the opening of his stores internationally so maybe he is aiming at others things. Some Redcarpet numbers or « Couture » options.

The feathers dress won’t be produced except if made to order I suspect.
The rest of the shapes is classic Jacquemus.
 
This man is literally pouring his money into every single departments of his company except for his atelier. Like babe you can’t pretend to upscale your brand while basic tailoring and good construction are nonexistent in your clothes.

That coat makes Christy look like she has a hunched back. When a garment give you a bad posture, it’s a no from me.
 

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