Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture F/W 2024.25 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[thiago:)]

Hmm... not sure how to feel about this collection yet. It started out really well then it felt like a Courrèges redux.

Who styled this? They should really get rid of that obnoxious pocket. That shouldn't be his signature, lol.

I was really rooting for him but it left me a bit cold. I appreciate the fact that he wasn't as obvious as others from this collab experience.

 

[LadyJunon]

I'm wigless. That's all I have to say.

 

[MagFan]

Who styled this?

Marie Chaix

 

[tourbillions]

annoying music. was good as a rtw jpg x courreges runway but not couture.

 

[lookatme]

Everything hits the same note these days. Nothing truly distinctive from anyone anymore.

 

[Empress of Dress]

As each model came I grew more and more in love with this detail driven collection.

 

[Phuel]

Absolutely @lookatme… Stuck on the same one-note from beginning to end LOL Very pleasant, proper and polite silhouettes. And all familiar but not so much familiarity to Gaultier. I see Montana, Alaia, Richard Tyler, Rick Owens— but just a glimmer, a glimpse, a whiff of Gaultier, in the leather bustier that morphs into a draping jacket that falls off the shoulder; the gown that morphs into a trench; the gown with the jacket that ties to the skirt like a peplum… They’re the only pulses in an otherwise polite monotonous droning. Much better than Simone’s tiresome parade of corseted doll dresses. Eh.

 

[Uppmuntra]

Im surprised with the comments above. I absolutely loved it!

 

[Alquimista]

Shxt I knew he had it in him. Wow

 

[Kennnnn]

I agree with @thiago:) - I don't quite know what to make of it.

Some of it is quite chic, but I feel like I've seen so much of this elsewhere before (Hussein Chalayan, Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens, even Versace). Some of it is quite dated, especially the short dresses (very mid-2010s Mugler).

It's silly to put nose rings and chains on the models, just to draw some connection to Gaultier.

 

[Thefrenchy]

The audience literally suffocating in this heat

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

This is Mugler by Nicola Formichetti or Mugler from 4 years ago.
I am sure Bella Hadid wore something similar at some point during the COVID days

Puig should have invited Dries to do this couture with JPG, that way they would have had a week of non-stop press in Paris, a men’s ready-to-wear and women’s couture... so many talking points… but they aren't that smart or deep

It's time to have Hussein Chalayan or Olivier Theyskens back, designers with real vision

Much better than Simone’s tiresome parade of corseted doll dresses. Eh.

What she did was mostly an audition for Givenchy Ballgowns and Dior's strapless new look gowns lol her ambition was out on display

 

[bc collector]

For me this pairs up with Haider's collection for JPG, if anything a bit on the bloodless side. But I can't but admire those who try to make couture look modern, to do away with the taste for frills and embellishment most people (and clients) associate with this craft, because it's like going against the grain of a dyed-in-the-wool perception.
After the likes of Schiaparelli and Thom Browne (and don't even let me get into Chanel) this feels like a breath of fresh air.

 

[bennyboy]

please tell me that I'm entering the wrong thread, this is ＮＯＴ Jean Paul Gaultier

 

[Lola701]

This made think of that one hit wonder that was Hakaan…
I think it’s a Nicolas Di Felice collection for Gaultier. It has elements of Gaultier but it’s infused by everything else that has nourished his aesthetic.

I’m interested in fresh ways to approach Couture.

It’s really interesting because he has distanced himself a little bit of all the current tropes of Couture such as heavy embellishments.

I think the gimmick of the hand on the pocket works here because it’s an irreverent response to the hand on the waist that is very Couture.

I have to say that unfortunately, while it’s very modern and quite good, it’s still conventional in many ways: the column dresses, the snatched look, the very proper color palette…etc.

 

[SLynn]

This was a good show. The designs were very interesting and I enjoyed the fabrics and face coverings however as a Gauthier Girl. It wasn't quite Jean Paul.

 

[jeremydante]

I LOOOOOOOOVED IT.
I could've used a bit more drama, maybe. But, the sense of restraint. The color story, the concept of under garments and the delicate use of coverage and exposure- what a balance. Obsessed with the runway soundtrack. Wasn't sure if the center staging was going to erupt into a pool of water or what. Loved that the collection showed dark to light, then for the finale went in reverse to re-emphasize the muted use of color. Very beautiful. So modern, very chic, young and cool. Great show.

 

[tourbillions]

can he invite tisci next, wanna see that

 

[LadyJunon]

My favourite collection of the week.

The collection was so sleek and elegant. The reduced colour palettes, the leather, the hook-and-eyes, the pockets, the overall rigour and willowy silhouettes, I love it. It's like Haider Ackermann's outing, where it isn't archetypal Gaultier, but the collection definitely nods towards Gaultier's more "brutalist" side. He cited AW86, AW89, SS99 as his inspirations, which I do see throughout the collection.

The reception on social media is mostly negative, but I excepted that the second he was announced. Di Felice is a minimalist or in his words, "sans chi-chi". He doesn't do pastel-tones, tulle frills and heavy embellishement, things that are heavily associated with couture. Ironically, they compared his collection to Rocha's. That said, I really appreciate that he didn't bend to couture tropes and did something true to himself instead.